Brothers and designer duo Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra are signing off 2023 on a global high. Fresh from their showing at the United Nations COP28 Sustainable Fashion Summit 2023, held at Al Wasl Plaza, Dubai, on December 6, the ‘only designers from India’ to do so, Shantanu, CEO and co-founder, Maison Shantnu & Nikhil and Nikhil, chief design officer and co-founder, Maison Shantnu & Nikhil, tell t2 about their experience, the intriguing theme and how sustainability “has now evolved into a fundamental aspect of design and production”.
Congratulations! How did the showcase go?
Thank you so much for the wishes! The showcase went very well, as our designs and our collection ‘Indra’ overall were very well-received on a global platform. For us, it is not only taking our brand Shantnu & Nikhil to the Middle East but taking Indian couture, and fashion, to the global forefront, as well as the rich cultural heritage depicted by the intricate weaves of the Indian artisans. So, this was an added layer of responsibility that the invite to this prestigious event of the Sustainable Fashion Summit opened up for us.
‘Indra’ looked quite majestic and it is very interesting how you have woven in Indian mythology with the current bane of global warming. How did you arrive at the concept?
The reason behind choosing ‘Indra’ was that the convention was centred around climate change and in India, when we talk about the whole ecosystem of water and climate change, we tend to draw mythological references from our deities. Lord Indra being the God of rain, storms and water in general, supported the entire concept of climate change and we wanted to depict our plea through this collection. So this is how it all fits in seamlessly and ‘Indra’ came to life!
Tell us a bit about the symbolic surface textures and embroidery…
‘Indra’ pays homage to the rain deity in Indian mythology, depicting the majestic grandeur and vitality of Lord Indra amidst the challenges posed by the climate crisis. The designs illustrate the legendary drought personified by the assumed demonic force, ‘Vritra’, with symbolic cracks signifying the looming threat of water scarcity. The collection’s earthy colour palette conveys the severity of the drought, while the designs symbolically represent the environmental impact of this force.
The narrative unfolds into a swift metamorphosis towards water, symbolising the presence of Lord Indra. Free-flowing drapes and shimmering silk, characteristic of Shantnu & Nikhil’s signature style, emulate the tranquillity of water. The drapes and tassels embody the rhythmic flow of life-sustaining streams, capturing the dynamic essence of water. Additionally, glimpses of divine intervention, manifested as rain and thunder through metallic elements, aim to restore the balance of life. The use of metallic detailing metaphorically symbolises human resilience and its transformative potential, highlighting its positive impact on the environment.
The show was an all-white one. What did you have in mind?
The whole collection is in white as we have used fabrics in their raw form. We wanted to refrain from dyeing the fabric and increasing the carbon footprint, and in turn the water wastage for the collection. That’s why all the silhouettes are ivory. It depicts serenity and the whole idea behind cherishing nature’s forces.
Sustainability gained momentum during the pandemic. What has changed since then?
The pandemic has served as a profound catalyst for the fashion industry, propelling sustainability to the forefront and reshaping the ethos of Indian couture. Initially seen as a trend, sustainability has now evolved into a fundamental aspect of design and production. The most significant change lies in the heightened awareness and consciousness among consumers. It has evoked thought and introspection and the need for a collective realisation of the environmental and social impact of fashion. As Indian couture designers, we have observed a discernible shift in consumer preferences, with an increasing demand for ethically produced, eco-friendly couture. The emphasis on craftsmanship has gained prominence, with a return to traditional techniques and Indian handwoven finery. Consumers are recognising the value of pieces that endure beyond fleeting trends, reinforcing the timeless appeal of Indian couture. This shift aligns seamlessly with the sustainable ethos, emphasising quality over quantity. In terms of design, there’s a paradigm shift towards versatility and longevity. Indian ensembles, specifically bridalwear, are now envisioned as enduring investments, transcending seasons and embodying timeless elegance.
This departure from fast fashion aligns with the principles of sustainability, encouraging a more mindful approach to consumption. Overall, the pandemic has not only accelerated the integration of sustainability into the DNA of Indian couture but has also instigated a broader cultural shift towards conscious consumerism.
How has the brand, over the years, taken steps to ensure maximum sustainability?
We at Maison Shantnu & Nikhil have tried to do our bit and ensure maximum sustainability. We have a buy-back campaign for the proud owners of Shantnu & Nikhil couture as they can exchange their old outfits for credit values that they can use on their next purchase. This not only drives responsible consumerism but also ensures controlled production at our brand’s end. We have also been a part of Ellen MacArthur’s Circular Design for Fashion Book in 2022. These initiatives ensure that our production is circular and the inventory is not hoarded and wastage is minimal.
Sustainability has to be a consolidated effort. What needs to be done so that the dialogue doesn’t die down?
We believe that fostering a collective and sustained effort is paramount for the endurance and growth of the sustainability dialogue within the fashion industry. Collaborative efforts among designers and industry associations can contribute to a broader understanding of sustainable practices. Strategic collaborations among designers, brands, and suppliers can play a crucial role in creating a sustainable supply chain. By collectively sourcing eco-friendly materials, implementing ethical production methods, and sharing best practices, the fashion community can set higher standards and encourage the adoption of sustainable principles across the industry. Lastly, innovation and technology should be harnessed to drive sustainability forward. Embracing advancements in eco-friendly fabrics, sustainable production techniques, and circular fashion models can propel the industry towards a more environmentally conscious future. To ensure the sustainability dialogue doesn’t wane, it is crucial to view it as a relay race rather than a sprint.
Finally, the brand has had a great 2023. What have been your takeaways and what can you share with us about what to expect in 2024?
Thank you! Our key takeaway from 2023 has definitely been that it’s never too late to participate in the global sustainability dialogue, and it can be done creatively in our own unique way, be it showcasing at the COP28 Sustainable Fashion Summit or speaking on a public platform like the India Global Forum Middle East and Africa. When it comes to our pipeline for 2024, we definitely have an exciting one. We will be launching the third edition of SNCC, that is Shantnu Nikhil Cricket Club and will also be gearing up for our milestone anniversary next year.