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I like eating, I like indulging… that’s what I love about gastronomy: Marco Pierre White

The chef extraordinaire on his love for Indian cuisine, butter and olive oil, and the three qualities of a great chef

Urvashi Bhattacharya Published 25.08.23, 03:57 PM
Chef Marco Pierre White

Chef Marco Pierre White

In the world of haute cuisine, few names resonate as strongly as chef Marco Pierre White. His journey has been nothing short of extraordinary. From earning three Michelin stars at the age of 33 (and later returning them!) to mentoring a generation of renowned chefs, White’s influence on the culinary world is massive. Even in the first few seasons of MasterChef Australia, his challenges were tough like him; we loved his disciplined attitude and something about seeing him on screen put us on our toes.

The same Marco Pierre White made his way to Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai on August 18, to host a masterclass to showcase his culinary brilliance followed by an exquisite dinner curated by the chef himself. The tour, organised by World On A Plate, kicked off in Mumbai and made its way to Bangalore on August 19 and 20. World On A Plate is a platform that curates culinary events, bringing chefs from around the world to India, for an up-and-close experience.

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During the masterclass at Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, White featured two dishes, the Risotto alla Milanese, a classic Italian comfort food and his signature Lamb Wellington

During the masterclass at Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, White featured two dishes, the Risotto alla Milanese, a classic Italian comfort food and his signature Lamb Wellington

Excerpts from an email chat with the firebrand British chef during his visit to India…

My Kolkata: Can you tell us a little about the Indian food experience in Britain? What’s being talked about?

Marco Pierre White: Well, firstly, Indian cuisine is without question one of the great cuisines in the world. There are very few countries in the world that understand how to use spices like Indians. In England, we have lots of Indian restaurants and we have very good consumers. So, therefore, the biryani is very good. The way that the rice and the meat are cooked makes a difference. I think there’s a restaurant near where I live that is very nice. Owned by an old man, it’s very traditional, very simple. Not trying to be flashy and it’s very good. What it says on the menu, that’s what it is.

What’s a ‘deliciously dirty’ dish at the top of your mind?

I like the combination of butter and olive oil together. I think psychologically since I’m eating butter, it’s not good, it’s delicious. But what would be incredible is combining the two and then it is a sensation. I like food, I like eating, I like indulging… that’s what I love about gastronomy. It is the whole indulgence of it. Guess what it is not about? Little small portions. I don’t like them. I didn't get as big as I got by eating like that. The technical abilities are very exciting. It’s all well and good, but what’s real? A nice big portion. So something with a lot of butter or fat, that’s my kind of meal.

‘Something with a lot of butter or fat, that’s my kind of meal,’ says White

‘Something with a lot of butter or fat, that’s my kind of meal,’ says White www.marcopierrewhite.com

You once said: ‘I love a pan, I love a flame, I love a knife, and I love a large board. Everything’s got to be an extension of you’: Can you share a specific culinary moment where you felt this connection strongly?

When I lost my mother, I turned to nature. So, I spent my life in the English countryside. And not realising until later in life that Mother Nature became my surrogate mother. And that’s why I say great cooks have three things in common. You don’t have to have Michelin stars to be a great cook. Firstly, they accept and respect that Mother Nature is the true artist. They’re just the cook. Secondly, everything that they do comes from within them. It’s an extension of them. And thirdly, and most importantly, they give you great insights into the world that inspired them and give you the great insight into the world they were born into... and they set it on that plate. That’s what great cooks do. I came from a world where the chef’s position was behind the stove. As I say, a chef is allowed to stray from the stove but he has to stay close to the flame. When I was behind the stove, we worked long hours and served over 200 dishes in a day. We learned the true meaning of working hard.

Finally, tell us about your experience at Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, where you stayed and hosted the masterclass and dinner.

I had the best lamb biryani for lunch at San:Qi, which was just sensational, with the lamb cooked on the bone. I enjoyed it because the person who cooked my biryani had great knowledge, he or she had to work very hard to obtain that knowledge. And it was amazing knowledge!

I don’t remember the last time I had a biryani that was as good. And then the service... they are understated. I look at what I’m given and I look at what I get in Europe and I think I could live here.

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