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A timeless mood board of saris, featuring Ushoshi Sengupta and styles from Kanishka’s

The weavers told me the cost of handloom is becoming a deterrent and the next generation is not willing to pursue this profession. I insisted Kanishka’s has to be handlooms, says Nandita Raja

Saionee Chakraborty Published 12.05.22, 01:17 AM
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With the pandemic reiterating the relevance of classic simplicity, we turned to Nandita Raja of heritage den Kanishka’s, which has clocked 50 years, to curate a slice of the eternal elegance for The Telegraph. One of the leading names in hand-block printing in Kolkata, the famous Hindusthan Road atelier remains a connoisseur’s choice. On a sunny Thursday morning, she opened up her collector’s paradise of a Ballygunge Place home for this special shoot. Here’s the album.

Ushoshi cuts a charming portrait in the classic red Benarasi. The red Benarasi blouse from Warssi Kolkata keeps the look subtle. Kaanbalas + hashuli + golap bala, all from Anjali Jewellers, add the right amount of understated glamour. The slightly smudged bindi and bright lips lend it a Raja Ravi Varma painting vibe. “I went to Benaras three years after the pandemic and I could hear the sound of power loom. The weavers told me the cost is becoming a deterrent and the next generation is not willing to pursue this profession. I insisted Kanishka’s has to be handlooms,” says Nandita Raja. 

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Ushoshi drapes a blue tussore with a “skirt border” and teams it with a polka-dotted jacket blouse and chunky silver pieces, all from Aranya Kolkata. The kohl eyes and the messy curls add to the look. The dot of a bindi is the icing on the cake. “This is our traditional tussore and Kanishka’s is famous for tussore. And, when we started Kanishka’s, we started with scripts. That script is still very popular. There are geometrical motifs flanking it in this sari,” says Nandita.

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The dreamy romance in this picture is hard to miss. The onion-pink crepe sari with beautiful kingfisher motifs, is styled with a three-quarter-sleeve V-neck blouse in grey with temple border and silver accessories, all from Aranya Kolkata. “This is also a very modern look. We have played around with the bird motif in different ways,” says Nandita.

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The all-time favourite red-and-black combination plays out in this Phulia cotton drape, with the fish motif being the centrepiece. An ajrakh-print strappy blouse is complemented by statement silver jewellery, all from Aranya Kolkata, to create a boardroom-to-bar look. A touch of braid and metallic eyes give it a hint of dressy. If you want a bit of drama, smudge your bindi, Nandita style, like we have tried!

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The serenity of this lovely frame is the hero. Ushoshi draped a traditional Chanderi with an ajrakh-print blouse from Aranya Kolkata. The gold jewellery from Anjali Jewellers perfectly matches the mood of the sari. The flowers accentuate the classic-calm vibe. “I try to retain the heritage of a particular craft and mix and match with my sensibilities,” says Nandita.

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Accessorised simply, this organza Benarasi in the classic cream-and-red combo is great for a summer wedding, just as Nandita suggests.

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These are timeless saris. The styles we have done are contemporary, smart and talk about strong women. I have experimented with the blouses. You need to pick and choose your blouses and accessories carefully while doing timeless styles — Anupam Chatterjee, our stylist for the day

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I always feel that while doing saris, go for kohl eyes, neutral lips and a small bindi. With Ushoshi, we have kept her messy curls — Babusona Saha, our hair and make-up artist for the day

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Nandita Raja of Kanishka’s is dressed in a Phulia cotton sari. The checks on the sari matches her shirt-blouse really well to add a contemporary-cool edge to the look. 

Pictures: Pabitra Das

Styling: Anupam Chatterjee

Hair and make-up: Babusona Saha

Blouses and silver jewellery: Aranya Kolkata

Red Benarasi blouse: Warssi Kolkata

Gold jewellery: Anjali Jewellers

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