A tradition that is only two-years old, today (July 7), we celebrate the succulent mixture of rice and meat cooked in one pot to form an aromatic and extravagant concoction we all know as biryani. On World Biryani Day, we asked Kolkatans about their favourite Biryani spots across town and the one memory they fondly recall with the dish at the centre of it. From Royal Indian to the ever-popular Arsalan, to the current frontrunner Dada Boudi, all the way to the most memorable pots made at home, here is what these Kolkatans had to say…
Tannistha Roy
Growing up as a ’90s kid in Kolkata, some of my fondest memories are tied to the aroma and taste of biryani, thanks to my father. He had a deep love for Kolkata's traditional biryani joints and weekends often meant exploring the city’s culinary heritage together. Our biryani adventures took us to multiple old and traditional places, each visit adding to the tapestry of our shared experiences.
Among all, the Royal Indian Hotel holds a special place in my heart. My father would narrate tales of the old city as we sat in the timeworn and charming establishment. The rustic interiors, the vintage decor, and the unpretentious atmosphere of Royal Indian Hotel fascinated me. It felt like stepping into a living museum, where each corner whispered stories of bygone eras. The biryani there was more than just food; it was a link to the city’s rich history — a perfect blend of succulent meat, aromatic rice, and subtle spices that danced on the palate.
Another reason for falling in love with this eatery is its location. The chaos of the bustling streets of Burra Bazar, the honking rickshaws, the vibrant crowds — it was all part of the biryani experience. Amidst this urban symphony, this venerable institution stood resilient, serving plates of steaming biryani that transcended the chaos with their taste. There was something wholesome about savouring a plate of biryani in Dharmatala; it was a blend of the old city’s charm and the dynamic energy of its people.
These outings with my father not only introduced me to the rich flavours of Kolkata's biryani but also instilled in me a deep appreciation for the city's cultural heritage. The memories of those times remain etched in my heart — a testament to the timeless allure of Kolkata's biryani and the joy of sharing it with loved ones.
— Tannistha Roy, 28, instructional designer
Arnab Deb
My first biryani memory dates back to when I was 10 or 11-years old. There's an old and popular cabin-style restaurant in Beleghata called Mukharuchi, known for their delicious biryani. Heading back from a mela with my family, we stopped at the eatery and that was my first time trying biryani. I was floored. The taste, the experience and the memory still stand out.
But, if we speak of the present, Dada Boudi Biryani in Barrackpore is my favourite. Their mutton liver curry is a must-try too.
— Arnab Deb, 35, corporate employee
Subhradeep Sinha
I always feel that cricket and biryani spark a special emotion in many of us. No matter which part of the country one is in, there will be some kind of biryani on offer although it might taste different in every place.
Being a biryani admirer, I have innumerable memories around it and it is really tough to pick one. However, there is one incident in Hyderabad that stands out for me.
On a Friday evening when everyone else was planning to celebrate at TGIF, I had nothing to do but get back to my PG accommodation. Suddenly, a colleague named Imran, with whom I developed a brotherly bond later, asked me to join him for dinner. He and I both had no other plans, and when he said he was alone in the city and there was no one to accompany him for iftar, I related to his loneliness and we set about to try Hyderabadi biryani.
He took me to Shah-Ghouse and ordered biryani. That biryani on that particular day was something beyond what words can express, because in the back of the mind I knew what was there for dinner at the PG and was thankful for the company and food that I was enjoying. That generous offer from him to an almost unknown person, also living on his own like him in a place far away from home, brought together two biryani lovers in a city they were trying to make their own.
— Subhradeep Sinha, 32, corporate employee
Sudataa Ray
Having been brought up in the area of the famous Dada Boudi Biryani, my favourite biryani place is just what you think it is. Like almost every other foodie, biryani is a staple for any kind of celebration. I remember a story from New Year’s Eve a few years ago. We had planned a biryani dinner to mark the last day of the year. However, the other Bengali staple, adda, had us friends awake all through the night, and so engrossed were we that we hardly realised when it was dawn. The biryani was cold, of course, by then. But how can you start a year without your favourite food? Sleep deprived as we were, we could not let the biryani wait any more. After all, sleep can wait, the year’s first biryani couldn’t. Thus, the planned dinner turned into an unplanned breakfast, followed by a nice long sleep. That is how special it is, no matter what, you don’t ditch your meal of biryani.
— Sudataa Ray, 35, teacher
Srijita Bose
I don’t quite remember the first time I had biryani, because the dish has been a staple at almost all our special events. My all-time favourite biryani would have to be our homemade biryani, affectionately known among family and friends as ‘Lob Da’r Biryani’. Low on masala, aromatic, and made with pure ghee, it has a distinct flavour of its own. The best part of the biryani is the indispensable alu, bursting with flavour. Be it birthday parties or just an extended family get-together, Lob Da’r Biryani is a must.
If I had to choose one Kolkata-style biryani outlet in Kolkata that I find delectable, it would be Arsalan at Park Circus. Their mutton biryani together with the chaap is something I feel I can have at any time.
— Srijita Bose 31, teacher
Ayaskanta Dey
The first time I tasted biryani was at 12, and it remains my favourite biryani memory. In 2012, when in Class VII, my family and I were on our way to Puri for a vacation. Our train had multiple delays, first by two hours and then by five, turning our excitement into frustration as we waited on the platform. To lift our spirits, my aunt decided to order biryani from a local joint near the station. This was quite a rare treat back then, since biryani, being a gourmet dish, was typically reserved for bigger restaurants, not small local joints. Despite its humble origin, that first bite of biryani was pure magic. It transformed our gloomy wait into a joyful experience, making the hours pass by with newfound excitement. And countless mouthfuls of biryani later, I remain as big a fan of the delicacy as I have ever been.
Today, Dada Boudi Biryani in Barrackpore is my favourite, with their unmatched quality and quantity. Their history and growth in the city are inspiring, and their mutton liver curry and betki fish fry are must-tries too.
— Ayaskanta Dey, 24, corporate lawyer
