The first Indian restaurant in Chicago to get a Michelin star? Indienne
The first Bengali chef from India to make that happen? Sujan Sarkar
The boy who was born and brought up in Kalyani, West Bengal, has been making waves in the USA, particularly with Indienne. This contemporary Indian dining restaurant, co-owned with an investor group, has become Chef Sujan Sarkar’s canvas for redefining the culinary landscape. Nestled within a 19th-century printing warehouse and transformed into a vibrant space by Sarkar, Indienne is where he unfolds the boundless possibilities of Indian cuisine through a lens of progressive fine dining.
Sarkar, not confined to the success of Indienne alone, is also at the helm of Baar Baar, spanning both New York and Los Angeles. Prior to this, his journey included the triumph of Rooh in San Francisco, a place where our paths first crossed in 2017. We caught up with Sarkar to congratulate him on the recent Michelin star win for Indienne and explore the narrative that paved the way for this achievement.
My Kolkata: Congratulations, chef! I can only imagine the flurry of calls and messages you must be receiving.
Sujan Sarkar: Thank you! Yes, my phone has been busier than usual. I’m currently in the midst of an event in Miami, and the outpouring of congratulatory messages has been overwhelming. I am grateful for all the love and support.
I heard you received a special call from your friend Sudip Mullick in Kolkata?
I’m thrilled today because Sudip (co-owner and fourth generation at Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick) called me and told me I’m probably the first Bengali chef whose restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star!
Were you expecting Indienne to receive a Michelin star?
Let’s just say it wasn’t a complete surprise! Indienne opened a little over a year ago in September 2022, and the team has been putting in tremendous effort. The restaurant has already received recognition, such as Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America, so we had an inkling that a Michelin star might be in the cards. Interestingly, the Michelin Guide results in Chicago are usually out by April, but this time it happened later.
Tell us more about Indienne and what makes it special to you.
In the last two years, after the pandemic, I started building my own business. Indienne is particularly close to my heart as it’s the first restaurant I can truly call my own. I literally saw it being built from the ground up, brick by brick, during the pandemic. I live in Streeterville, Chicago, and the restaurant is in River North, under a mile away. We offer a proper fine dining experience with a 90-cover capacity, an extensive wine list and a distinctive seasonal tasting menu, which, in particular, has gained recognition. For example, tonight is Thursday, we have 110 tasting menu covers!
The interiors of Indienne. ‘We are fine dining but not stiff; creating that atmosphere is not easy,’ said Sujan
[For Diwali, Indienne is having a six-course tasting menu, featuring pop picks like Passion Fruit (pani puri with buckwheat tart, green apple, and sorrel), shrimp (keema with poached egg, malai curry mousse, pao), and paneer (paturi with Swiss chard, pepper makhani, fenugreek butter). Priced at $135 per person, with the option of an additional $70 for curated wine pairings. Check out the website for more details]
As someone who has worked in various Michelin-starred restaurants, what do you believe clicked for Indienne?
Securing a Michelin star is no stroke of luck; it’s a result of dedicated effort. We didn’t set out with the sole goal of earning a Michelin star, but it happened organically. The entire team, both in the front and back of the house, is driven and motivated. Personally, I’m deeply involved in the process. My culinary creations are authentic and original — not replicas. When I see other Indian restaurants drawing inspiration from my dishes, it’s genuinely flattering. Building a world-class restaurant entails more than just exceptional cuisine; it demands top-notch service.
Are there any Bengali flavours on the menu at Indienne?
I embrace a global culinary approach with strong ties to India to cater to a broad audience. However, I love my Bengali / Kolkata flavours and so we do a Scallop with Uni (sea urchin) Malai Curry, as well as a Quinoa Jhal Muri. My dishes are visually striking, but also designed for simplicity in dining. I would love to do a complete Bengali tasting menu, maybe in Chicago, or even in Kolkata.
Scallop with Uni (sea urchin) Malai Curry and (right) Quinoa Jhal Muri at Indienne, Chicago
How is your other restaurant, Baar Baar, performing?
Baar Baar in New York has been thriving for six years, and the recently opened one in LA is gaining momentum. I have a strong feeling that Baar Baar might earn a Michelin star next year.
Where is your family currently, and what was their reaction to the award?
My parents and one brother are in Kalyani. While my mother expressed happiness, I had to sweetly explain the significance of the Michelin recognition. My brother, Pujan, is in San Francisco overseeing Rooh. As for me, I’m based in Chicago but frequently on the move. Currently, I’m immersed in an event in Miami, leaving little time for rest!
Finally, when can we see you in Kolkata?
I’ve got a visit in the works for January, so stay tuned for more details.
