On a recent trip to Dubai, I uncovered a city of great gastronomy that doesn’t mean taking out a bank loan and doesn’t have you sitting in spaces surrounded by concrete. In fact, life away from downtown can have a resort-like feel (as I discovered at Anantara at The Palm). Dubai officially now has the greatest number of restaurants per capita in the world. You can eat very well in this city and if you take advantage of the amazing business lunch deals in many of the top restaurants (Roka, Fouquet’s, Hutong, La Petite Maison, Zuma, Coya, Trèsind… you get the drift) it can also be great value for money. Trending are beach clubs, the emergence of local cuisine, rooftop bars and breakfasts. These are my picks on this short trip…
Nobu by the Beach
The iconic Black Cod with Miso is served as bite-sized morsels in butter lettuce cups at Nobu by The Beach Atlantis The Royal
This is the debut pool and beach club by one of the world’s most iconic restaurants. It blends modern cool luxury and minimalistic Japanese tradition into the concept of a luxury pool and beach club in the ultra-spectacular new Atlantis The Royal on The Palm. I love Nobu and am familiar with the menu, but this version blew me away. The globally-acclaimed Black Cod with Miso is served as bite-sized morsels in butter lettuce cups. A must-have, of course. I loved the Baby Spinach Salad in a sesame truffle dressing topped with a heap of crispy shiitake mushrooms (fried they told me, but there was no hint of oil). The new style Salmon Sashimi usually flashed with hot oil at the table is served as a starter or in tacos.
Lobster had two ways at Nobu by the Beach – grilled and tempura; (right) a tall glass of Pisco & Tonic Karen Anand; Atlantis The Royal
Instead of the Rock Shrimp Tempura, a simple dish that Nobu does exceptionally well, we had the lobster in two ways – grilled and tempura. There’s nothing “bite-sized” about the menu, which features tons of sushi, sashimi and even Nobu sandwiches. Wash it down with a Pisco & Tonic — all to DJ house music. And if you want to linger, there are loungers and pools and beautiful people everywhere. A stellar experience… sort of Ibiza on steroids. Works. Preferable October-end to March.
Nobu at Atlantis (lunch deal)
For AED 165 (a complete steal), every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 12.30pm to 3.30pm, the two-course lunch menu begins with an extensive list of 14 starters, including White Fish Dry Miso, Prawn Dumplings, Seafood Ceviche, Shrimp Tempura and so on and you choose from nine dishes for the main course from Sea Bass Jalapeno Shiso, Roasted Duck Orange Miso, and Lamb Chops
Wasabi Pepper. All accompanied by Crispy Spicy Garlic Rice. For an additional AED 50, guests can select the Beef Tenderloin Amazu, or the signature Black Cod Miso.
Jun’s by Kelvin Cheung
Kelvin Cheung with Karen Anand Karen Anand
A great ending to our week spent well in Dubai and one of the best meals we had in the city. We chose to go the whole nine yards and had the 11-course menu. There’s a vegetarian version too. Each dish on the menu has a story behind it. The Indian sounding ones like the Pani Puri (here served with butter poached lobster and tamarind fluid gel) and the Fish Congee, which is more like a khichdi, are influenced by Kelvin Cheung’s many years in India. According to him, who explains every course to every guest, “Dubai is the best place in the world to live currently. It is the quality of life for you and your family and perfect to develop a brand,” he told me. They also do a very affordable business lunch – two courses for only 110 AED and three courses for 130 AED.
Fish Congee chefkelvincheung/Instagram
The lunch deal includes some of my favourites from his tasting menu – the Wagyu Beef Pot Sticker, Shrimp in a Chilli Crunch and doused in the most flavoursome hot and sour broth; Miso Sea Bass with Claypot Rice and a Hot Honey Chicken Sandwich. Memorable. Tradition, taste and skill.
