While the Kolkata biryani has made its place in the hearts of the city’s and global foodies, Awadhi biryani has also been receiving a lot of love worldwide. If you ask a Kolkata biryani lover about their second favourite, the answer, probably, would be the Awadhi biryani, aka Lucknowi biryani. The alu in the Kolkata biryani is undoubtedly the showstopper, along with a tender piece of mutton or chicken, and flavourful rice feels comforting. On the other hand, the Awadhi biryani, without the alu, has a moist texture and feels lighter with fine flavours. But that’s not the only difference. My Kolkata spoke to experts Manzilat Fatima and Sima Ahmed on World Biryani Day to understand the nuances and notes that set the two varieties apart.
Chef Manzilat Fatima is also the great-great-granddaughter of Wajid Ali Shah
It is now well known that the Kolkata biryani actually evolved from the Awadhi biryani. Manzilat Fatima, the great-great-granddaughter of Wajid Ali Shah and daughter of Dr Kaukub Qudr Meerza, says, “When Nawab Wajid Ali Shah was banished to Kolkata from Lucknow, he came to Metiabruz and turned it into a mini-Lucknow. His khansamas also came along with him. He missed his home and through food, he found comfort. That's how biryani was first introduced to the city.”
The biryani that the nawab relished in his royal kitchen was of course, Awadhi-style. However, as history narrates, the nawab was a foodie and he was the one who started adding the potato to the biryani. While many say that this addition was prompted by the banished nawab's financial status, Manzilat explains her side of history. “We are talking about a time when potatoes were not as cheap as they are today. It was not cultivated widely in India. The Portuguese introduced it in the 17th century and it was an exotic vegetable. That's why it found a place in the royal kitchen. It was not like the nawab couldn't afford meat,” she clarified.
Besides the potato, the Kolkata biryani can be distinguished from Awadhi biryani by its cooking technique. The owner of the home diner, Manzilat's, explained, “In the Kolkata biryani, you first make a korma of the meat, while in the Awadhi biryani you cook the meat with the rice. That’s why the latter is not as dry or jhorjhore as the Kolkata biryani is. In my Kolkata biryani, I use around 15 kinds of spices. But the Awadh biryani is less spicy. It has the distinct flavours of nutmeg and mace.”
At Manzilat's, biryani lovers come for her Awadhi biryani, seeking its authentic taste. But lately, Manzilat has also noticed an affinity for the Lucknowi biryani among her patrons.
Awadhi-style biryani is home-cooked biryani for many Muslim families in Kolkata. Especially those having roots in Lucknow. Sima Ahmed, owner of Sima's Kitchen Secrets and MasterChef India Season 8 contestant, lived in Faizabad, Uttar Pradesh, before she moved to Kolkata after marriage. But she was introduced to Kolkata biryani for the first time when she was visiting her grandmother in Kolkata. “Biryani for us was always Awadhi biryani at home. But my grandmother lived in Kolkata and once she made Kolkata biryani for us with the alu, and we were all surprised. The potato was soft and flavourful, while the rice was rich. It was very different from the biryani we had. It felt heavier in the stomach, but we loved it.”
Sima Ahmed’s Awadhi biryani is much in demand at her pop-ups and cloud kitchen menu
Popular for her Awadhi cuisine, the home chef's Awadhi biryani is much in demand at her pop-ups and cloud kitchen menu. “I have been making Awadhi biryani since I started my cloud kitchen. It is something different for the customers. The feedback has been positive, as people found the Awadhi biryani to be light and not too rich. But many times people have told me that they missed the potato. So now, when someone requests, I add the potato to the Awadhi biryani too,” laughs Sima.
In Kolkata, there are a handful of restaurants that offer Awadhi-style biryani — like Oudh 1590, Arsalan, Aminia, Biryani By Kilo and others. But will the popularity of Awadhi biryani overtake Kolkata biryani? Manzilat opined, “Kolkata biryani is now world famous. Everywhere you see, people are talking about it. I don't know if there is a tough competition. But Awadhi biryani is definitely loved after Kolkata biryani over any other biryani variants.”
According to Sima Ahmed, the two hold their own significance. “The Awadhi biryani brings about a change to the palate. It is light and not as dry as the Kolkata biryani, so many people love it. My customers say that there is a homely touch to the Awadhi biryani I make. For Kolkata biryani, it is rich and has more flavours, so many people prefer that. Both have their individuality.”
So this World Biryani Day, which biryani will be on your plate?
