Calcutta-based Kommal & Ratul Sood showcased a line of easy and effortless luxe at FDCI India Men’s Weekend presented by Chivas Glassware in association with HSBC. Held at the Aguad Port & Jail Complex, Sinquerim, Goa, over the weekend, the husband-wife designer duo sent out ‘Azura’ on Saturday, on a ramp that jutted into the Arabian Sea. Our favourites were the striped trousers that can rock a black tee or a formal blazer. Party shirts, bejewelled tuxedos, shimmer jackets and flowing ones in monotone with floral embroidery... the collection was a glam one yet with the sophistication of the understated. Mitali Rannorey looked stunning in a suit with a silk corset. The designers made it casual-comfy with sneakers and Keds. We chatted with Ratul and Komal a day later over coffee and sandwiches at a quaint cafe in Goa.
How did you conceptualise the collection?
Komal and Ratul Sood took a bow at FDCI India Men’s Weekend in Goa
Ratul: When we heard resort wear, the thing behind this for us was when you go to a destination resort... it could be for a show or a wedding or a...
Komal: A celebration... like people going for their 50th anniversary celebrations. For every occasion, there is a big celebration, not necessarily a wedding only.
Ratul: We took this resort-wear collection to be something that people can wear when they come or get invited to celebrations in resorts, which means Phuket, Krabi, Bali, Mykonos... we took it a slightly more dressy occasion rather than doing streetwear. We thought of the different kinds of lunches or parties you get invited to when you come to a resort, like a lunch, a sundowner, maybe a formal event and then of course the party at a nightclub. We broke it up into four collections. So, we started with a welcome lunch, moving into sundowner, then we had the gold embroidered tuxedo for celebrations and closed with the afterparties in heavily embroidered jackets and bombers which were more casual but funky.
Komal, what were your inputs like for the collection?
Komal: A lot actually. Of course, Ratul is the creative head and the master of fabrics and I believe in masculine fashion. Dressing to me must be masculine. I was involved in the fabrication, the colours and the various stories that came together. I had to rein in Ratul (laughs) who had so many ideas. So, it was a joint effort.
Ratul: Over the years, I am beginning to respect Komal’s opinion a lot even when it comes to menswear. She is evolving and we are evolving as a team.
Komal: The whole look was luxurious and relaxed.
Ratul: We wanted to do jootis, but we thought it would be too commercial. We needed to outbox it and that’s the reason why we did Keds.
Komal: The idea was to make it less ceremonious and make it easy. For me, the most exciting and difficult collection was the first one, the taupe colours, which is my favourite, but then the various textures and fabrics, in layering them and making them more relaxed in their entire feel, was very interesting. Then we had those deep-neck kurtas and a little bit of shimmer so as not to make it overpowering and bringing it to a masculine space and having Ratul accept it, was challenging. We had earthy colours and threw in an element of peach, which is a big trend for men, right now. The experiment worked.
You showed a couple of womenswear pieces too...
Komal: It was about being androgynous for women, how I would wear it. The space was more like twinning with the man. This was different from what I usually do with more structure, but also more me.
What does a showcase like this do to men’s fashion in India?
Ratul: For us, it’s a big deal to be involved in such a top genre of Indian designers. For us to be invited is a big deal and to be able to make a mark is what I hope to achieve. Also to learn from the first time and come back stronger with a hotter collection, that’s what we aim for. Men are spending so much time to buy good clothes.
Komal: In the last 10 years, the metrosexual man has emerged, thanks to social media, Netflix, the way people are around the world and men are ready to experiment. There’s weekend dressing and so many others that they want to try.
What has it been like working together?
Ratul: It’s great. The kids (sons) aren’t at home any more. One’s in America and one’s in Mussoorie. So, it’s just the two of us. We have a business and we have each other and whatever little things that make us happy, like sports, friends and going out. We gel well.
Komal: Ever since I have been married to him, we have worked together. It’s been 26 years now. I feel we are always problem-solving related to work and left alone, we both want to have fun and so there aren’t any problems (smiles). It’s been a fantastic journey.
So, what is the secret of working a marriage out?
Ratul: Respecting each other’s space.
Komal: If he is happy, that makes me happy. I too like parties, but maybe once every three months...
Ratul: For me, I love people... I love meeting nice and interesting people.