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Inside creative heads

These visionary minds are steering some of the leading global luxury fashion brands, carving success stories by adding their individual aesthetics to the design DNAs of the legendary labels. Shazia Ahmed takes a look

Shazia Ahmed Published 30.07.23, 07:44 AM
Miuccia Prada (Prada), DEMNA GVASALIA (BALENCIAGA)

Miuccia Prada (Prada), DEMNA GVASALIA (BALENCIAGA) Pictures: Getty Images

Who: Demna Gvasalia

Creative director of: Balenciaga

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Creative director of the brand since: October 2015

Earlier stints: Maison Margiela, Louis Vuitton

Strengths: The celebrated Demna is known for deconstructing and reimagining traditional silhouettes, pushing the boundaries of high fashion. Gvasalia’s unique vision and fearless experimentation with shapes and proportions have set him apart as a visionary creative director. His ability to infuse streetwear influences into luxury fashion has garnered him widespread acclaim, making Balenciaga a trailblazer in contemporary style. Gvasalia’s cutting-edge designs and boundary-pushing concepts have positioned him as one of the most influential creative directors of his generation.

Achievements: Demna’s exceptional creative direction at Balenciaga since October 2015 has been marked by numerous accolades and industry recognition. His innovative designs and radical approach to fashion earned him the prestigious CFDA International Award in 2016, a testament to his impact on the global fashion landscape. Under his leadership, Balenciaga received the Fashion Group International’s Fashion Star Award in 2018 for its revolutionary influence on contemporary fashion. Gvasalia’s iconic Triple S sneakers received the highly coveted Sneaker of the Year Award in 2017, cementing Balenciaga’s reputation as a trendsetting luxury brand.

Who: Miuccia Prada

Creative director of: Prada

Creative director of the brand since: 1978 (co-founder)

Strengths: Miuccia Prada’s strengths as the co-founder and creative director of Prada lie in her bold and intellectual design philosophy. Her visionary approach challenges conventional norms, defying trends and creating a unique style that merges art and fashion effortlessly. Prada’s exceptional skill lies in her ability to create avant-garde designs that resonate with individuals seeking intellectual depth in their fashion choices.

Achievements: Miuccia Prada’s groundbreaking designs earned her the esteemed International Award from the CFDA in 2004. Throughout her tenure, Prada has been honoured with numerous accolades, including the British Fashion Awards’ Outstanding Achievement Award in 2018, recognising her unparalleled influence and visionary contributions to fashion. Under her leadership, Prada’s commitment to innovation was evident when the brand won the Green Carpet Fashion Award in 2020 for its sustainability efforts.

Maria Grazia Chiuri (DIOR)

Maria Grazia Chiuri (DIOR)

Who: Maria Grazia Chiuri

Creative director of: Dior

Creative director of the brand since: July 8, 2016

Earlier stints: Valentino

Strengths: Maria Grazia Chiuri possesses notable skills in crafting feminine and contemporary designs that skillfully blend modernity with Dior’s rich heritage. Her visionary approach to design, coupled with her deep understanding of the brand’s legacy, allows her to create collections that resonate with both traditional and modern audiences. Chiuri’s unique strength lies in her ability to infuse powerful feminist messages into her work, using fashion as a platform for women’s empowerment. This distinct design concept has set her apart in the industry, making Dior a prominent voice for gender equality and inclusivity. Her keen eye for detail, impeccable craftsmanship, and dedication to showcasing the beauty of femininity have resulted in critically acclaimed collections that celebrate the essence of modern luxury.

Achievements: As the creative director of Dior, Maria has garnered numerous accolades and recognitions for her outstanding contributions to the fashion industry. Her empowering and feminist approach to design has earned her the prestigious CFDA International Award in 2017. Under her visionary leadership, Dior received widespread acclaim for the Spring-Summer 2017 collection, which featured the iconic ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ slogan T-shirt, making a profound statement about women’s rights and empowerment. Additionally, Chiuri’s keen eye for blending modernity with Dior’s heritage was celebrated when she received the British Fashion Awards’ Designer of the Year accolade in 2019.

