While work never really stops in the workshops of Kumartuli, the time before Durga Puja is perhaps when this well-known artisans’ gully in Kolkata truly comes to life. As stacks of hay and mounds of clay transform into the goddess, guided by the hands of the artists of the potters’ den, professional and amateur photographers and vloggers scout Kumartuli months before Durga Puja for that perfect shot for the season. Watching it unfold in real time is definitely a treat and the biggest draw of the neighbourhood, but there’s a lot more to explore in Kumartuli as well.
If you’re planning a pre-Pujo visit, here’s My Kolkata’s quick guide for a perfect day in and around Kumartuli.
Start with a sumptuous breakfast
Lalu-Bhulu’s mutton ‘ghugni’ has a loyal fan following Ashim Paul
Before you venture into the alleys, it’s time for some pet pujo. On Kumartuli Ghat, right opposite Kolkata Police Sutanuti Outpost is Lalu-Bhulu’s Tea Shop. The little stall that has been north Kolkata’s favourite go-to spot for its ghugni (chickpea curry) topped with mutton fat. The ghugni with half-boiled or full-boiled duck eggs, a slice or two of buttered bread and tea was exclusively a Sunday special menu for Lalu-Bhulu’s, but popular demand made them extend the menu for the entire weekend so the specials are now available from Friday through Sunday.
On his trip to Kolkata, celebrated chef Sanjeev Kapoor also visited this stall to taste the ghugni. So, if you are visiting Kumartuli over the weekend, a stop at Lalu-Bhulu’s tea shop for ghugni is a must. And if you’re in the mood for something different, or are in the area on a weekday, they also serve grilled sandwiches, burgers, instant noodles, and of course, tea. They also sell Darjeeling tea besides black and milk tea.
Take a photo walk
Artisans putting finishing touches on Durga idols ready to ship Ashim Paul
The highlight of a trip to Kumartuli is, of course, the idol-making workshops and studios. A photo walk through the narrow alleys lined by artists’ workshops to get perfect shots of art in progress is the best way to not only get your precious clicks but also soak in the vibe of the neighbourhood.
While exploring the art that happens here, do remember to be cautious and respectful of the artisans and their space. In recent years, Kumartuli has been pulling in bigger crowds of photo and art enthusiasts, and sometimes that can be disruptive to the work the artists do. Maintain a distance and don’t touch anything, as the delicate work can damage easily. If you engage in a conversation with the idol makers at work, remember to not disturb them. Since most studios here are also the artisans’ home, be respectful of their privacy and always ask for permission.
An artist paints Ganesh and Lakshmi idols in Kumartuli Suvendu Das
In recent times, to manage the crowds of professional and budding photographers, there are three committees that usually charge a nominal fee for photography with cameras, though mobile photography remains free. However, artisans have expressed the challenges of having bigger crowds visit the neighbourhood, especially before Puja. Celebrated idol maker China Pal told My Kolkata that the love that people have shown is incredible, but it can also get overwhelming with larger numbers of visitors. “It gets over-crowded around Mahalaya and becomes impossible to manage. There have been instances when the idols were damaged due to a huge number of photographers pushing each other inside the studios. I would request all to be careful and maintain the sanctity of the place,” she added.
Tea break at The Tram Tea Shop
The Tram Tea Shop Ashim Paul
As you walk into the interiors of Kumartuli, you will find a fascinating tea shop — inside a tram! A tram car has been revamped into a tea shop known as Madan er chaa er dokan, run by the eponymous Madan Pal. The simple tea stall pulls crowds for its unique set up. The bhaanrer cha is surely going to freshen you up, and you can take your pick of biscuits from local bakeries.
Watching the radio man at work
Amit Ranjan Karmakar in his radio shop Ashim Paul
Amit Ranjan Karmakar’s radio repair shop is like a place stuck in time. The ‘Radio man of Kumartuli’, as he is often called, sits in the middle of heaps of vintage radios and boomboxes fixing and fine tuning them in his nondescript shop in an alley of Kumartuli. Karmakar, who is now in his late 60s, also has incredible stories to narrate about vintage radios and his little shop houses some big names like Murphy, Bush, Phillips, Telefunken — pieces brought in by people but never reclaimed. Ahead of Mahalaya, The demand to repair radios shoots up and Karmakar is a busy man. The shop itself is visually appealing and can be photographed with permission.
Get a glimpse of the craft of ‘Durga’r shaaj’
As idols are moulded, the adornments for Durga also take shape in shops in the neighbourhood Ashim Paul
While the idols of the goddess take shape in the studios, the adornments for the idols are made in other shops in the area. Crafted out of thermocol, cardboard, paper, beads, zari and mirrors, the shaaj includes crowns and jewellery as well as backdrops, all with detail. There are also a few shops that make the traditional white shola ornamentation for Durga, known as Dhaak er shaaj.
A walk through history
The heritage home of the Sen family Ashim Paul
Being an old north Kolkata neighbourhood, Kumartuli has a number of heritage buildings. The architecture of these still standing old homes are worth photographing. While some are declared dangerous by the Kolkata Municipal Corporation, and we would not recommend stepping on to the porch, the aesthetics of each will take you to a bygone era. About a hundred years old, these buildings also include landmarks like the homes of popular doctors Kaviraj Bijaya Ratna Sen and Dr. Hem Chandra Sen.
Sunsets and a cuppa by the water
Baundule’s facade has graffiti depicting important Kolkata and Bengal landmarks Ashim Paul
End your day’s adventures by the water, sipping a cup of chai at Kumartuli Ghat. Make your way to Baundule, whose painted facade is difficult to miss. The little shop run by local youngsters sells hot beverages and a variety of snacks and small meals like crispy fried chicken, momos, burgers, sandwiches, and pastas. Get yourself a little something, admire the Bengal-themed graffiti of the shop and find a spot to watch the sun set into the Hooghly as you tuck in.