An era of extravagance in art, architecture and design, baroque emerged as a distinct style in 17th and early 18th-century Europe, and was characterised by dramatic silhouettes and elaborate ornamentation. From art and design to music and fashion, the era was marked by emphasising grandeur, emotional intensity, and a sense of movement. In fashion, baroque-inspired designs often feature intricate patterns, rich fabrics and embellishments, reflecting the opulence and theatricality of the time.
Fashion designer Rohan Pariyar’s latest collection taps into this dramatic European era, and to launch the couture collection, he collaborated with Alliance Francaise du Bengale and the French Consulate in Kolkata to host ‘A Baroque Extravagance’ at the Indian Museum, on February 3. While Pariyar presented 30 outfits from the line-up, French consul general in Kolkata, Didier Talpain, conducted the Kolkata Sinfonietta with pieces by Antonio Lucio Vivaldi. The event was held in association with Alliance Francaise du Bengale.
The fashion story: baroque brilliance
Rohan Pariyar’s collection draws inspiration from Versailles’s baroque architecture, with each of the 30 looks named after royal women from Louis XV to Louis XIV’s courts
In 17th and 18th-century France, the court of Louis XIV was the pinnacle of French-baroque style. Rohan took inspiration from the 17th-century king and his Versailles residence to create his new collection of 35 corsets that blend historical design with haute couture. The collection features over 1,000 yards of fabric, including brocade, silk, tulle, and organza, meticulously embroidered by a team of 10 artisans. Motifs, drawn from Versailles’ baroque architecture, feature in these lush corsets, and each of the looks is named after and inspired by royal women from Louis XIV to Louis XV’s courts. For the show, Rohan experimented with different silhouettes inspired by the noblewomen’s gowns — from the voluminous robe á la française or sacques, and the gathered polonaise to the more streamlined trumpet.
Designer Rohan Pariyar (centre) speaks after the show
Speaking about the collection and show, Rohan said, “The collection of 30 looks is ‘Louis XIV’ but as individual looks, they have been inspired by the ladies of the court. Starting with his first love Marie Mancini, and Her Majesty Maria Theresa, to the king’s first official mistress Louise de La Vallière and so on. There are also the ladies of the court from the times of Louis XV and Louis XIV like Madame de Pompadour and Marie Antoinette. Together these ladies and the Duke of Orléans have inspired the collection.”
The music story: Vivaldi vibes
Didier Talpain (right) conducts the performers of the ensemble, including John Halder, Promit Sarkar, Shovan Adhikari, Joseph Rozario, Punyo Halder, Poulami Ghosh, Om Prakash Roy, Dibyokamal Mitra, Somnath Makhal, Subhash Mondal and Sandip Halder
The music of the evening was conducted by Didier Talpain as the Kolkata Sinfonietta performed. Given the theme of the evening, eminent Italian composer, virtuoso violinist, and baroque impresario Antonio Lucio Vivaldi’s pieces were an apt choice. His extensive works include the renowned Four Seasons, along with over 800 concertos and sacred compositions.
The French consul general in Kolkata, who has also been a classical music conductor for a long time, was all praise for the evening. “It was lovely. This is what we people call a crossover event. I have done something similar in the past with Western classical music but it was the first time it was with a fashion show — a fashion show that was connected to France. I didn’t have the time to enjoy the show because I was concentrating on the music, but this is a very rare concept of a show,” he said.
Snapshots from the evening
Swastika Mukherjee
Swastika Mukherjee was present in the audience, looking as lovely as ever. “I was excited, first because the show was happening in the Indian Museum. When we travel abroad a lot of shows like this — which depict art and culture — take place but it doesn’t happen much in our country. So it was good to see such a collaboration. Rohan is a friend and I have seen him slogging for three months, just constantly making corsets and these extravagant outfits. He was very focused and waiting for D-day,” said the Bijoyar Pore actress.
Nicolas Facino (left) and Sayan Bhattacharya
Sayan Bhattacharya, deputy director of the Indian Museum (right) gave out mementos to all participating individuals in the show. Nicolas Facino (left), the director of Alliance Francaise du Bengale, was a collaborating partner. “Organising such events takes months of preparations but we also aim to build cultural bridges with local talents. Baroque art was created in Europe through art and culture but what’s interesting is that we have found some similarities with the era and the Bengali legacy,” said Facino.
Pinky Kenworthy orchestrated the choreography for this diverse cultural event
The Mantosh family — Rebecca, Rapheal, Johanne and John — were in sync with the event’s theme
