Who doesn’t like south Indian cuisine! This time around, The Salt House is hosting a special ‘Weekend Pop-up Thali’ much to the delight of Kolkata foodies. The menu has been specially curated and prepared by Chef Sivakami Subbiah, who is also a teacher, food consultant and home caterer. The food pop-up has been organised in association with My Kolkata as the Digital Media Partner.
Savour the flavours of Chettinad — with a variety of dishes that include crabs, mutton, Jackfruit Biryani, dosa, Ladies Finger Mandi, chutneys, buttermilk and more, incorporated in the traditional thali.
Speaking on the occasion, Prachi Saraogi, partner, The Salt House, said, “The idea behind all our pop-ups is to share different culinary experiences. Chettinad cuisine is famous all over the world. It’s a unique flavour palate with a balance – sweet, bitter, sour, spicy, umami. One of the reasons we were very interested in bringing Sivakami was because we celebrate Women’s Day in March. Sivakami curated the entire meal, but I gave her inputs, keeping in mind the Kolkata crowd and their palate.”
What’s on the plate?
Vatha Kuzhambu, Brinjal Drumstick Sambar and dosa
You can start with spiced buttermilk with cumin and curry powder. The food is served in traditional style on a banana leaf. The lavish vegetarian spread has dishes like Cabbage Poriyal and Ladies Finger Mandi. It is cooked with mango, which lends the much desired sourness. You also get Elephant Yam Masala and Cluster Beans Vadai, which resembles small vadas, besides Vatha Kuzhambu and Brinjal Drumstick Sambar.
Jackfruit Biryani, Curry Leaf Podi Rice and Chow Chow Raita
Among the rice offerings, there is Jackfruit Biryani and Curry Leaf Podi Rice that is served with Chow Chow Raita. One can have a choice of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dosas, including Podi Dosai, Tomato Dosai, Plain Dosa and Keema Dosa. Crab masala and Mutton Chukka are two non-vegetarian dishes that suit the average Bengali palate. The juicy and succulent crab with the tender mutton pieces are a delight to dig into.
Crab masala and Mutton Chukka
A Chettinad thali is incomplete without chutneys. So, say hello to Tomato Red Chilli Chutney, Mint Coriander Chutney, Kadamba Chutney, Paruppu Thuvayal and Dangar, followed by Pappadam. Three types of desserts will greet you in the end – Kavanarisi Sweet made of black rice, Paal Paniyaram, which resembles Bengal’s very own pithe-puli and Adikumayam, a mix of jaggery and ghee.
Three types of desserts will greet you in the end
Digging deeper into the cuisine
My Kolkata sat down with Sivakami to know more about the thali offerings and the local cuisine of Chettinad. The chef said, “Chettinad is an arid region down south. It used to be part of the Chola Kingdom and is about two hours drive from Trichy or Madurai. The Chettinad cuisine is very special and famous now. People think it’s very spicy, but it is not — it’s flavoursome. The Chettiars used to go to Burma and other places, so the food reflects fusion as well, like Black Rice is incorporated from outside into Chettinad food.”
The chef’s journey so far
The chef plates up
After completing her graduation, Sivakami launched an antique store, called The Chettinad Shop, which is still running. But cooking was always a passion. She said, “Everybody in my house is a foodie and that’s how my interest in food grew and I found my true calling.”
For around two decades, she has been working as a food consultant, home caterer and holds cookery classes at various places. “My inspirations are my mother, my mother-in-law and my grandmother.”
Focus on ingredients and techniques
So what are the ingredients used majorly? “The dishes depend on the season. Say, in April-May, we use ragi a lot. Pepper, Gundu Chilli and Tamarind are very specific to the region. Like today, I just bought the Gundu Chilli, tamarind and my secret masalas from home, but other ingredients are available here.” And what about coconut? “Chettinad food doesn’t have a great influence of coconut like in Keralan food, but it is used in a few dishes and chutneys.”
She further mentioned that there’s no particular technique of cooking “However, we see to it that everything is cooked properly. It’s just the small concerns that matter while cooking. Usually, we use the traditional sil-batta to grind the spices, which gives you the necessary fresh flavours. When you use a mixer, you get the heated version of the ingredients,” she added.
Another look at the thali
Tips for home cooks
As a home chef, what would be her tips to other cooks, we ask. “You need to have the passion for cooking. You first think about your family, their health and plan meals accordingly. Cook and serve with love and passion. That’s the secret.”
Quick-fix summer dishes
Chef Sivakami suggests a quick-fix summer dish and drink to try out this season. “We can make puttu with ragi. It’s just ragi powder mixed with sugar, coconut, ghee, water and then steamed. As for a drink, I would recommend Panakan. Use powdered jaggery and mix it with water. Strain it. Then add lemon juice, ginger, pepper powder and cardamom powder. Your Panakan is ready,” the chef signed off.
You can reserve a seat for the special Chettinad lunch on March 26 from noon – 3 pm at The Salt House. While the vegetarian thali is priced at Rs 1,800 (AI), the non-vegetarian thali comes for Rs 2,200 (AI). To book a table, call 8047092574.