Pharrell Williams (Louis Vuitton)

Pharrell Williams (Louis Vuitton)

Who: Pharrell Williams

Creative director of: Louis Vuitton

Creative director of the brand since: February 14, 2023

Strengths: As an influential figure in music and culture, Pharrell Williams brings a distinct and diverse skill set to his role as creative director at Louis Vuitton. His unique strength lies in his ability to bridge the worlds of music and fashion, infusing the brand’s designs with a fresh and innovative perspective. Williams’s unparalleled influence and flair for collaborating with artists, designers, and musicians have been key in establishing Louis Vuitton’s contemporary relevance and appeal to a broader audience. His work showcases a remarkable talent for merging streetwear aesthetics with luxury fashion, creating a captivating and sought-after style that sets him apart as a visionary creative director.

Achievements: As the creative director of Louis Vuitton, Williams made history by becoming the first-ever celebrity to hold this position, taking the reins in February 2023. His appointment marked a groundbreaking moment in the fashion world, as he brought his unparalleled influence in music and culture to the luxury fashion house. His artistic strengths lie in his ability to infuse fashion with the essence of music and culture, resulting in innovative and groundbreaking collections. Williams’s distinct fusion of streetwear aesthetics with luxury fashion sets him apart as a visionary, bridging the gap between art, music, and design.

Virginie Viard (Chanel), Anthony Vaccarello (Saint Laurent), Sabato De Sarno (Gucci)

Virginie Viard (Chanel), Anthony Vaccarello (Saint Laurent), Sabato De Sarno (Gucci)

Who: Virginie Viard

Creative director of: Chanel

Creative director of the brand since: February 2019

Earlier stints: Chanel’s fashion studio director under Karl Lagerfeld

Strengths: Virginie Viard’s strengths as the creative director of Chanel revolve around seamlessly continuing Karl Lagerfeld’s iconic legacy while introducing her own contemporary vision. Her deep understanding of Chanel’s heritage and unmatched craftsmanship skills enable her to create collections that pay homage to the brand’s timeless elegance while embracing contemporary elements. Her strong connection to the brand’s heritage and Lagerfeld’s legacy, combined with her innovative design concepts, set her work apart, solidifying her position as a leading creative force in the luxury fashion industry.

Achievements: Viard’s seamless transition and unwavering commitment to preserving Chanel’s timeless elegance earned her widespread acclaim. In 2020, Viard was honoured with the prestigious Designer of the Year award at the British Fashion Awards. Her ability to modernise the brand’s signature designs while staying true to its heritage resulted in critically acclaimed collections. Her Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2021/22 collection was particularly praised for its exquisite craftsmanship and intricate detailing.

Who: Sabato De Sarno

Creative director of: Gucci

Creative director of the brand since: January 28, 2023

Earlier stints: Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino

Strengths: De Sarno’s notable strengths lie in his innovative and captivating designs. He possesses a keen eye for contemporary trends, infusing them with Gucci’s rich heritage to create collections that are both relevant and timeless. His focus on sustainability and technological integration further sets his work apart, showcasing Gucci’s commitment to responsible fashion practices.

Achievements: De Sarno’s creative direction at Gucci has been nothing short of exceptional since he assumed the role. His innovative designs and captivating collections have earned him widespread recognition, leading to the prestigious Luxury Brand of the Year Award for Gucci at the Elle Style Awards in 2022. De Sarno’s ability to tap into contemporary trends while maintaining Gucci’s rich heritage garnered him critical acclaim and commercial success. His Spring-Summer 2023 collection was particularly notable, receiving the Fashion Innovation Award for its groundbreaking use of sustainable materials and technological integration, solidifying Gucci’s position as a pioneering and socially responsible fashion brand.

Who: Anthony Vaccarello

Creative director of: Saint Laurent

Creative director of the brand since: April 2016

Earlier stints: Versus Versace

Strengths: Vaccarello’s strengths lie in his talent for embracing sensuality and rock-chic aesthetics with contemporary elegance. His designs exude a powerful and seductive allure, attracting a young and diverse audience while staying true to Saint Laurent’s rebellious spirit. Vaccarello’s unique strength lies in his ability to modernise the brand’s image, captivating a new generation of luxury consumers while honouring the brand’s iconic heritage.

