Translate from Hyderabad, known for its cool and easy-breezy ikat wear, is showcasing at Elahe Urban, from August 24-26. t2 chatted with its founder Vinita Passary, to know more about the brand.
What has this decade been like?
It has been one of learning new things, understanding and growth through continuous interaction; nurturing the idea from inception to the possibilities it deserves by taking the craft from the grassroots level to the global wearers.
Why did you choose to work with ikat?
I’ve always had a vision to create something of a personal taste, something with a deep-rooted connect with an ancient craft. Having moved to Telangana from Odisha in early 2000, I found my passion by retailing discerning homegrown labels under the umbrella store Anonym, a lifestyle store connected to the new era of contemporary Indian clothing. This motivated me to rethink how I would approach it and hence found my ever-growing love for local weaves of Telangana where the craft was already modern and contemporary. I decided to pursue and work with artisans of Telangana by creating a concept brand in 2010 that works solely with skilled ikat artisans by creating classics that are global in ethos.
What kind of challenges have you faced in your journey of working with ikat?
There were many but one that tops the list is those that come from having had to change the way ikat is perceived and conceived; making our regional artisans break stereotypes and work with patterns and colours that are out of the box, to face the mind block of exploration and acceptance to believe that that is the only way forward today. Finally, now the use of the medium with sample looms and understanding the current needs of colour, patterns and the freedom to explore is much more than what it was 10 years back.
The garments look very comfortable...
Vinita Passary
For Translate we have always seen a roaring success. As we started our journey, we picked from the archives of already existing techniques and brought that contemporary-ness to a traveller or a globetrotter by the way of our fabrics, dyes.... We have been shown kind acceptance by people, as they enjoyed every bit. In 10 years, we were able to change the vocabulary of the weave, nurtured it well, as for an ikat patron it’s always a joy to see the newness and the freshness that we bring. Through our cuts, shapes and finishes we are engaging a wider audience living in different parts of the world and growing awareness for this beautiful heritage craft.
Tell our readers about how painstaking the process is…
It starts from an idea that is converted to a visual design, which a master weaver transforms into a graph, which is then used to tie-dye the yarn. More the number of colours in a design, more is the time involvement from the dyer and the tie-dye team. Once the yarns are prepared, they are woven into the desired patterns. There is a lot of precision involved in the entire process and there’s no room for errors. We do both single and double ikat and double takes more skills of workmanship. Each design collection sampling takes a minimum of eight months as this is a slow craft, handcrafted and woven.
What are you getting to Calcutta, at Elahe?
Calcutta has always been one of our favourite cities where folks have been appreciating our work. At this event, we are bringing Urban Scapes, our latest collection. The collection refers to the dynamic backdrops to people’s everyday lives. The motifs used in this collection are inspired by the busy yet picturesque topographical views of urban life combined with a soothing colour story consisting of bright whites, powder blues, concrete greys and pops of scarlet, making the collection fit seamlessly into one’s high summer wardrobe. The soft breathable cottons are light as a feather, apt for the weather, and will ensure effortless comfort. The mindfully crafted airy silhouettes will give one plenty of room for both work and play.
What more do you want to explore with ikat?
Honestly, explorations are very organic for us. The idea is to create pieces that withstand the tide of times and can be treasured for a long time while adding more joy and vibrancy to each one’s wardrobe in the ever-changing world of trends through the medium of ikat.