They share a cumulative work experience and knowledge base of around 137 years between them and are the wizards with the magic wand, the men behind some the most beautiful looks you have seen in films, fashion campaigns and editorials over the years and for whom the brides make a beeline. They have made the City of Joy proud and are global citizens with a Calcutta core. And getting together whom for a story on the same date and time seemed like ‘mission impossible’. After numerous permutations and combinations with dates, that too during a peak wedding month, Nabin Das, Aniruddha Chakladar, Abhijith Chanda, Abhijit Paul, Mainak Das and Prasenjit Biswas squeezed out a morning for us and we shot this special feature at The Bhawanipur House, a lovely property in Bhowanipore. Babusona Saha was there in spirit as he had to head out for a shoot outside Calcutta and had already shot his bit. The make-up heroes with marvellous artistic skills, some of them pretty much synonymous with the birth, growth and evolution of the industry in Calcutta, looked back at their journeys and shared valuable tips for the generation ahead.
LOOKING BACK
Nabin Das:I have been in this profession for 35 years. I must have been 18 when I started. Make-up was a passion for me and I am self-taught. Since childhood, I could tie hair in different ways and in seconds. I would experiment on my sisters. I used to work in a photo studio and earn Rs 20. I did that for 10 years. This was 25 years back. A lot of film stars used to get their pictures clicked there. Back then, the make-up used in plays or jatra was used as base. We didn’t have so many products and worked with Ganesh Palette, that was available in Dharamtala and cost around Rs 400-500. Even heroines. Kajal, foundation, liner, blush-on and lipstick were the only products available. Lakme’r ekta lipstick kinle, loke bhabto koto make-up er jinish kinechhi! (Laughs) No straighteners or tongs. Comb, blow-dry and go. Even for weddings a parlour visit wasn’t mandatory. There was the concept of ‘scale khopa’. Now, I have innumerable products.
When I started, Calcutta did not have more than three-four make-up artists who were into fashion. Most of them were in films. Make-up was a lot more natural then. I still prefer natural make-up. You can go one shade brighter than your skintone because make-up settles down. Those with small eyes can go for a bit of a brown on the lower lid, but never load your upper eyelid with eyeshadow. If you have big eyes,use mascara and a light eyeshadow.
Initially, I hardly had a say (while doing make-up). And, some film stars preferred using their own make-up, say one particular shade of lipstick, even though I had better colours, because they felt it suited them more.
Back then, fashion make-up was more for ramp shows. The base would be Kryolan’s and there would be orange and yellow banana powder, blush-on and cutting. Sabyasachi Mukherjee preferred a natural look... simple base and smudged kajal. I have worked with Bipasha Basu, Celina Jaitly, Koena Mitra and many more.
If you are talented, you will do well, but it should be your passion and not just a profession — Babusona
There is a healthy competition, which is great... For today’s generation, it’s easier to get that reach or exposure almost instantly due to social media — Abhijit
Aniruddha Chakladar:It’s been 28 years for me. He (Nabin) started very young. I started a little late, around 23. My journey started in the film industry and I assisted Ananta Das for Sandip Ray’s Uttoran and then Pandhari Juker for the studio part of Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge. The Kryolan palette was the Bible. Things were disorganised. There were two divisions... the film industry and the parlours. The profession of an independent make-up artist practically started with us... Nabin, me, Prabirda (Prabir Kumar De). I started with Sananda. When we started, there were no stylists.
Abhijith Chanda: I started 23 years back. I also started working with Sananda. We had to do almost everything. I’ve had to carry a frying pan and a pair of scissors too! Now the job has become much easier.
Back then, the lines were blurred between bridal make-up, film make-up and fashion make-up. If you didn’t apply kajal and eyeliner, it was considered you haven’t done your job or you can’t do make-up. At fashion shows, after the look had been set, the models would go apply liner and lipstick. I wondered why was it happening to me. Later I figured out, it was because I was new, they could bully me. Now choreographers and stylists are stricter.
