His smile is reminiscent of his food. Both inspire unabashed joy.
Andrew Yeo, corporate executive chef, Cantonese brands, Tao Group Hospitality is at the helm of two large global culinary brands, Yauatcha and Hakkasan. Four Hakkasan restaurants around the world are Michelin-starred (two in London, and one each in Dubai and Abu Dhabi). Yeo spent his inaugural trip to Kolkata, treating it to ‘Four Hands Chef’s Table’, a love letter for Cantonese cuisine. My Kolkata caught up with the ace chef to talk about his journey. Edited excerpts from the conversation…
My Kolkata: What were your earliest experiences with food?
Andrew Yeo: My grandmother was a great cook, and the biggest influence in my life. As a child, I learnt the biggest lesson of my life by watching: always cook with passion. Funnily enough, my first exploits in the kitchen were with her, doing something that is completely different from what I do now. She would come home only on weekends, which is why I treasured her cooking so much. Elderly people don’t have recipes, but they still make great food through pure intuition. I would bake with her, and she always told me, ‘Just add one more egg’. I would ask her how she was so sure, but she insisted. And just like that, I would see the cakes rise in the oven. Baking with her was the truest form of happiness for me. She also instilled a discipline to work hard in order to achieve what I wanted. Her warmth is the reason that I enjoy giving back, by sharing my cooking with guests. I am where I am, because of her.
What inspired you to pursue the culinary arts as a career?
My interest started as a young boy who was just cooking at home. A turning point happened when I was in school, and we had a culinary competition where we were put into groups. When you’ve learnt something, you stand out amongst your peers. I led my group from the front, and we won in the ‘Best Taste’ and ‘Best Flavour’ categories. Everyone around me asked, “Why don’t you become a chef?” (smiles) At that moment, the realisation dawned upon me as I asked myself, “Can I become a chef?” I enrolled in a culinary school in Singapore, and after graduating, I joined The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore in 2001. That’s where I cemented my foundation.
Who were your biggest mentors?
My first mentor in the culinary world was from my first job at The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore. You always remember everything about your first job. Our head chef was known around the country for organising culinary competitions. When I joined the company, I knew there would be lots to learn from him about surviving in the fast-paced culinary world. Besides that, we work with so many celebrity chefs throughout the year, and they have a huge influence in helping us do what we are doing today.
Yauatcha arrived in Kolkata in 2015 at Quest Mall. In India, the brand also has its presence in Bengaluru and Mumbai Sannidh Raychaudhuri
What are some of the most important lessons you've learned in your 20-year career?
My biggest takeaway, gained especially after working at a Michelin-star restaurant (Hakkasan) is to stay consistent. A lot of restaurants initially do well, but can’t back up the good work in the long run. Guests will only come back for consistency. My second takeaway is to never stop innovating. Always do something new, so that you stay at the cusp of the culinary revolution.
As the corporate executive chef for Cantonese brands at Tao Group Hospitality, what are your responsibilities? How do you oversee brands like Hakkasan and Yauatcha?
I put a lot of emphasis on our weekly calls, and make it a point to catch up with our chefs regularly. This helps us understand our operational challenges, look for new menu ideas, and inspire us to innovate with our dishes. We also get together for global events to exchange perspectives. Just last week, I was with one of my chefs in Abu Dhabi and we drew out plans for a Michelin-star dinner. Our motto is to stay connected, in order to stay ahead of innovation.
Hakkasan Hanway Place, London Hakkasan
Can you share some insights into the uniqueness of Cantonese cuisine? How do you incorporate them into your dishes at Yauatcha?
At Yauatcha, we stand out for bringing the craft of dim sums to the table, aided by our lovely wok dishes. Because of this, we incorporate different flavours of dim sums into our menu. Even for today’s dim sum menu, I used scallops and curry sauce, which is highly unusual. Cantonese cuisine is all about balancing flavours, be it sweet or spicy, and that is what we focus on while preparing our menu. The core of our food is always Cantonese, but we provide a few modern touches to give guests something different. Moreover, I know that if we are to cater to an Indian audience, we must use the highest quality of natural ingredients, and the best locally-sourced flavours.
Vegan XO Dumpling made with a vegan XO sauce, Shanghai Scallop Dumpling and Roasted Duck Puff. ‘The core of our food is Cantonese, but we provide a few modern touches to give guests something different,’ says Yeo Sannidh Raychaudhuri
Are there any ingredients or cooking techniques that you are especially passionate about?
Many people know about XO sauce. It is of high value, created with dry scallops and prawns. While innovating for India, we wanted more guests to enjoy it, so we created a vegan XO sauce without any seafood. We used the umami flavour of mushrooms to create our XO sauce, and it elevated our dumplings. I enjoy working with fire while cooking wok dishes, because heat can truly transform food. We don't want our food to be too saucy. Instead, our approach is to retain a sauteed meat base.
You've had the opportunity to work in various locations around the world. How has this influenced your approach to cooking?
My job definitely involves a lot of moving around, and I've had the good fortune of eating at great restaurants around the world. Even if it isn’t a Michelin-star restaurant, I make it a point to visit their kitchen. I always pick up something interesting, whether it is a new trend or a different cooking style, and look for ways to bring it back to my kitchen. I enjoy mixing and matching styles that I observe in different parts of the world, even if it has to do with the kitchen layout. That’s how we grow.
Is this your first time in Kolkata?
Yes! Unfortunately, I haven't had the chance to see the city, as I have been in the kitchen at Yauatcha Quest Mall all day. But I did have a great breakfast, comprising three types of Indian breads. I am so impressed by the breads here, they are completely different from anything I have seen in the world. I am very new to Indian cuisine, but this city’s flavours have inspired me and my chefs to create more different ideas and tastes.
