Art-based label Agnik Kolkata’s festive collection ‘Chalchitra’ is quintessentially Bengali and has an old-world charm to it. Simple yet striking. Designer Agnik Ghosh tells us more.
The collection is typically Bengali. Tell us about the motifs…
Well, this year’s festive collection talks about the long-lost tradition of making chalchitras, the ornate backdrop of Goddess Durga. Therefore all the ensembles and accessories developed comprises motifs, designs and patterns which are derived from various forms of chali making. Like for example the ‘Bangla Chali’ resembles a crescent moon. We have developed highly ornate blouses and jackets embellished with zardosi inspired by it. The ‘Muttchowree Chali’ has a pyramidal structure which inspired us to picturise the hanging lanterns at a queen’s chambers on silk-satin dresses. Shapes inspired pictures, which in turn inspired the myriad array of silhouettes.
Tell us about the artwork…
‘Chalchitra’ is a project which unifies three distinct genres of art in one — fine art, performing art and applied art. We have collaborated with some of the finest artists of the city to make this happen. Artists like Avik Boral, Aniruddha Sarkar and Arighna Saha have created these wondrous miniature art collectibles inspired by the art of chali making. In performing art, we have Debalina Dey who has created unique dance monologues known as ‘Chalir Nach’, and as for applied art, we have an array of beautiful clothes and jewellery.
The look on Pushpak Sen is so decadent. What was the influence?
Well, we named Pushpak ‘sarvanga-sundari’, beauty personified. Sarvasundari or sarvanga sundari is considered to be the most elaborate and decadent form of chali amongst all. So we envisioned his look to be appropriate to the idea of it. We created a beautiful silk blouse made ornate with ‘drop pearl’ technique, and draped him in a satin sari and accessorised with jewellery made of kundan and pearls, which stole the show.
The accessories look so statement as always. Our fave is the hair accessory…
The accessories are all inspired by forms and shapes of chalis. Our team efficiently crafted each and every piece to make it one of a kind. Like we made the ‘Mrinmayee’ neck art inspired by the traditional Bangla protima. ‘Patamani’, the wooden hairpin, is inspired by the pata painting on a quintessential chali. Each piece has a story which gives you the fragrance of Bengal’s tradition of Pujo.
This year’s festive collection talks about the long-lost tradition of making chalchitras, the ornate backdrop of Goddess Durga. Therefore all the ensembles and accessories developed comprises motifs, designs and patterns which are derived from various forms of chali making. ‘Chalchitra’ is a project which unifies three distinct genres of art in one. Fine art, performing art and applied art — Agnik Ghosh
How do you want a regular girl to style your designs this Puja?
The ensembles are made in a way so that they can be worn as coordinates as well as separates. The ornate blouses can very well be paired with solid silk and khadi saris. The kurtas and jackets can be very well teamed with churidars and dhotis. The jewellery can also be teamed with traditional as well as contemporary outfits.