The lost flavours of the Mediterranean make their way to the Kolkata table as chef Viraf Patel curates a three-day pop-up on Levantine cuisine at The Salt House on Shakespeare Sarani. The pop-up is open to the public between February 3 and 5, upon prior booking only. While the six-course menu is available for dinner on Feb 3 from 8.30pm onwards; it is available for lunch on Feb 4 and 5 from 1.30pm onwards. My Kolkata gives you an exclusive glimpse of the meal — right from starters to desserts.
The Woodfire Pita and Black Bean Hummus for the star for (left) Saloni while (right) Prachi was wooed by the Turmeric Roasted Cauliflower
“Levantine cuisine was something that chef Viraf introduced us to when we started discussing a pop-up. Chef wanted to talk about the region as a whole and not just Parsi food,’’ said Saloni Jhunjhunwala, partner, The Salt House, on the conception of the idea. “What is special about the entire curation are the ingredients. Now I understand what he meant by going back to ‘Parsi roots’, it’s the ingredients he has gone back to,” added co-partner Prachi Saraogi.
First Course
A light starter with a dash of tanginess, perfectly setting the mood for the rest of the meal. The star of the dish? Roasted Carrots, accompanied by tamarind-infused yoghurt, curry butter and pistachio and almond duqqa.
Second Course
Spinach and Dill Kuku with Zereshk berry agrodolce and whipped yoghurt and (right) Turmeric Roasted Cauliflower with cauliflower crème and Zereshk berry agrodolce
For vegetarians, there is Turmeric Roasted Cauliflower with cauliflower crème and Zereshk berry agrodolce (a sauce made from the widely-cultivated berry in Iran) while for egg-etarians there’s Spinach and Dill Kuku (an egg-based dish in Farsi) with Zereshk berry agrodolce and whipped yoghurt. “Many ingredients like the pomegranate molasses, Zereshk berries and the beans have been sourced from the region they grow in, mostly from Iran,” shared chef Viraf.
Third Course
Eggplant with Spiced Shrimp and Crispy Black Rice Salsa & Toum and (right) Eggplant with Spiced Tomato and Crispy Black Rice Salsa & Toum
Seafood lovers can dig into the Eggplant with Spiced Shrimp and Crispy Black Rice Salsa & Toum, while vegetarians can indulge in Eggplant with Spiced Tomato and Crispy Black Rice Salsa & Toum. Toum, which is a garlic paste, gives it the right amount of pungency to match well with the eggplant and the citrusy tomatoes. “The idea is to let one ingredient shine through while everything else lends support and flavour,” said the chef, whose menu consists of one star ingredient per course.
Fourth Course
Black Bean Hummus with goat cheese and veggies and (right) Black Bean Hummus with spiced lamb and veggies
Dunk woodfired pita (unleavened bread) into Black Bean Hummus with goat cheese and veggies, or for meat lovers, Black Bean Hummus with spiced lamb and veggies, for a bite of the ordinary made extraordinary. The Middle Eastern dip is far from spicy, which makes it an excellent serve for all. “There are spices, but [the food is] not spicy. In some dishes, I have sprinkled a little bit of paprika or chilli. But the idea is not to be spicy at all. The ingredient has to shine through,” explained chef Viraf, who is a culinary consultant to The Salt House.
Fifth Course
Pardeli pilaf with pomegranate molasses and walnut relish with either (left) Braised Cabbage or (right) Braised Duck
You get a course of pardeli pilaf (meaning veiled pilaf) with pomegranate molasses and walnut relish with either Braised Duck or Braised Cabbage. “There is a lot of creativity in this dish, but at the same time, it’s a representation of what this cuisine may have been before the Parsis came to India. I have tried to bring in those flavours, but then I have also deconstructed it. For example, the duck would have been cooked with the walnuts and parsley and pomegranate in one pot. But I separated all those ingredients so that I can layer them on the plate,” explained the chef, when asked about the balance between creativity and research while curating the menu.
Sixth Course
The dessert consists of a yoghurt dish or Middle Eastern milk pudding, Rose Water Muhallebi with roasted grapes and Parsi sev. “The idea is to present a representation of what has happened to the cuisine. For example, today sev is eaten with dahi, but the Rose Water Muhallebi is what would have probably existed before. The berries come into play bringing along a balance of sweet and sour. With every region, we’re also bringing in the local flavour,” signed off the chef.
Cocktails
To complement the six-course meal, four cocktails are being shaken and stirred. You can choose between (L-R) Aperose [Aperol + homemade rose syrup + prosecco + carbonate water], Grape Beet Gin [Bulldog Gin + beetroot and honey syrup + red grape juice + bitters and tonic water], Pomegroni [Campari and pomegranate negroni, Bulldog Gin, Campari, pome juice and molasses] and (not in picture) Pistasour [Bulldog Gin + pistachio syrup + homemade limoncello + egg white and bitters].
My Kolkata pick
Spinach and Dill Kuku, Black Bean Hummus with spiced lamb, veggies and woodfire pita, Braised Duck, Rose Water Muhallebi.
For each course, chef Viraf heroes one ingredient
- Pop-up venue: The Salt House, Shakespeare Point, 40 Shakespeare Sarani, 6th floor, Kolkata - 700017
- To book your seat: Call 8047092574
- Price per person: Rs 2,800 all-inclusive
