A prawn dish inspired by the fare served at shacks on Kovalam beach, activated charcoal dishes inspired by the coalfields of Asansol, pancake rolls in the style of Tibetan laphing or Kolkata-style chilli chicken — the brand new menu designed by Chef Saby for Barishh at south Kolkata’s South City Mall promise to spice up your evening out.
Barishh, a recent addition to Speciality Restaurants Limited — which is known for Mainland China, Cafe Mezzuna, Oh!Calcutta and more— has a new menu for Kolkata. Choosing to deviate from the ‘usual pub fare’, the restobar’s new menu embraces the ritual of snacking with people we love with the introduction of small plates. The spread is a collection of the best of local produce from across the country, and complements the cocktails and beverages on offer. The uniqueness of the menu comes from the little surprises and twists the chefs have crafted in the items that are recognisable fare for many.
Chef Saby puts finishing touches to the spread
Sabyasachi Gorai aka Chef Saby, a recipient of the National Tourism Award for India’s best chef — who recently curated a selection of mezzes for Cafe Mezzuna’s Forum Mall location — has imparted his special touch to Barishh’s menu.
In an exclusive conversation with My Kolkata Chef Saby explained the idea behind Barishh’s new infusions.
Going down memory lane
Charred Malai Broccoli
The new items at Barishh are simple but highlight each offering’s cultural background, focusing on “things we all love” and are familiar with, said the chef. “At Barishh, following my chosen and own style of cooking, I have used a very limited number of ingredients, sometimes even as few as four or five in the dishes. Thus, the thin gravy of Barishh’s Lal Maas is what Kolkata foodies will love, just as they would enjoy the pure authentic Ghee roast of Mangalore influence,” he added.
Moving away from recent trends in modern cooking where “people are cooking by default, simply adding an endless number of items in a single dish,” he said the idea of the new menu is about going back to your roots or down memory lane, and connecting with recipes and ingredients.
The recipes have understandably been tweaked to suit the needs of a bar set-up with a selection of 70 per cent vegetarian and 30 per cent non-vegetarian options.
Jungle Mahal Tokri Chat
Chef’s picks: While all the dishes are special, said the chef, these are the dishes he recommends - Tokri Chaat, Baked Samosas, Golgappas with two different water choices along with a Wasabi filling, activated Charcoal Coalfield Kachori and Charcoal Chicken both inspired from Asansol and the adjoining coalfields, Parsi Khari variations, Pizza Naan with Indian masalas and spices, pancake rolls inspired from the Tibetan laphing as well as the Laal Maas, truffle mushroom kofta, prawns with southern flavours and the Kolkata-style chilli chicken made the old-fashioned way.
Charcoal activated Raj Kachori Chat
Keeping it local
Chef Kingshuk, who is part of the operations, said that the idea behind the new dishes is to present Indian food with a difference — mini plates and sharing platters, presentation of popular foods through fine plating, and bringing a flavour of Bengal.
Highlighting some of these points, Chef Kingshuk said, “Mughlai Parathas, something many Bengalis profess their love for, will be served with the option of duck eggs as well. We have infused activated charcoal powder into some of the items and that is an inspiration drawn from the coalfields of Durgapur. So, you can enjoy our activated charcoal chicken, Raj Kachori Chats again with charcoal.”
Chef Kingshuk and (right) Chef Tanya Joshi
The idea is to combine drinks with Indian food, similar to what most people enjoy at home, but in an elevated setting. “All our dishes reflect the best dishes found across the country and all are a must try for the foodies,” added the chef. You can opt for a Laal Maas with a choice of Gobindobhog rice, roti or naan, and even noodles. The plus point, he said, is the portion size, designed in a way that “a single guest can enjoy only as much that he wants.”
Chef Tanya Joshi has been behind the creation of many of the items at Barishh and while speaking to My Kolkata she highlighted many items that had been inspired by popular street foods from across the country. The whole idea, she explained, was to bring alive flavours that are very comfortable to the palate but in an eclectic form.
Panditji panipuri, which comes with two choices of water
“Street food is important in the Indian food context, so items such as Kanpur Chat, Coalfield Raj Kachori Chat, phuchkas are there on the menu — flavours that are appealing to the palate but all in a new avatar.”
Chef’s picks: Chef Tanya’s pick was the cold appetiser inspired by the Tibetan laphing – a “signature item designed to impart a nice spicy soya taste to the eater.”
Hunter Laal Maas
My Kolkata favourites
Try the Kovalam Shack Prawns, which has flavours of coastal cuisine but with a twist. The Black Diamond Tikka from the tandoor and the Hunter Mutton Cigar — mutton wrapped in filo and baked — and the Law Garden Samosa come highly recommended.
Black Diamond Chicken
There is also an impressive spread of colourful, almost whimsical looking desserts that are inspired by Bengali and eastern Indian mishti and the sweets of Kolkata. There is a Nahoum’s inspired puff, Dudh Puli Milk Cake topped with custard, the Floral Honey Cake soaked in Earl Grey tea that has been inspired from the tea estates of Darjeeling, Coffee Estate Chocolate Cake and the Patishapta Cannoli. The star of the menu is the Oriya Chena Pora with Puri’r khaja crumbled over it.
The desserts are the handiwork of Chef Anurag and it is evident that he has made every attempt to bring alive the nature-inspired decor themes of Barishh into his creations.
The desserts on offer
BARISHH
Location: South City Mall, Shop n0 401, 4th floor, 375 Prince Anwar Shah Road, South City Complex, Jadavpur
Cost for two: Approx Rs 1,500 without alcohol and upwards of Rs 2,500 with alcohol.
