“I can’t wait to visit Kolkata; it’s been two decades,” exclaimed chef Avinash Martins, seated across the table at his restaurant Cavatina in south Goa, around three months ago.
Fast forward three months, and the chef, celebrated for his commitment to local ingredients and sustainable practices, made a fleeting appearance in Kolkata last week. Hosting a pop-up at Park Street restaurant AMPM, Avinash went about town exploring the familiar flavours of the city in his “short and sweet” two-day stay.
Avinash explored the familiar flavours of the city during his stay – including rolls from Kusum
Kolkata holds a special place in his culinary journey, having spent six months training at The Oberoi Grand back in 2004. “For me, Kolkata evokes memories of comfort food. I made sure to relish every moment,” beamed the chef, who was called upon to cook for Sachin Tendulkar’s birthday in April. He was also recently listed under India’s Top 30 chefs 2023, an annual chef-ranking award by Culinary Culture.
His food escapades in Kolkata led him through a medley of experiences – from bingeing on Bengali food at 6 Ballygunge Place to eating at Netaji’s favourite college days lunch stop Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel. He also tried the winter speciality Beef Nihari at UP Bihar, ‘double anda, double mutton roll’ from Kusum Rolls and cooled off with some kulfi falooda at Jai Hind Dhaba.
Avinash’s lunch stop Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel
And yes, there was even a nostalgic visit to Saldanha Bakery, established in 1930 and the only Goan-run bakery in Kolkata – a meaningful experience given Avinash’s Goan heritage. “It was lovely meeting a Goan family in Kolkata, and they left me with their iconic Walnut Cake and Coconut Macaroons,” said Avinash, whose work is being featured on Taste of Tides on Food XP.
“Chef was nearby at New Market and popped in to check out the bakery and meet us. He was so happy to hear my mother Debra speaking Konkani and to learn that we cook traditional Goan dishes at home. The next time we’re in Goa, we’re definitely planning to visit Cavatina,” said Alisha Alexander, the fourth-generation owner of the bakery in Wellesley.
(L-R) Kulfi Falooda, meetha paan and fruit salad from the streets of Kolkata
Chef also threw in a visit to the Royal Calcutta Golf Club and “met one of my old friends from OCLD”.
Has anything changed about the city? “Nothing really. New Market and Park Street look the same. But now, you’ll need a GPS to navigate through the maze of hawkers,” chuckled Avinash, before adding: “Bengalis and Goans? More alike than you’d think: football, music, a seafood obsession, and a knack for a charmingly soft-spoken tongue”.
Until next time, chef!
