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Class food comfort

These three French dishes — simplified for the Indian kitchen — will make you feel warm in winter

Natasha Celmi Published 16.01.22, 03:05 AM

French gastronomy is all about finesse and rich flavour. A sophisticated amalgamation of culture, tradition, fine ingredients and precision. An absolute delight for my tastebuds but surely not my favourite cuisine to cook at home. Rather tiresome, in my opinion. First, you must pronounce the fancy tongue-twisting names of the dishes right, then take your time to slow-cook the casseroles and sauces, which are made up of endless steps and furthermore, spend more time on that ‘pretty as a picture’ presentation. Sounds exhausting?

Well, perceptions are there to be changed and that is exactly what happened with mine. If you have seen the movie Julie & Julia, you will understand why, after watching this delightful culinary film, I was intrigued by the French kitchen. The famous Julia Child changed the world of cooking with her approachable take on French cuisine. “With enough butter, anything is good,” said the inspirational chef in her popular TV shows and cookbooks.

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Yes, generous dollops of butter is one of the secrets to creating flavour in classic French dishes. Add to that, the humble onion which is the backbone of the French pantry — the exquisite French onion soup is a testimony of the transformational magic of slow-cooked onions. Garlic, herbs, wine, fresh cream and a good stock and voila, you have yourself a delectable French-inspired dinner.

Here are a few classic French dishes that I have simplified in my Indian kitchen — authentic flavours, less fuss and local ingredients. Enjoy an umami-filled Coq Au Vin (chicken in red wine), a creamy yet light Pomme Dauphinoise (potato gratin) and a delish garlic bread. Perfect comfort dinner for this time of the year.

Bon appetit!

Pull-Apart Garlic Bread

There is something so satisfying about good garlic bread and no one makes garlic and butter more glamorous than the French. This ‘pull apart’ version is crusty outside and moist and soft inside. For the kids, I go all out with the cheese but for adult diners, I prefer a lighter version without the cheese and some chilli. You can add a tablespoon of pesto in the garlic butter for an Italian touch!

Serves four to six.

Ingredients

• Baguette or any crusty long bread: 1

• Garlic: 6 cloves, minced

• Salted butter: 3tbsp at room temperature

• Cheddar or mozzarella (optional): ½ cup grated

• Parsley: ¼ cup, chopped

• Chilli flakes (optional)

Method

• Slice the baguette into half vertically. Make slits of ½” thickness in each baguette, keeping a little joint at the bottom.

• Make the garlic butter by combining the garlic, butter and parsley. Add chilli flakes if you like.

• Spread the butter with a knife inside each crevice and then add some grated cheese.

• Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cover the whole baguette in foil and bake for 5-6 minutes. Open the top of the foil and bake uncovered for another 5 minutes to crisp up the bread. Serve warm, letting each guest pull apart their slices.

• Make ahead: Assemble and pre-bake the bread for half the time. When ready to serve, place in a preheated oven till hot and well browned. Freeze the whole prepared baguette and bake from frozen after a long day.

Pomme Dauphinoise (French Potatoes Au Gratin)

An indulgent dish from the Dauphine region in south-eastern France. The humble potato is baked together with garlic, cream and butter using the gratin technique. This is a popular favourite on our dining table as the kids love the creamy cheesy texture. Serve this gratin as an accompaniment with any vegetarian or meat dish on a cold winter day.

Serves six.

Ingredients

• Potatoes: 1kg

• Olive oil: 1tsp

• Fresh rosemary (optional): 2tsp

• Large onion: 1, thinly sliced

• Garlic: 3 cloves, minced

• Melted butter: 2tbsp

• Fresh cream: 1½ cups

• Salt: To taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• Chilli flakes: To taste

• Cheddar cheese: 1 cup, grated

Method

• Heat a small frying pan and add the olive oil. Add the rosemary along with the onions and cook for 2-3 minutes till translucent and soft. Keep aside.

• Combine the melted butter, cream, garlic, 2tsp salt and a good grind of black pepper.

• Slice the potatoes into 3mm thick discs. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Add 1tsp of salt and cook the sliced potatoes for 10 minutes to soften them halfway. Drain. Combine the potatoes with the onions.

• Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Grease the bottom and sides of an 8”x8” baking dish with a dollop of butter. Spread one-third of the potato-onion mix in a thin layer and pour over one-third of the cream mixture. Sprinkle one-third of the grated cheese over. Add some chilli flakes if you like.

• Repeat this process for a second and third layer but do not add any cheese on the final layer. Save the remaining cheese for the top crust later. Cover the dish with aluminium foil and bake for 40 minutes or until potatoes are soft in the middle (check with a knife).

• Remove the foil, sprinkle the remaining cheese on the top layer and bake uncovered for a further 10 minutes till you have a golden crust on top. Leave the dish to rest outside for 5-10 minutes.

• Make ahead: You can make this dish up to a day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Reheat the whole casserole covered with foil in the oven or reheat individual slices in the microwave.

Coq au vin (Chicken In Red Wine Sauce)

Rich and brimming with flavour, coq au vin is a hearty French stew of chicken braised in red wine with mushrooms. An exquisite one-pot dish that I make often on a Saturday night for a celebratory meal. The secret to a tender ‘fall off the bone’ meat is slow-cooking on a low flame so make sure you have adequate time in hand.

Serves: 4-6

Ingredients

• Chicken thighs, bone-in: 6

• Olive oil: 1tbsp

• Butter: 2tbsp

• Onion: 1, finely sliced

• Garlic: 2 cloves, minced

• Fresh thyme: 4 sprigs

• Tomato puree: 2tbsp

• Mushrooms: 1 cup, halved

• Red wine: 1 cup

• Chicken stock or water: 2 cups

• Salt: 2tsp or to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• Pearl onions (optional): 6-8

Method

• Wash the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Season well on all sides with salt and pepper and keep aside for 10 minutes.

• Heat a large heavy-bottom pot on a high flame and add the olive oil and 1tbsp butter. When the butter has melted, add the chicken pieces with each piece touching the hot base of the pan. Sear on each side for 2-3 minutes till well browned. Transfer the chicken pieces onto a plate.

• Reduce the flame to medium and add in the chopped onions and cook till translucent. Add in the garlic, fresh thyme, mushrooms and brown well, scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan. Add in the tomato puree along with 1tsp of salt and some black pepper. Let the mix cook on medium flame for 2-3 minutes so the entire mixture caramelises. Pour in the red wine and scrape the caramelised flavourful bits from the bottom of the pan. This is known as ‘deglazing’ the pan. Cook uncovered till the wine is reduced to about half. Add in the chicken stock or water and bring to a boil.

• Now, add in the browned chicken pieces along with any juices on the plate. Cover and simmer on low heat for 20 minutes, turning the chicken once in between. Add in the pearl onions and cook uncovered for another 10 minutes on a medium flame in order to thicken the sauce further. Turn the chicken a couple of times as the surface dries out.

• Add in the remaining butter for a glaze. Switch the heat off and let the dish rest for 5 minutes. Serve warm.

• Make ahead: The entire dish can be made up to a day earlier and reheated well on the stove. Leftovers are good till the next day and make a scrumptious sandwich filling.

• Go veg: Replace the chicken with whole mushrooms for a similar dish.

Natasha Celmi is a culinary specialist and food stylist based in Bangalore. Find her on Instagram @natashacelmi or follow her YouTube channel Natasha Celmi

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