Chhana and cake might not seem like a natural pairing, but during Christmas, J.N. Barua’s hole-in-the-wall bakery in Bow Barracks, Kolkata, comes up with a distinctive winter-time treat known as Chhanar Cake. This culinary delight, pioneered by Jatindra Nath Barua (J. N. Barua), traces its origins back to the late British period. Originally from Chittagong (now in Bangladesh) Barua came to Kolkata in search of fortune. His Chhanar Cake quickly won the hearts of the Anglo-Indian community in Bow Barracks and there was no looking back since then.
Ratan Barua, the present owner of J.N. Barua Bakery
More than three quarters of a century has passed and J.N. Barua has made his way to the heavenly abode and many Anglo-Indians have left the city but the bakery of J.N. Barua still sells a variety of bakery items to dozens of hungry souls. After the death of J.N. Barua, his two sons, Montu and Ratan, took charge of the shop. But Montu passed away a few years ago leaving the entire responsibility on his younger brother.
(L-R) Wine Cake, Chhanar Cake and Rum Cake
Chhanar Cake is available in aluminum foil boxes of varying sizes, with prices ranging from Rs 40 to Rs 400. Previously, both the Chhanar Cake and other cakes from J.N. Barua were packaged in paper, but due to the unavailability of those special papers, they have been replaced with aluminum foil bowls. Another highlight from the shop is their Wine Cake, crafted using homemade wines fermented from apple, grape, ginger, and more. The selection also includes Rum, Fruit, and Walnut cakes. Additionally, the bakery offers a variety of patties, a hot favorite among customers, featuring fillings such as veg, chicken, mutton, paneer and even coconut.
A customer inspects an assortment of cakes at the shop
Social media has played a pivotal role, attracting a new set of customers to the hole-in-the-wall bakery every winter. Unfortunately, the third generation of the Barua family appears disinterested in the shop’s legacy. Montu’s son holds a job, and while he occasionally visits the shop, he lacks significant interest in continuing his grandfather’s legacy. Ratan’s only daughter is married and settled in Dubai. The uncertain future of this age-old bakery raises questions about its survival amidst the rapidly changing demographics of Bow Barracks. With the constantly changing demography of Bow Barracks, will the shop survive? Will it close down or bounce back? Only time will tell.
What: J.N. Barua Bakery
Where: 6, Mahim Chandra Das Sarani, Beck Bagan, Kolkata
Pocket pinch: Chhana Cakes start at Rs 40
The Chhana Cake is only made during the winter months in Kolkata, around December to early February.
