The fashion week train has been chugging along since its first stop in Paris, and now it’s making a six-day pitstop in beautiful Milan. After the shows in Paris, New York and London, it’s becoming clear that fashion is entering a new era of pragmatism and wearability — a refreshing change. Italian fashion house Iceberg was the first to kick things off at Milan Fashion Week, setting the tone for the rest of the collections. Sleek separates, lived-in duster coats, and androgynous workwear are just a few of the styles that emerged from the show, offering fashion-forward looks that can actually be worn in everyday life. Each designer put their own unique stamp on the event. Here are a few fashion shows by the global biggies that captured our attention at the ongoing fashion week.
(L-R) Tod’s, Alberta Ferreti, Fendi
Tod’s
Tod’s latest collection was a breathtaking visual feast. Titled The Seven Heavenly Palaces, the collection fused fashion and art in an effort to create a modern wardrobe that could easily transition from day to night. The creative director Walter Chiapponi chose to focus on outerwear, from floorsweeping parkas to cropped bombers, to show the range of his vision. The collection was splashed in warm monotones, with highly functional silhouettes to match. Functional pieces like miniskirts and ribbed knit shirts with leather detailing, were paired with close-toe sling-back shoes and Teddy bear ballet flats in shearling. This was an urban wardrobe that fits in easily with the office. It was an ode to functionality and craftsmanship, a statement that fashion is more than just what we wear, but a reflection of who we are and how we view the world.
Alberta Ferreti
Alberta Ferretti opened her show with a strapless power suit in boardroom gray, setting the tone for a collection that is both glamorous and practical. This season was a refreshing take on traditional suiting. It was the perfect start to a show that featured a preponderance of shearling, cinched at the waist with a sturdy belt and worn over pantsuits with widerimmed hats. Lingerie dressing has been a trend in fashion for some time now, and Ferretti did not disappoint. The last portion of the show was dedicated to sheer black slips in lace, mesh, and jetembellished net. Equally feminine and versatile were a couple of looks that incorporated sheer elements with tailored pieces — an embellished chiffon skirt under a tuxedo dress — for boudoiresque vibes without the full-on naked dressing.
Fendi
Fendi’s latest collection is a masterful combination of classic and modern style. The collection was inspired by the idea of incorporating menswear fabrics and shapes into feminine dressing. The result includes bias-cut pants, double-collared jackets, backless waistcoats with open-shoulder sleeves, and macshaped jackets. Coutureinspired detailing added an extra layer of luxury to the collection. The pressed lingerie applied to cotton shirting and midlayer garments is a nod to haute couture. Similarly, the use of triple-yarned, ribbed knits creates a striking effect. Finally the closing capes on draped satin dresses are a beautiful haute couture touch.
Antonio Marras
Antonio Marras has been a leader in Italian fashion for decades, and his latest collection lived up to expectations. The show began with Marras’s signature pieces — surplus pieces, feather-trimmed knits, dresses inspired by 19th and 20th century intellectuals, embroidery, brocade, tulle, and dark florals. But there were also some new looks, including two dogprint jersey hoodies that echoed a previous dog-portrait print used in silk dresses and some tartans and blood-red oversized suiting that evoked a loose interpretation of English country style. This show was a perfect example of Marras’s ability to take classic styles and update them with modern elements.
Jil Sander
The latest collection from Jil Sander was a masterclass in dichotomy, walking a delicate line between futuristic edge and soft detailing. The first look was restless and arrived with a denim motorcycle jacket, contrasting white sleeves, and embossed branding. This initial offering was paired with coordinating bottoms and vibrant red gloves for a bold and modern aesthetic. Following this were a series of colorful leather looks, demonstrating the collection’s ability to combine hard and soft elements. Summer-ready maxi dresses were tinted with smudged linear ornamentation for an interesting take on a classic wardrobe staple, while down-filled coats and modern boiler suits took inspiration from another universe. Distorted floral graphics were a standout in this collection, as delicate pastel tones enhanced asymmetrical suiting, slouchy evening wear, and poplin dresses. This collection achieved the perfect balance between casual and formal, with the candy and fruit motifs adding a unique twist.
Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani’s Winter/Fall collection, titled The Circus of Life, is a stunning and thoughtprovoking collection that melds joy and irony into a stunning showcase of fashion. Drawing inspiration from circus wardrobe, the collection featured pieces such as bowler hats, culottes, and militaryinspired jackets with asymmetrical buttoning and burnished metal buttons. Eye-catching pieces included a petticoat structure worn as a bustier, faux fur coats, and berets. The collection also featured thigh-high boots that emphasised cropped hemlines, which gave the collection a more sassy side. Accessories such as grosgrain suspenders and bustier belts also reinforced the circus theme.
