One has been touching lives with Fashion For Development since 1996, “built on the idea that fashion could facilitate social, economic and sustainable development... today the biggest thing across the world”. And the other belongs to the last generation of supermodels on the Indian ramp, and is still so relevant. The iconic Bangladeshi model-turned-designer Bibi Russell and the inimitable Nayanika Chatterjee. Lessons in humility and warmth. The two came together on a winter afternoon at JW Marriott Kolkata to shoot for the just-launched ZAARII, a digital lifestyle platform founded by Praabal Kumar Basu and Koyel Chakladar, for which Bibidi as we fondly call her, has done a special collection.
Nayanika did her own hair and make-up (yes even after walking for the best of the best and with more than three decades of experience) and the shoot was over in less than two hours! What followed was a cosy adda with The Telegraph on how art is life, positivity, hope, the digital world and how money is not a dirty word, but perhaps what’s more important is dignity of labour.
How did ZAARII happen?
Bibidi: Praabal told me what he wants to do. I grew up with music and I listen to music all the time. Bangladesh is rich in folk music and there is zari’r gaan, which is nearly dying. With my association with ZAARII, I think people will think that I am working with zari’r gaan. They want to promote all kinds of handicrafts. I am an artist and I like all kinds of beautiful things, but we come from a part where people make magic with their hands. I liked his approach and there is trust.
This is the first time you are travelling since the pandemic broke out...
Bibidi: Kolkata is very close to my heart. Nayanika was coming too, so it was a pleasure. Kolkata gives you the strength to continue. I have memories from my childhood. Sombhu Mitra, Tripti Mitra... Mohun Bagan er football aamar baba niye ashe.
What are you showcasing on ZAARII?
Bibidi: I have showcased a special line and I wanted to start with green. Whatever I do, there has to be a story.
Nayanika: Also, Bibi’s rickshaw art is going through Indiya By Nayanika (an online platform where she is curating all things “handmade with an Indian touch”) to ZAARII.
Bibidi: I had promised Nayanika that I would give it to her and even if you give me millions of dollars, I will not break that promise!
How has the world of the digital been a boon for your industry?
Bibidi: In the pandemic, I went digital. I took online classes and we are selling online too. It’s tough (laughs) and I am still learning and I always say to learn you don’t have any age.
Do you buy online?
Bibidi: I do grocery shopping!
Nayanika, what about you?
Nayanika: I have to tell you that I don’t like shopping online because invariably what you see is not what you get. You feel cheated. I like to feel the fabric when it comes to clothes. But, that has been a learning process for me as to what not to do (for Indiya By Nayanika). If I am wearing bangles, I show it worn or if I have bags, I hold it in my hands and show so that people realise the sizing. I am starting to enjoy it more not for the fact that it is online, but for the fact that it is reaching a wider section of people. Your marketing has to be good.
Bibidi: I don’t take returns and do not practice cash on delivery and I tell Nayanika to do the same.
Nayanika: When we put out a product, we are sure of the quality. It’s not a con. ZAARII is great. As Bibi said, he (Praabal) knows how to create and sell. We are more creative people. He will take our creativity and put it in a proper framework. We can be gullible and silly! (Laughs) Bibi is one of my biggest inspirations because I see how she works and what she does and it really inspires me. Her price range has surprised me over the years but then you see the larger picture... how she is helping so many more people.
Nayanika, you have been her muse forever. What do you love about her?
Nayanika: I did her first show and I had obviously heard about her but I have a habit of researching. I saw her old pictures. I was already in awe of her and she was so down to earth that we just formed a bond and that bond is just continuing. We met in 2000-2001. She is really chilled out and has changed so many lives. That is so inspiring. I have never seen an individual who has turned so many lives around. That’s the true change. It is very easy to make a beautiful-looking dress and sell it for Rs 50 lakhs. But is that the point? The pandemic has made me realise Bibi’s value even more because I have realised life is not about the next car or house, more and more. She is so selfless. Her whole project is funded by her own money that she earned from modelling.