I remember going to a photographer once who is no more, asking for some guidance. His first words were: ‘Ekhane theke kichhu hobe na. Bombay chole jao. Mickey Contractor’er haathe paaye dhoro. If you can at all learn something, bhebe dekhbo’. Portfolio shoots would start at 8am and would go on till 9pm. There was no concept of digital. Your fate depended on Polaroid shots. I would only earn Rs 200 from such shoots from which I would save to buy make-up. The concept of a moisturiser wasn’t prevalent. There would be a direct coat of Kryolan stick followed by the dusting off of some powder...
Aniruddha: Then water spray and dabbing the cheeks for eternity....
Abhijith: Apply pancake mixed in water and if you didn’t apply pancake, you were a terrible makeup artist.
Aniruddha: The pancake had to be a combination of natural and yellow.
Nabin: And, one had to smear that pancake water all over the body! (Laughs)
Aniruddha: Honestly, there wasn’t much resistance that I faced. If there was any, it had to do with the process. Oi tumi 200 ghonta dhore gaale thepchho na or you are opting for light make-up. I started working with actors much later, when models became actors.
Prasenjit Biswas:I have completed my 10th year in the profession. I knew I wasn’t cut out for a nine-to-five job and creative pursuits were dear to me. A friend’s uncle was a photographer and he made me aware about make-up being a profession. I had no idea that make-up could be a separate profession. For me, a make-up artist meant someone who does bridal make-up. He asked me to go over to his studio to observe a few shoots. That was the first time I saw Sealdah.
From what I took notes of, I dashed off to New Market to buy make-up. I had around Rs 8,000 in my account and spent Rs 6,000 (laughs). I had no idea how to subsist the entire month on a meagre Rs 2,000! (Laughs) I started experimenting on my own and after I had garnered a bit of confidence, I called the same friend’s uncle for an opportunity. I don’t know how I fared, but he appreciated my efforts.
I would browse through magazines and come across their names (points at Aniruddha and Abhijith). There was no social media and I had no idea how to get in touch with people but then one thing led to another and here I am.
Mainak Das: For me, it’s been 12 years. For a young make-up artist, the more you could deliver, the more were the offers. I would only do e-commerce shoots then, say, 300 saris in a day. I would do hair and make-up and then drape and carry jewellery too. After a point, it got frustrating and finally I started saying ‘no’. That has helped me a lot.
Abhijit Paul: I started working professionally in 2008 and the assignment was for Unish Kuri. I am not formally trained but had friends who were make-up artists and I would hang around on the sets and observe them. I was a student of fine arts and never thought I’d be a make-up artist, but I would do bridal make-up off and on. This wasn’t a planned move. People who like my work, approach me. I won’t say I have had to struggle too much, but yes, since I am not formally trained, I have had to work on picking up the nuances of the craft and hone them. I love what I do and that’s why it’s been smooth so far. The goodwill has developed over the years because I am punctual and handle clients well. Reputation takes long to build. Over the years, kohl eyes have been my favourite look.
Babusona Saha:I started working in 2010 and am self-taught. I have always had a passion for this profession and would deck up people I knew. I did reached out to some people in Calcutta but did not get a favourable response. Then, someone I knew was taking part in Didi No.1 and I had accompanied her. I met a make-up artist there who helped me with a few contact and I ended up assisting them. Then I started out on my own.
I have had to struggle a lot. I used to commute from Agarpara, my sister’s house. I am from Nabadwip. I have often missed the last train from Sealdah and spent the night at the station, reached home and left for work again. I commuted daily for three years, till I shifted to Calcutta.
I love art. And, make-up is also an art. I used to paint idols and draw their eyes, in Nabadwip. I devour YouTube videos on make-up. I love glamourous make-up, but it has to be subtle and fresh.
(L-R) Mainak Das, Nabin Das and Abhijit Paul dressed natty for the special shoot.