Achievements: Vaccarello’s artistic direction at Saint Laurent has been marked by remarkable accomplishments since he took on the role. His bold and daring designs garnered him the CFDA International Award for Best Womenswear Designer in 2018, celebrating his innovative contributions to the fashion industry. Vaccarello’s visionary approach and ability to infuse sensuality with contemporary elegance took Saint Laurent to new heights, leading to the brand’s inclusion in Time’s 100 Most Influential Companies in 2021. His Fall-Winter 2022 collection, recognised as one of the best collections of the season, solidified his status as a driving force in the luxury fashion world.

Who: Olivier Rousteing

Creative director of: Balmain

Creative director of the brand since: April 2011

Earlier stints: Roberto Cavalli

Strengths: Rousteing’s strengths as the creative director of Balmain are reflected in his glamorous and opulent designs, which showcase intricate embellishments and celebrate the beauty of individuality. His unique talent lies in his ability to create collections that exude luxury and exclusivity while embracing inclusivity and diversity. Rousteing’s focus on body positivity and his commitment to celebrating various cultures have set him apart as a champion of change in the fashion industry.

Achievements: Rousteing’s glamorous and opulent designs garnered him the Fashion Innovator Award at the British Fashion Awards in 2015, celebrating his bold contributions to the fashion industry. Under his leadership, Balmain won the Luxury Brand of the Year Award at the Elle Style Awards in 2019, highlighting the brand’s enduring appeal and global success. Rousteing’s commitment to diversity and inclusivity in fashion was acknowledged when he received the CFDA Positive Change Award in 2021. His exceptional crafts-manship and intricate embellish-ments have elevated Balmain to a prominent position in the luxury fashion world, making it a favourite among celebrities and fashion connoisseurs.

Who: Jonathan Anderson

Creative director of: Loewe

Creative director of the brand since: September 2013

Earlier stints: JW Anderson

Strengths: Anderson’s artistic and avant-garde aesthetics revolve around his emphasis on craftsmanship and innovation. His designs reflect a unique blend of art and fashion, showcasing exceptional attention to detail and unparalleled creativity. Anderson’s ability to experiment with materials and textures has resulted in collections that push the boundaries of traditional luxury fashion, solidifying Loewe’s position as an iconic and forward-thinking brand.

Achievements: Anderson’s visionary role at Loewe has been met with critical acclaim and prestigious awards. His innovative designs and commitment to craftsmanship earned him the highly esteemed British Fashion Award for Menswear Designer of the Year in 2015. Anderson’s unique approach to design, blending art and fashion seamlessly, garnered him the British Fashion Awards’ Designer of the Year accolade in both 2017 and 2019, cementing his status as a creative powerhouse. Under his leadership, Loewe’s innovative and sustainable initiatives received the Butterfly Mark certification from Positive Luxury in 2022, acknowledging the brand’s commitment to ethical practices.

Who: Kim Jones

Creative director of: Fendi

Creative director of the brand since: September 2020

Earlier stints: Louis Vuitton, Dior Men’s

Strengths: Kim Jones is renowned for his exceptional talent in merging streetwear aesthetics with high fashion, creating a unique and sought-after style that resonates with a diverse audience. His ability to bridge the gap between luxury and urban culture sets him apart as a visionary creative director. Jones’s keen eye for detail, impeccable craftsmanship, and innovative design concepts showcase his artistic brilliance. His collaborative spirit and knack for working with renowned artists and designers further highlight his strength in fostering creativity and pushing boundaries.

Achievements: Since becoming the creative director of Fendi’s Women’s Haute Couture, Ready-to-Wear, and Fur collections, Kim Jones has achieved remarkable success. His unique and contemporary perspective at Fendi has been met with widespread acclaim, revitalising the brand and attracting a new generation of fashion enthusiasts. Jones’s Fall-Winter 2021 collection, featuring the collaboration with renowned artist Joshua Vides, garnered critical praise for its artistic vision and bold aesthetics.

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