Ekaya Banaras’ Ambush packs in loads of drama in how the collection has been styled and photographed. A truly global expression of Ekaya’s signature weaving techniques of kadhwa, cutwork, embossing, tanchoi and meenakari, the handcrafted saris and lehngas that make up the spring/summer 2022 offering are statement pieces where heritage meets contemporary. We chatted with Palak Shah, CEO, Ekaya Banaras, on the inspirations and what she makes of the mediocrity in fashion right now.
Ambush looks intriguing...
As the name suggests, it’s to take people by surprise. Unlike ambush, which is slightly more to be taken by surprise in a negative way, we hope to take by surprise in a positive way. Shikargah is such an age-old design technique and it has always been traditional, we wanted to give a whole new spin to it, not just in the way the textile designing is done, but also the way the styling is done. We tried to do it in a way that a modern girl would wear, a girl who loves her tradition, but is also global in her outlook.
What is the Ekaya spin?
Every product is engineered in a certain way. We’ve taken on animal skin and made it all over. Even in terms of the traditional ones, we have tried to bring in our own little spin, which is using different techniques like kadhwa, cutwork and tried to modernise its design for sure and also represent shikargah all over again in a much cooler and relevant manner, keeping in mind the trends that are going on in the fashion world.
The styling looks edgy...
I have styled it the way I style my saris. I want to make it look like couture and more fashionable. And, while it is Indian, I want a woman to feel like she can wear it anywhere. It doesn’t have to be necessarily only for a wedding. You need to start styling it differently.
Shorts have always been casual, right? The moment you start pairing it with heels and a formal shirt, it starts getting into a formal setting altogether. Like how Kristen Stewart wore shorts to the Oscars. How you want to present it is how you style it.
What kind of motifs do we see?
All shikargah motifs. It is an age-old technique where kings of certain states used to weave this textile inspired from the flora and fauna found in their state. We have used motifs that are already a part of shikargah and shown their animal skins and created saris out of that, like lion, leopard, snake... very interesting patterns.
Are you an animal lover yourself?
Sort of... I love animals. I love horses, dogs. I have ridden a horse.
With every edit, Ekaya has been reinventing Indian classics. How are more and more women wearing their saris?
Now women are becoming more experimental. In fact, my age bracket has gone down. When we are presenting the sari in a new way, many people are now excited to also experiment and see it in newer ways. There is a silver lining to see how one can style it in newer ways.
What’s your take on men wearing saris?
While it’s nice, as of now I would like to see more innovative ways in which men wear saris while making it look not too different. I am not a fan of becoming gender fluid by just wearing a skirt, when it doesn’t go with the personality. It must speak to you and be an extension of your personality. You shouldn’t do it because you are trying to make a statement or it’s a fad. I don’t consider myself to be too girlie, so I don’t end up wearing too many frocks because I don’t feel comfortable in them. I feel more comfortable in masculine clothes. It just enhances my confidence. In my opinion, men should wear what they feel confident in.
What do you feel about the general mediocrity in fashion?
I feel most designers create products to cater to the demand of the consumers, but 10 per cent or 20 per cent of their stock can be their creativity. While our motive is to sell, and we all want to make money but as designers, it is also our duty to educate consumers about what is trending and show them a new way of looking at things.
Ekaya’s pieces are one-off and exclusive but do you think there is an overwhelming sense of sameness everywhere?
I think so and it is important for people to break away and create something different. I feel it’s about time. You’ll be part of the gang for sure but you won’t be distinct.
Pictures courtesy the brand