THE CAMARADERIE
Aniruddha: I am more comfortable with liquid (makeup) and Abhijith taught me that.
Abhijith: He (Aniruddha) has been very supportive. I used to read Sananda from my school days and see his work. He once commented on Orkut that Abhijith is someone who remembers my work more than me! His work had so much variety. Brown, bronze, gold and black were the staple colours then, but his make-up had blue, green and purple.
I remember one of my assignments required me to only do up someone’s back. He (Aniruddha) was also there and was asked to guide me. He entered the make-up room and said: ‘Chup kor toh. Golpo korte eshechhi.’ It was a big confidence booster. We are all sharing the same space today for this shoot. There was a time when catching a glimpse of him was a big deal.
Prasenjit: It was the same for me. Meeting and seeing you all (Nabin, Aniruddha, Abhijith) was a dream.
Abhijith:I learnt how to apply mascara from Nabin. I have seen him do amazing transformations. His talent is immeasurable.
Aniruddha: A lot of people have called and asked: ‘Can I talk to Abhijith Chakladar?!’ (Laughs) We have exchanged dates and venues of brides too!
The younger generation is amazing when it comes to presenting their skills and themselves, something our generation did not know. Your presentation will fetch you respect. You have to adapt to the times. It feels great to go through the profiles. This profession is very dear to us and somewhere down the line, they have added dignity to it, which is commendable — Aniruddha
Outfit: Eshaani Jayaswal
Abhijith: Prasenjit and I have gone running together. When I was buying a flat, Prasenjit was also looking for one and I told him to go have a look at a spare one below mine.
Abhijit: I have a deep respect for all my seniors and have grown up watching Aniruddhada and Nabinda’s work. I have learnt by observing them. I love how warm Aniruddhada is. Whenever I have met Abhijith, we’ve had nice conversations. Nabinda is so creative and he is fast. Prasenjit has strong aesthetics and Mainak, overall, is very good. I like Babusona’s ethnic looks.
Babusona: I used to follow Prabir Kumar De a lot and also Aniruddhada and Abhijith Chanda since I was 15-16. I met Nabinda when I joined the industry. Abhijith Chanda is a very good friend and like my brother. We used to stay in the same neighbourhood earlier. I share a great rapport with him and I respect Aniruddhada a lot. He is very affectionate towards me. I love Abhijit’s work and he is a wonderful human being. I have known Mainakda for years and he is very fond of me. I have spent a lot of time with Prasenjit too. Everyone is doing great work and I share a good relationship with everyone.
THE EVOLUTION
Nabin:I think, it’s become a lot more easier now. We still start with a prayer, but I don’t see that in this generation. The good thing is there is so much more available now but most people don’t know how to utilise them all.
Abhijith: Due to social media, the exposure is that much more. We only had magazines as reference. Calcutta has also learnt to accept. When I started doing dewy makeup in Calcutta, people would instantly say they are looking darker.
Nabin: ‘Powder lagiye dao’ (laughs)....
Prasenjit: All the make-up artists now carry good brands.
Abhijith: For us, buying brands back then was next to impossible. I had bought a single eyeshadow from M.A.C. called Sketch back in 2004-2005 from New Market and it had cost me Rs 1,700.... We didn’t even travel that much.
Aniruddha: When I started, we didn’t have M.A.C in India. Kryolan was there and we had Bourjois.
Mainak:It’s not as if we haven’t used Kryolan, but there has been a sudden change in the last eight-nine years. Everybody has started using liquid foundation now.
Prasenjit: My entire concept of make-up changed when I saw Daniel Bauer do make-up. I have used Kryolan stick and even though I had M.A.C’s foundation, I didn’t know how best to use it. That you can do make-up without foundation was something I learned too. When I came back to Calcutta and started doing it, I was told I don’t know how to do make-up! (Laughs)
Abhijith: The new-generation photographers are so technologically sound that you work has become easier. There was no concept of monitors when we started.
