“It felt like home the moment I landed in Kolkata,” said Enrico De Barbieri, the great-nephew of Angelo Firpo, founder of the city’s once iconic Firpo’s restaurant.
It is a homecoming of sorts for De Barbieri. Having grown up hearing stories about his granduncle Angelo and the legendary Firpo’s legacy in the 1920s, he always felt a deep connection with Kolkata – a connection that finally brought him here for the first time in his 58 years. “When I saw the place where Firpo’s was [on Chowringhee], I felt a deep sense of emotion. This may be my first time in Kolkata but it certainly won’t be my last.”
De Barbieri’s visit to Kolkata was primarily for the ongoing Italian Cuisine Week, organised by the Italian Consulate in Kolkata. The consulate organised a gala evening at The Oberoi Grand on November 10, curated by Gormei. Earlier, on November 8, the Consulate and the Kolkata chapter of INTACH held a gathering at the Glenburn Penthouse to rekindle memories of Firpo’s in the city.
(Left) Enrico De Barbieri was felicitated with a Culinary Heritage plaque by INTACH convenor (right) G.M. Kapur
For decades, Firpo’s was the epicentre of Kolkata’s culinary and social scene. Not only was it known for its exquisite table d’hôte menu — always a five-course meal – but equally famous were Firpo’s grand ballrooms, hosting performances by stars like Hollywood’s Merle Oberon and cabaret icon Miss Shefali.
Gopal Biswas, an INTACH member, showcased his Firpo’s collection of vintage photographs, receipts, and posters using a projector. Guests shared their personal memories and family stories about Firpo’s
During his four-day visit, De Barbieri explored Kolkata’s historic culinary sites, including the erstwhile location of Firpo’s [on Chowringhee] and the former site of Peliti’s, another iconic restaurant in the early 20th century. Peliti’s was the first restaurant where Angelo Firpo worked when he arrived in Calcutta from Italy in 1912. In 1917, he opened Firpo’s and later acquired Peliti’s, which is now part of the LIC building at 11, Government Place. Speaking about his great uncle, De Barbieri told My Kolkata, “Angelo Firpo was ahead of his time. He was not only a great businessman but also a marketing genius. He was a generous man who provided jobs to over 500 people. Success is not handed to anyone, it is earned through hard work. This is the legacy that continues to inspire the later generations of our family.”
De Barbieri at the space where Peliti’s was located
It was from this article published in My Kolkata that De Barbieri learned of Firpo’s appearance in the 1967 film Raat aur Din. Inspired by his granduncle’s cultural influence, he introduced Kolkata to the prestigious Premio Paganini, an international violin competition held in Genoa, Italy, in honour of Niccolò Paganini (1782-1840), the renowned Italian violinist, composer, and virtuoso. “Kolkata is the cultural capital of India and I hope to see a resurgence of its glorious past. Introducing the Paganini to this city is my small contribution. Angelo Firpo would have loved to see how the city has transformed and would undoubtedly want it to remain a beacon of cultural revival.”
“We are paying tribute not only to an Italian who once lived in Kolkata, but also to the history of the beautiful city we are all living in,” said Riccardo Dalla Costa, the consul general of Italy in Kolkata, at the gala dinner, a sentiment that resonated through both the events.
Enrico De Barbieri with (right) Riccardo Dalla Costa, Consul General of Italy in Kolkata
GM Kapur, convenor of the West Bengal & Calcutta Regional Chapter of INTACH, emphasised the significance of Firpo’s in Kolkata’s past. “It was a wonderful opportunity to share the city’s history and the story of Firpo’s with Enrico De Barbieri and our guests tonight. Unfortunately, Firpo’s no longer exists, but if it did, it would have been a landmark in all of India.”
The evening on November 8 ended with Italian wine and a scrumptious menu curated by The Glenburn Penthouse
The culinary magic for the gala evening at The Oberoi Grand on November 10 was brought to life by Gormei, the Consulate’s event partner. “Gormei is honoured to collaborate, recreating the essence of Firpo’s and celebrating the joy that emerges when two cultures unite,” summed up Argha Sen, founder of Gormei.
L-R: Consul, consulate of Italy in Kolkata Daniele Panfilo, Sommelier Giulia Biscontin, artist Giovanna Caruso, Consul General of Italy in Kolkata Riccardo Dalla Costa and great-nephew of Angelo Firpo Enrico De Barbieri raising a toast at The Oberoi Grand
Amid these fond recollections, Nayana Gangooly, an entrepreneur, shared a humourous family anecdote of her grandparents, Pronob Nath Tagore and Chitralekha Tagore. She narrated, “One day, my grandparents were dining at Firpo's when my grandfather suddenly realised he had left his dentures at home. The driver was promptly sent back to fetch them, and when the dentures finally arrived, the server presented them on a tray with white gloves, announcing, ‘Sir, your teeth.”
Firpo’s knew how to serve everything on a silver platter… even smiles!
