“Kolkata ke amar amari lage,” said Bangladeshi fashion designer Faiza Ahmed, who is currently in Kolkata soaking in the festive spirit of the city. She is here to collaborate with homegrown brand Byloom to showcase her collection. During a candid conversation with Byloom’s Bappaditya Biswas, on December 22, at the Byloom Canteen, Faiza shared insights into her journey. The creative force behind the popular label Manas, she has several interesting feathers in her hat. For one, she is also a vegan chef who runs a cosy private dining in Bangladesh. Dedicated to preserving tradition and heirlooms, Faiza also manages a printing press, leveraging her degree in printmaking.
Faiza, whose quotation and calligraphy saris are a huge rage in Bangladesh, is a big fan of Uttam Kumar and Suchitra Sen. She has paid a homage to the matinee idols with the poster of the film, Sagarika. Her first sari of this series had scenes from the songs Abbey Road and Crow by The Beatles. “The sari did not hit the stands because I gifted it to myself,” said Faiza, an ardent Beatles fan herself.
‘Sagarika’ themed sari by Faiza Ahmed
The fashion designer is intrinsically involved in the creative process of her label. From brainstorming with the artisans to being fluent on the make and marketing of the saris, Faiza is always on her toes. She prefers launching her new saris in her own boutique cum restaurant, and while there are many ideas that she works on simultaneously, her favourite remains the one she wore during the event at Byloom Canteen — a red and black sari with lines from Rabindranath Tagore’s collection of letters. “This design has been a bestseller for the last 13 years,” shared Faiza.The blouse is a special one too, with calligraphy on the arms. The pallu of the sari holds a special place in her heart, because it is a part of her mother’s old jamdani sari. “I like to showcase the charm of old things in a new way,” shared Faiza.
Faiza Ahmed in her favourite sari from her own collection
Faiza embarked on the journey of Manas with the aspiration of contributing to the handloom sector. Her saris are distinctive statement pieces, integrating influences from diverse sources such as Bibhuti Bhushan Bandyopadhyay to John Lennon, Pather Panchali to Imagine — where iconic films and music find a place in her creations. Incorporating Bob Marley’s songs into her label’s products reflects her commitment to promoting humanity, mutual love, and advocating for individual rights. Throughout her journey with Manas since 2013, Faiza has earned special accolades, from sending a George Harrison concert-themed sari to the musician’s wife to crafting a sari for Bangladesh Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina.
A scene from Satyajit Ray directed ‘Pather Panchali’ on a handloom sari designed by Faiza
The designer works closely with the artisans of Panchagarh village in Bangladesh. The design and colours come from Faiza herself. Her saris not only pay tribute to noted personalities or popular films and songs, but also traditional heritage motifs and practices. Her saris are handwoven and are mostly vegetable dye, and yesteryear popular motifs like mandir paar find a place with Uttam-Suchitra in her saris. She prefers screen and block prints for her saris. From handling trolls to making a splash, Faiza opening up about her journey was appreciated by psychologist and mental health activist Ratnaboli Ray and social activist Piya Chakraborty, who attended the event. The fashion designer opined, “I call myself a sari activist.”
Ratnaboli Ray and Piya Chakraborty at the event
Making saris a popular and easy to slip into attire among Gen Z is something that Faiza pays attention to. Her approach involves skillfully merging heritage with contemporary styles, showcasing saris paired with shorts and sneakers in fashion shows to captivate the youth. It’s no surprise that she has a Spiderman-inspired sari in the works, where she pays homage to the time-honoured tradition of chal bhanga. The creative concept of Spiderman observing two women breaking rice to make pitha, a culinary heritage shared by both Bangladesh and Bengal, conjures a fascinating mental image. “The new generation is visually oriented,” said Faiza, who aims to popularise sari among them by blending tradition with current trends.
John Lenon’s ‘Imagine’ imprinted on Faiza’s sari
“I am working on saris inspired by Pink Floyd. I am also working on Bangladesh’s well known artist Rokeya Sultana’s artwork, Madonna,” shared Faiza to My Kolkata, when asked about her upcoming launches. She is also featuring the map of Kolkata on saris, expanding on a concept she has previously explored with Bangladesh’s map. The designer holds a profound respect for the intertwined history and culture of West Bengal and Bangladesh. The Kolkata sari serves as her expression of affection for the City of Joy, to which she shares a close bond. In addition to her creative pursuits, Faiza is in the process of writing a book on rare recipes, contributing to the preservation of the culinary heritage of Bangladesh.
Faiza Ahmed’s sari’s are on exhibition at Byloom till December 24.