Ling Ling
Located on the 22nd and 23rd floors of Atlantis The Royal, Ling Ling Terrace offers views of the glittering Dubai skyline and Arabian Gulf Atlantis The Royal
Ling Ling is what’s called an ‘ultra-lounge experience’. They serve contemporary Asian dishes meant for sharing — coupled with an extensive drinks menu, an exquisite dining space and an eclectic, high-energy soundtrack. You are supposed to evolve from drinking to dining to dancing — in no particular order. And on a mid-week evening, it was packed with beautiful people in slinky party wear. On the 22nd and 23rd floors of Atlantis The Royal, it overlooks the resort’s expansive Skypool and Cloud 22 with partial views of the glittering Dubai skyline and Arabian Gulf. Dishes to try are the Salt and Pepper Calamari, Crispy Duck Bao, King Crab and Pomelo Salad and Black Pepper Asparagus Dumpling. I absolutely loved the Veg Fried Rice and the Tom Yum Fried Rice. Winners for me. There’s a huge menu of Japanese sushi and sashimi and like many fine-dining restaurants in Dubai, they serve caviar. Good vegetarian options, too. Simple stunning dishes packed with flavour. Go to Ling Ling to eat well, groove and to people-watch.
Bushman’s
Bushman’s at Anantara The Palm Dubai serves up hearty portions, succulent cuts and premium Aussie beverages www.anantara.com
A steakhouse with a distinct Australian flair. The emphasis is on high-quality Australian Wagyu, Black Angus, and a variety of beef cooked in different styles — sous-vide, slow-cooked and grilled on a Josper grill. The idea of including slow-cooked meats, alongside options like the rib-eye and the impressive 1.2kg 300-day-old grain-fed Tomahawk, shows that they really cater to various preferences. I had the ribeye, which was absolutely melt-in-the-mouth. Those who don’t eat steak will not be disappointed. There’s oysters, seafood and what’s called a Backyard Mushroom Soup, which definitely adds an Aussie touch. The casual atmosphere and quick service, along with a peek into the open kitchen, where you can see the impressive Josper grill, give it a laid-back yet high-quality vibe. Even though it’s not a restaurant for vegetarians, they do have a few veggie and vegan options like the Vegan Burger and pasta. Great for steak lovers.
Bistro Aamara
Chef Ritwik Sarkar with one of his creations and (right) Zaatar Kebab Karen Anand
From the award-winning Trèsind stable comes the more casual Bistro Aamara with Chef Ritwik Sarkar at the helm. If you’re in Downtown and on Sheikh Zayed Road, in the vicinity of Dubai Mall or the Museum of the Future, and you’re dying for Indian flavours, this is the place to come. Ritwik is a young, dynamic chef who has as many tricks up his sleeve as he does cuisines. He calls the menu an interpretation of the Silk Route. Hmmm. I wouldn’t go down that road. More like forward-thinking Indian or inventive European or modern Indian. He has some lovely starters with cucumber and tender coconut and a whipped yoghurt chaat but what really impressed me was his Butter Chicken and Biryani. Also try the Kazak-style samsa or samosa, which is, he says, one of the most popular items on the menu. Like many successful Indian chefs abroad, Ritwick was trained in European kitchens and has incorporated some creative European dishes on the menu. There is a confit of duck leg and waffle, a cheese burger and a Moroccan-inspired lamb stew. The herbed khamiri roti, a bit like a fluffy naan, is amazing. And for dessert, I must recommend his baklava (which looks a little bit like a cannelloni) but is super crisp. Lots for vegetarians.
Tea at the One & Only Royal Mirage
The Samovar Lounge’s high tea experience blends English traditions with local Arabian touches Karen Anand
The One & Only Royal Mirage looks like a timeless, luxurious escape, with its opulent interiors. It was the first luxury hotel in Dubai to use Arabic-style architecture to create a palace-like ambience. The variety of international dining options from Moroccan cuisine at Tagine to Mauro Colagreco’s Celebrities and Beach Bar & Grill, is stunning. We opted for The Samovar Lounge's high tea experience, which blends English traditions with local Arabian touches. The mix of scones with lemon curd and strawberry compote, alongside mint tea, Arabic coffee, and plump Al Ain dates, is pretty unique. It’s the perfect setting for a sophisticated afternoon with friends, or even for a more formal, elegant meeting. It's the kind of place you should bring mummy and her friends for tea. Wear your twin set and pearls or your latest designer outfit or lounge around in a silk kaftan. Screams old-fashioned luxury.
