It was Kerala’s second monsoon recently so I decided to finally indulge in some serious wellness. My destination was Prakriti Shakti, a naturopathy clinic as well as resort in the hills of Panchalimedu between Kottayam and the spice plantations of Thekkady. Since I had an awful red-eye flight, I was delighted to spend some time in Kochi at the stunningly beautiful Chittoor Kottaram where I played queen of my modest kingdom for a day. The property belongs to Lady Hamlyn who has partnered with the group CGH Earth. I have stayed at CGH properties before (always very authentic and very well run whether leisure, heritage or wellness — Brunton Boatyard, Coconut Lagoon in Kerala and Visalam in Chettinad) and so I was drawn to their foray into naturopathy and holistic healing.
The house is yours
Let me start with my first stop, Chittoor Kottaram. There are only three rooms in this 300-year-old former residence of the Cochin Maharaja. It was actually built to house his entourage that would cater to him when he visited his ancestral Krishna temple nearby. It has been immaculately restored and has just opened. Perfect as a very private base to explore real Kochi away from the touristy Fort Kochi and the hustle and bustle of downtown. Milton and a handful of non-intrusive staff look after the place and they introduced me to everything from the local fish boat ride (just me and the boatman) on the backwater, a private Bharatanatyam dance performance and a home-cooked sadhya lunch under the gazebo in the garden. I will not forget the utterly delicious Karimeen Pollichathu smothered in a caramelised onion masala, wrapped in banana leaf. Uncomplicated, tasty home cooking at its best. And whether you book one room or three, the house is yours.
(L-R) A local fish market near Chittoor Kottaram, A Krishna temple near Chittoor Kottaram
Chittoor Kottaram is today the personal home of Lady Hamlyn of The Helen Hamlyn Trust. Her husband Paul was a publishing tycoon in the UK and she is a formidable designer in her own right, specialising in the conservation of heritage and restoration. She has partnered with CGH Earth to bring the house back to life and present this unique offering to travellers seeking to experience the legacy ofan ancient kingdom.
The house has been renovated under her expert guidance and houses her private collection of Indian artefacts and works of art which lend a quiet sophistication to the spaces without changing the flavour and essence of its stately charm. For me, the view as you enter and see through to the verandah, facing the garden and onto the glistening backwaters, is simply magical
After a fruity breakfast the next morning (to prepare myself for the week of completely raw food which lay ahead), I began the three-and-ahalf-hour car journey south to Kottayam and then east into the hills, past the plantation mansions and fields of rubber trees, pineapple and spices to the lush hills of Panchalimedu and Prakriti Shakti, a clinic of natural medicine. They aim to awaken the healer within you and treat everything from weight management and obesity to neurological disorders, respiratory problems and hormonal issues. What attracted me to the concept ofnaturopathy is that there are absolutely no pills, potions or powders involved. Healing is done solely through a diet of raw food (no grains, pulses, sugar or oil either), treatments, yoga and rest. There’s Wi-Fi and although this is aclinic, there is no restriction on using your laptop or mobile in the privacy of your own room (although they do recommend a digital detox) or in some areas on the 16-acre estate.
I have been to other wellness retreats where no devices were allowed. This can be a bit hard. I liked Prakriti’s non-rigid approach. You don’t even need clothes since they provide you with two sets of kurta-pyjamas and rubber chappals and there’s a very efficient and free daily laundry service.
Reinventing one’s relationship with food
At the wellness centre the appetite is satiated with nuts and seeds added to dressings; the taste factor is provided with garlic, onion, some basic spices and herbs
Sadhya or banana-leaf meal
Let’s start with the food. Raw food is often perceived as unpalatable and puts people off simply because they can’t fathom how it is possible and they feel they will starve. The kitchen at Prakriti Shakti under Chef Joy is really a joy, believe me. So much so that when they offered me a vegetarian Kerala sadhya or banana-leaf meal to wish me farewell on my last day, I chose a coleslaw salad instead! The coleslaw in question is made with red and white cabbage and carrots thinly shredded and smothered in cashew nut, oil-free mayo which is so unbelievably delicious, I had a second helping.
Your appetite is satiated with nuts and seeds, either ground in sauces, added to dressings or made into crackers; the taste factor is provided with garlic, onion, some basic spices and herbs (all the herbs and most of the vegetables are grown on the premises or sourced from local farms), dehydrated bell peppers and fruit and a whole lot of creativity
Wheat pasta is replaced with zucchini shaped like fusilli or spaghetti, cauliflower pearls replace rice, dates replace regular sugar and coco nibs are used instead of conventional chocolate in brownies, ladoos and bites. They redefine the popular perception of eating raw by combining organic and fresh food with the fine taste and aesthetics of haute cuisine.
Presentation and crockery are simply lovely. This fireless kitchen is designed to create a raw food gourmet experience based on the principles of diet and fasting therapy in naturopathy. After your evening amla juice at 8pm, there’s nothing till your morning juice at 6.30am should you wish to have it or then after yoga at 8am. Juices are mainly vegetable-based so there’s no cloyingly sweet intake. You have breakfast at 10am based on fruit and nuts and then straight to a three-course dinner at 6pm with a tea and cookie break in between.
The author with Chef Joy
The diet is so diverse and the recipes so well thought through, that it reinvented my relationship with food. They have daily cookery classes and equip you with a bunch of 60 sexy recipes for a healthy eating regimen that will align your lifestyle with the naturopathic way of living or at least will start you on that journey once you leave. I am now making cashew mayo on a regular basis, crumble and healthy granola and having a sprout and raw vegetable lunch every day. That’s a good start, I think. I’m working on the wine and non-veg although that has drastically reduced. What I most loved about Prakriti is the staff — kitchen, service, doctors and therapists all on hand for any issue. There were people who found the diet a challenge and they dealt with that by making slight adjustments and with counselling. So nothing is written in stone and there is complete flexibility.
Setting realistic goals
Treatments are daily — one longish one and a shorter one in the afternoon, daily morning yoga, a reflexology walk, a pool and plenty of place to wander and walk if you find the time in what is quite a packed daily schedule. Although there are 20 beautiful rooms in shades of green and white (all overlooking the hills with either balconies or a small garden and all ecologically sound), they only ever accept 20-22 guests so that the doctors and therapists can conduct their one-on-one sessions without being rushed. Mud therapy, heliotherapy, banana leaf wraps, massages with coconut milk and honey (shades of Cleopatra maybe?); they only use elements of nature even for the amazing facial based on a coffee scrub with a coconut and orange peel mask.
Prakriti Shakti, a naturopathy clinic as well as resort in the hills of Panchalimedu
I am making some serious changes to my food and lifestyle after just seven days up in the Panchalimedu hills under the guidance of some well-trained doctors with lovely, calm, welcoming dispositions who aren’t afraid to share their mobile numbers. I saw smiling faces every day and was comfortable around people who set realistic goals, are happy to handhold you through the whole experience and are always accessible. I have been to other wellness retreats which were tooaustere for me despite the results. Apart from the wonderful food and treatments, it is the personal attention and amazing ratio of staff to guests which sets Prakriti Shakti apart and elevates it to a superior platform in the arena of wellness and healing. I am definitely going back next year and this time for 14 day.
Karen Anand is a culinary consultant, food writer and entrepreneur. In recent times her name has been synonymous with farmers’ markets. Follow her on www.facebook.com/ karenanand and on Instagram @ karen_anan