Aniruddha: Due to digital advancement, even the smallest things are edited. Back in the days, editing used to happen in advertising agencies. A portfolio photographer never edited.
Abhijith: If someone had a pimple, the only solution was to either adjust the angle of your face or place a sheet of thermocol below to blend it. Aar tateo jodi na hoi, make-up artist er mathai uthe nachto! (Laughs)
Prasenjit: Now the concept of treating us equally has gained in prominence. It wasn’t always so.
Mainak: I have always stressed that you cannot treat me like labour. I am an artist and you have to give me my due.
Abhijith: Till Babusona’s generation or even a generation after that, they wanted to learn. The absolutely new generation doesn’t want to. They just want to be famous.
Mainak: They are just famous on social media. Aniruddha: That has become a parameter now. Even actors are recruited seeing their followers.
Prasenjit: They are unprofessional too in the sense that they are offering their services free or at a very low cost. The entire structure is crumbling. If you are getting your work done at Rs 5,000, why will you pay Rs 20,000?
Abhijit: The work pattern has changed a lot because now the competition is very high. And, there is a healthy competition, which is great. When I started, social media wasn’t this strong. For today’s generation, it’s easier to get that reach or exposure almost instantly due to social media.
I have had to struggle a lot. I used to commute from Agarpara, my sister’s house. I am from Nabadwip. I have often missed the last train from Sealdah and spent the night at the station, reached home and left for work again. I commuted daily for three years, till I shifted to Calcutta — Babusona
GENERATION NEXT
Abhijith: There is no limit to how much you can learn. Had the younger lot not started the concept of going foundation-less or dewy make-up, perhaps I wouldn’t have been able to get started on it even now.
Aniruddha: They are amazing when it comes to presenting their skills and themselves, something our generation did not know. Your presentation will fetch you respect. You have to adapt to the times. It feels great to go through the profiles. This profession is very dear to us and somewhere down the line, they have added dignity to it, which is commendable.
Prasenjit: Thank you.
Abhijith: From ‘make-up man’, they have elevated it to the level of a ‘make-up expert’. Mainak: I knew of Aniruddha Chakladar and Abhijith Chanda as great make-up artists and I’ve always wanted to be like them. Prasenjit: My biggest learning has been the positivity. I’d see Aniruddhada and Abhijithda and their friendship has really stayed with me. I have often felt why can’t all of us be together.
Abhijith: Yes, we might be competitors, but not enemies.
Aniruddha: If you have that bonding, then no one would be able to exploit you.
TOP TIPS
Aniruddha:It’s a wonderful profession. Give yourself time. Learn properly and don’t try to achieve something without actually achieving it. Don’t portray yourself as something you are not.
Abhijith: We are called artists because it is an art form and the next generation alone will carry it forward. So, learn instead of learning how to apply filters!
Mainak: I feel one is born with the talent. Join this profession, but give it time. The way Paoli Dam looks when Dada (Aniruddha) decks her up, is distinct, and she looks lovely.
Aniruddha: This is a chemistry between an artist and a muse and is rare. Like actor and director or singer and music director. Say RD Burman and Gulzar. Ethereal.
Mainak: Invest in it if you are really serious. Otherwise you are just wasting time. Don’t do makeup for Instagram.
Prasenjit: You can learn from various schools but the instinct has to be personal. It is an art and you need to have that individuality. If you feel you have that instinct of an artist in you, please join and not because of the fame or money.
Abhijith: Then it is not sustainable.
Abhijit: A lot of people want to join this profession thinking they’ll earn a lot of money. Instead you should love the craft. You cannot learn things overnight. So, be patient and strive to do well.
Nabin: The more you’ll absorb, the more you’ll learn. Aamar puro jibon tai make-up e theke gelo. Do not go OTT and don’t try to change someone’s face. You are not God!
Babusona:If you are talented, you will do well, but it should be your passion and not just a profession.
Location: The Bhawanipur House