Ramazan is the season for non-stop delicacies and one such seasonal top fave is the haleem. Be it with chunks of mutton or beef, or minced and mashed meat, each place has its own secret recipe and flavour.
And how could we let this season get away without getting you the best of haleem in town. The Telegraph set out on a haleem trail with Gaurav Soneja, general manager, ITC Royal Bengal, for company, and here’s getting you some action from the four different haleem hotspots that we visited.
During Ramazan, a dedicated haleem counter is made outside and mainly two different types of haleem, chicken and mutton, are sold. This is a great spot for those that don’t enjoy red meat as very few spots in the city serve a chicken haleem. “It was really aromatic, without being overpowering,” said Gaurav who tucked into a small bowl. (left), “This is just so lovely and creamy. I’ve not tried haleem like this before, we’re definitely ordering some of this back at the hotel someday,” exclaimed Gaurav who intently noted the recipe of the dish (right)
FIRST STOP: SHAIKH’S
Located in the bustling by-lane of Beckbagan Row is this two-and-a-half-yearold eatery that has been making quite the waves for its stellar Middle Eastern fare and some of its bestselling beef items.
We were greeted by owner Rukhshi Kadiri Elias, who also has done all the chef training and recipes at the restaurant. Known majorly for their Beef Haleem, Shaikh’s has also introduced a few mutton dishes for customers preferring the meat.
We were served a creamy Yemeni Harissa, which is quintessentially a mashed meat and lentil preparation. “A staple of the Middle Eastern war zone yesteryears with origins in Yemen, Harissa is a wholesome dish. Husked wholewheat, softened and simmered with other pulses, mashed laboriously together with meat, fresh ingredients and aromatic spices into a thick porridge consistency. It’s served with ghee and birista, coriander and mint leaves, and juliennes of ginger and lime. Savour it with or without bread,” is how she describes the dish that we tasted.
“The haleem here has a great whiff of the garam masala, and a great smokiness to it,” added Gaurav who has a strong F&B background as well.
2ND STOP: SHIRAZ GOLDEN RESTAURANT
This popular biryani and Mughlai eatery on Park Street-Park Circus crossing was started in 1941 and has been flourishing ever since. The restaurant is themed around Awadh, erstwhile Lucknowbased cuisine and follows the dum pukht pattern of cooking.
A very intrigued Gaurav experimented with the long ladle and cauldron. We tried the Mutton Haleem here which is a major speciality and is known for its Awadhi flavours.
As we traversed through the jam-packed lanes of Zakaria Street, now all decked up in festive fervour with stalls and shops on either side, and buyers and sellers creating the perfect chaos, Gaurav recalled his days at ITC Maurya in Delhi and how frequenting Jama Masjid area at night during Ramazan would be a regular tradition.
3RD STOP: SUFIA RESTAURANT
Our third spot was an eatery that’s an icon in the city for many reasons. Located right opposite the picturesque Nakhoda Masjid on Zakaria Street, it’s always packed with people coming in to grab their faves.
A major lunch special here is the Tamatar Gosht — a tomato and beef gravy. The restaurant is a hotspot in winter for its Beef Nehari, which gets sold out almost every day by sunrise. During Ramazan, Beef Haleem is a major attraction, and we tried the same. The recipe for this haleem too has been in the family for many years and every night the secret keepers add the spices in private so that the formula remains intact and isn’t leaked out.
LAST STOP: BASHIR
This eatery is in itself a seasonal one. It springs up only in Ramazan and sells just three items, Beef and Mutton Haleem, Chicken Chatpata, a reddish fried chicken, and biryani.
The family is essentially a family of biryani bawarchis that cater to most Muslim weddings in the city. Cooked on wildfire, using their own recipe, they cater to events as well as sell biryani by the cauldron or deg as we call it.
This haleem is a fave for those in the region and gets sold out almost every day!