DIESEL
The big show on Day One was the Diesel x Durex show that took sex positivity to the next level — not only did their invitations come in the form of Durex packs, but the set featured a mountain of 2,00,000 Durex condom boxes. Diesel’s FW23 collection pushed the boundaries with the addition of pin-striped suiting, crystalembellished dresses and double-layered jersey, with numerous garments held together by nothing but a metallic D. Prints feature heavily throughout the collection, with close-ups of smiles and teeth making up skirts, jackets and boob tubes. Models were seen walking the ramp wearing oversized denim distressed clothes, boots and trench coats. Shimmery rhinestone embellished boots gave a high-octane look to the show. Laser-cut skirts with waist accessories were also seen, adding an element of glamour. Chunky footwear gave an edgy and modern look. Additionally, the men walked down the runaway with handbags, which could indicate the beginning of a new trend.
Gucci
The new Gucci Fall/Winter 2023 collection was an ode to the brand’s past, present and future. The first look to hit the runway arrived with a sparkly bang. The model wore a bedazzled bralette with Gucci’s interlocking emblem, silk maxi skirt, and leather gloves with frosted tips that gave a glimpse into the daring glamour that was to come. Following the glamorous opening came a line of relaxed suiting that was truly futuristic, with slashed trousers and tinted visor sunglasses making a strong statement. Faux fur was a key focal point of the collection, with discoloured purples, blues, greens, and pinks adding a touch of whimsy. Fringe silver coats were designed for the dance floor, while jumbosized shoulder fillings took ceremonial outerwear to a new level. Diamond ornaments decorated formal attire and shone under the spotlight, while casual trench coats, striped shirting, and baggy jeans gave a more laid-back vibe. Leather co-ords were also a key element of the show. To top it off, there were also rhinestone-encrusted mesh dresses that allowed a stunning seductive peek into the human form, adding an extra element of drama to the collection.
Iceberg
Iceberg’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection is a testament to their fearless and defiant attitude. The collection, draws inspiration from adrenalinerushing sports. This season sees sportswear and tailoring collide, creating a collection that is equal parts edgy and elegant. Essential black leather is featured throughout, from light trench coats and slouchy bottoms to puffed windbreakers and laceless biker boots. Racing-inspired sets boast geometric designs and embossed looks, while classic suiting is reimagined with an added daring touch. Asymmetrical pockets, tonal neckties, and utility zippers open to reveal the skin. Jumbo-sized fur coats bring a touch of luxury to the collection, while burgundy boiler suits are paired with calf-length flaps for an edgy finish.
Max Mara
Max Mara is one of the most iconic luxury fashion brands in the world. Their latest collection reflected luxury and sophistication.The centerpiece of the collection was the Banyan coat, a loose, dressing gown-shaped garment. It was presented in multiple versions, including beige or caramel brocade, jacquard, and cashmere. The collection also featured a range of stunning redingotes in double-face cashmere. These were seen in swirling parkas and ribbed cashmere cardigans. Max Mara featured traditionally worn britches with unconventional pairings, such as posh bovver boots and leather obi belts or corsets. Volume was also a key element of the collection with coppery brocade bubble skirts, dresses and brilliantly billowing pantsuits. It was clever, refined, and modern, while still maintaining the timelessness and elegance that the brand is known for.
Roberto Cavalli
The Roberto Cavalli brand has always been synonymous with hedonistic vibes, and their latest collection was no exception. The collection oozed with excess, glamour, and an undeniable sexiness. Patchwork leather trimmed in crystals and animalia motifs of many kinds set the vibe for the show. Faux fur adorned the looks, creating an air of opulence. Denim was a major focal point of the collection, with pieces ranging from a pair of bell bottoms so shredded and shaggy they almost looked like fur. Speaking of embellishments, sheer catsuits with feather-trimmed flared legs and open-work crochet and sequinned lace mini skirts also made appearances on the runway. From the ultra glam to the edgy and sexy, the Roberto Cavalli collection was one that overwhelmed.
Moschino
Salvador Dali’s iconic painting, The Persistence of Memory, was the inspiration for the latest collection from Moschino. The painting’s melting clocks provided the starting point for a collection that oozed creativity and eccentricity. The opening of the show featured skirt suits and knit dresses whose lines were rendered drippy and distorted; houndstooth pattern was softened to look almost poured on. Flower prints also oozed down fitted buttonfront dresses, adding a unique twist to the collection. Midway through, the collection switched gears and the drips were replaced by a punkinspired look. Large crystal embellishments and metal spikes were used as motifs, giving the collection an aristocratic edge. The most striking part of the show, however, were the huge headgears placed on the models’ heads. The feathers gave the looks a couture feel, elevating them to a whole new level.
Prada
Prada’s Fall/Winter 2023 showcase at Milan Fashion Week was nothing short of extraordinary. Titled ‘Taking Care’, the collection featured looks that merged traditional tailoring with elegant eveningwear aesthetics. Structured suits were given a modern twist with cocooning volumes, warming padding and accents of leather, suede, and delicate flowers. The collection saw a mix of minimalism and boldness, with bright red and yellow acting in contrast. While the overall look was quite subdued, the addition of the bright colours added a splash of drama, allowing the collection to make a strong statement without being too overwhelming. Intricate lace work and frills were also spotted in few of the ensembles, adding to the delicate nature of the collection. The icing on the cake were the showstoppers — supermodels Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid. Both looked absolutely stunning in the pieces they showcased.