ADVERTISEMENT

Shanghai to Kolkata, a souped-up Xiao Long Bao food trail

Slurpy, hearty, delicious — here’s why you should ‘bao’ down to this soupy dumpling

Roxanne Bamboat Published 15.10.24, 07:33 PM
Xiao Long Bao is a steamed pork dumpling full of broth or soup

Xiao Long Bao is a steamed pork dumpling full of broth or soup Shutterstock

My idea of a perfect meal is an all-you-can-eat dim sum buffet. These plump, wrapped parcels of steamed or fried goodness are my idea of a perfect meal. As much as I enjoy the Nepalese and Tibetan momos, my heart belongs to its Chinese counterpart and I’m always on a quest to find the best.

Trips to Singapore, Taiwan, China and Hong Kong are often spent eating at various restaurants to experiment. On one of my early trips to Singapore, I visited a popular Taiwanese restaurant called Din Tai Fung for my beloved dim sum and encountered my first ever Xiao Long Bao.

ADVERTISEMENT
You can watch the dumplings being made while waiting to be seated at Din Tai Fung in Singapore

You can watch the dumplings being made while waiting to be seated at Din Tai Fung in Singapore Roxanne Bamboat

Most dim sums are steamed – some pan-fried – and stuffed with meat or seafood but this particular dumpling is also filled with a gelatinous broth. Popularly referred to as the “soupy dumpling”, Xiao Long Bao is a steamed pork dumpling full of broth and one of the most sought-after dishes on the Din Tai Fung menu. Needless to say, it was love at first bite — or I should say first slurp — and it’s become a personal mission to visit this restaurant chain every where I can. The Taiwanese chain has really popularised this particular dim sum and it seems to have a fan following of its own.

On a trip to China, I thought I’d be eating dim sum for every meal. However, all through Beijing, I ended up sampling everything but these beloved dumplings. Somehow the dim sum experience eluded me. Until I went to Shanghai and soon realised I’ve come full circle, to the very birthplace of the Xiao Long Bao.

The Bao was first invented 200 years ago in the Nanxiang village in the Jianding district (20 minutes away from the city) and then found its way to downtown Shanghai and has since been a favourite. The Xiao Long Baos are usually made with ground pork (sometimes seafood) and a pork jelly mixed into the ground pork filling. It’s then wrapped in a wheat dumpling wrapper with pretty pleats on the top and then when steamed the jelly melts into a divine broth making it a soup filled dumpling. (It took me ages to figure out how they managed to get the soup inside the dumpling and thought it was genius when I discovered the process).

The giant-sized Tang Baos are popular in the markets of old Shanghai

The giant-sized Tang Baos are popular in the markets of old Shanghai Roxanne Bamboat

The average dim sum basket holds about 6 to 8 dumplings so you can imagine my surprise when I visited the old town in Shanghai to see every second cafe and restaurant selling these Xiao Long Baos the size of a small coconut! To the uninitiated, these seem like super-sized Xiao Long Bao but to the connoisseurs and locals these are Tang Baos. These are much bigger and end up being a meal in itself with more soup that you drink out of a straw. You’ll find these with crab or shrimp filling instead of pork but for traditionalists, the Xiao Long Bao is pork and the size of a golf ball easily eaten with a chopstick and a soup spoon.

That begs the question — how does one eat a dumpling full of soup? With the help of a chopstick or spoon (never a fork or you’ll pierce the dumpling and waste the soup), gently place it on a soup spoon. With the help of the chopstick, break the side slightly or nibble a small piece to allow the steam to escape, gently slurp the soup that fills the spoon and then with the chopstick pop the dim sum in your mouth. It takes a bit of practice but it’s worth it to enjoy the uniqueness of the soupy dumpling.

It takes some practice but the best way to have the Xiao Long Bao is using chopsticks and a soup spoon

It takes some practice but the best way to have the Xiao Long Bao is using chopsticks and a soup spoon Roxanne Bamboat

Shanghai might be a bit of a distance to travel when the craving or curiosity hits but you can always find these Xiao Long Baos a little closer to home in Kolkata

Royal China has a detailed dim sum menu and features a Chicken Shanghai Soup Dumpling. They’re often called Shanghai dumplings and in India you’ll find variations or chicken or pork filling but it is essentially a Xiao Long Bao. If you’ve never had one before, this is a great place to start.


Yauatcha is another popular spot for all sorts of dim sum ranging from the more popular siu mai to Cheung fung. The menu features a Chicken Shanghai Dumpling.

Pa Pa Ya is one of the few places that has a vegetable, chicken and a prawn version of Xiao Long Bao which is ideal if you’re looking for options.

Momo I Am is a popular chain in the city and a favourite for all types of momos. Their signature momo menu features unique dishes and includes the Xiao Long Bao.

Wok Up has a vast menu of different Asian fare but the momo section on their menu features the Chicken Soup Dumpling.

Follow us on:
ADVERTISEMENT