While many Kolkatans scout Zakaria Street ahead of Eid every year, few head to sample the little-known food offerings in the Kolkata neighbourhood dubbed ‘mini Lucknow’. Metiabruz, the place from where Kolkata is said to have got its beloved biryani, is situated on the Bichali Ghat of the river Hooghly, where Nawab Wajib Ali Shah first arrived in 1856 from Awadh. This is where he resided and made his second home. Not many are aware that Metiabruz’s Rameshwarpur Road is referred to as Kolkata’s ‘Khau Galli’.
In this neighbourhood, Indrajit Lahiri has shot a food trail for the latest episode of his Foodka series. “In Kolkata, people have been visiting Zakaria Street for many years now. But people don’t know much about Metiabruz, where Nawab Wajid Ali Shah arrived and made it into a mini Lucknow because he missed Awadh dearly. From flying kites to introducing attar, he did everything here to feel at home. The food gully here is also a part of that history and not many foodies have explored it. That’s why we decided to take this food walk,” said Lahiri about the food trail.
Sharing his recommendations with My Kolkata, he picked four of his favourite spots to savour everything from naan and nihari to falooda.
Firdous Restaurant
The popular naan and nihari at Firdous Restaurant
To start, Foodka visited Firdous Restaurant, run by second-generation owner Mohammad Azam Ansari and is quite popular for its nihari in the area. On the suggestion of the owner, he went with a sumptuous plate of nihari, a soft baby naan and a kulcha. Tasting the combination, Lahiri mentioned that Firdous’ nihari “is different from the usual nihari. It has a thick gravy that is the result of slow-cooking. It is to be savoured with a piece of the naan, gently dipped in the gravy.” The shop is also known for its haleem but one has to reach around 6pm during Ramzan to be able to taste it, as it gets over in no time after Iftar.
Run by second-generation owner Mohammad Azam Ansari, Firdous is popular for its nihari in the area
Must try: Nihari, Haleem, Baby Naan, Kulcha, Shahi Tukda
Address: P-263/A, Rameshwarpur Road
Taj Shah Milk Sweets
The Shashi Falooda at Taj Shah Milk Shop is complex, delicious creation
Hunting for a special falooda, Foodka reached Taj Shah Milk Sweets. The landmark for this store is a little shop known simply as ‘Rana Da’s shop’, one of the oldest in the area. “If you are in Metiabruz and looking for this Shahi Falooda, all you have to do is ask any person for Rana Da’s shop, and right opposite to it is Taj Shah Milk Shop, where one will get this complex yet delicious falooda. You cannot resist but sip it directly from the bowl, discarding the small plastic spoon,” said Lahiri, before he went on to do exactly that.
You cannot resist but sip it directly from the bowl, discarding the small plastic spoon, said Lahiri about the falooda
The Shahi Falooda is served in a bowl and it contains soaked sabja (basil) seeds, milk, rabri and rose syrup, making it a truly royal affair.
Must try: Shahi Falooda
Address: P 261, Rameshwarpur Road, Garden Reach
Taj Ajmeri Hotel
The Lucknowi kulcha at Taj Ajmeri Hotel
“Many people say that proper Lucknowi food is not available in the city but coming to this part of the city busts that myth,” said Foodka, who discovered the Taj Ajmeri Hotel, opposite Noori Masjid. The area is full of hustle and bustle during Ramzan and has a couple of shops selling buttered naan, kebabs etc. Lahiri’s pick, the Taj Ajmeri Hotel that offers delectable Lucknowi specialities, like Lucknowi kulcha, sheermal, nihari, naan etc. The naans are baked in a traditional open-clay oven or tandoor and while tasting the soft bread, Foodka’s final verdict was thus: “We usually pair the naan with nihari. But with this one, all you have to do is break a piece of the bread and put it in your mouth. It almost melts instantly.”
The naan is made in a traditional clay tandoor
Must try: Naan and nihari
Address: G7XP+74Q, Metiaburz, Rameshwarpur Road, Garden Reach
Shahi Sweets
The sweet treat Khajla is very similar to a Dhakai kochuri
For the final stop, Foodka was exploring Ramzan special sweets when he discovered something unique. While looking for some Ramzan special sweets at Shahi Sweets beside Teen Wali Masjid, they showed him something called the Khajla. “Every time I think I know everything, I am proved wrong..It [Khajla] is very similar to what we know as Dhakai Kochuri.” Similar to a bakarkhani, this sweet treat — a crispy bowl-shaped bread dipped in sugar syrup and topped with rabri — is usually had during Sehr. This Ramzan-special dish is quite popular in the Bohra community.
Address: H, 24, Garden Reach Rd, Kachi Sarak, Khidirpur
To know more about the culinary experience in the mini Lucknow of Kolkata, watch the full episode on Foodka's YouTube channel.