ZAARII is an initiative between two friends and is an India and UK venture. We have our offices both in India and the UK. My partner is based out of UK and has been based there for almost 20 years. What we identified during this pandemic is that there is no certainty about anything and you need to have a backup and whether we like it or not, there is digitisation happening randomly. We wanted to create a differentiation for ourselves. The first thing was to build an ecosystem of products. We curate products and are selective about the kind of products that we will stock. The platform will highlight the ethnicity of all Indian products and the hidden gems and priceless creations from all parts of India and make them available to a global market. Bibidi is a complete inspiration for me and I only refer to her as my mentor. She is just so positive. Hers was the first name that came to mind. Nayanika is phenomenal. Everything goes back to Bibidi and through her I got to know Nayanika. The kind of value adds she does for her products, makes them exclusive
Praabal Kumar Basu
Fusion fashion at its best! Nayanika teamed a bottle-green khadi dress with gamchha pants and muffler. “My favourite colour is green but I am fussy with the tone,” said Bibidi. We love the shoes. Those pairs are also a testament to Bibidi’s passion, which she has passed on to her team. “I wanted these shoes but I make shoes with fabric. My office team got me recycled rubber shoes and we did the painting,” she said.
When you have supermodel Nayanika Chatterjee shooting for you, anything she agrees to is a bonus. So, when she agreed to slip into the bathtub in another khadi number, we were over the moon!
Nayanika looks statuesque in an apple-green khadi sari and crochet blouse. “I worked on that sari for nearly a year because khadi is sometimes heavy. I don’t like too much starch too. Then you don’t see the weaving mistakes and the sari is like cardboard. I want the younger generation who are the future to embrace the sari,” said Bibidi. She has 500 ladies making crochet, some of them 50-60. “I took them in because they had nothing to do and they didn’t know what fashion was. That was one my bestsellers, cotton and handwoven,” she added. How cool are the bobbin and safety pin accessories! The upcycled bangles and the waist bag are signature Bibi Russell.
Silver jewellery. Upcycled bangles. Rickshaw art glasses and jacket. A gamchha scarf. You can put Bibi Russell anywhere, such a global nomad she is! What makes her stand out is her strong individuality, a a rarity in today’s times.
Bibidi’s Kolkata diary
Pictures: Pabitra Das
Nita Khandekar, director, ICAR Soybean University, was also present.
Bibi Russell’s Kolkata trip also packed in a visit to the Y-East Mixer Community Meet Up — The 2021 Epilogue — an initiative of Techno India Group, held at Offbeat CCU, Topsia, and co-organised by Turnitgreen, where she addressed a young audience on sustainability. (L-R) Ananda Mitra, professor of communications at Wake Forest University, North Carolina, the keynote speaker, professor Manoshi Roychowdhury, co–chairman,Techno India Group, Pauline Laravoire, founder, Y-East, director, sustainability, Techno India Group, Meghdut Roychowdhury, founder, Offbeat CCU, chief innovation officer and executive director, Techno India Group, Bibi Russell and Sudarshan Chakravorty who was representing Turnitgreen, at the event. “Using tradition, recycling and upcycling as the foundation of all my designs, my primary goal is supporting poverty-stricken artisans with dignity. My best work has come out of two years of intense thinking and that is why I laud all of you present here for having a space like Cafe Offbeat — a ‘thinking-zone’ for entrepreneurs and change-makers to contemplate and take actions in their respective fields,” said Bibidi. “Y-East Mixer events are a re-energiser for me — a time that rejuvenates me and makes me more hopeful and believe in life again. It is particularly inspiring to meet members of the community who are doing amazing work in the field of Sustainable Development Goals,” said Pauline. “Y-East Mixer has become a marquee event of our collective. So far, with 15 events — lot of them online — the energy and enthusiasm has been phenomenal. This event based on sustainable fashion has been highly inspiring with Bibi Russell coming in with her valuable inputs of how to integrate development of sustainable fashion with local communities,” said Meghdut.
Pictures: Rashbehari Das