We were meeting Amit Aggarwal a couple of hours before he sent his ‘Antevorta’ on the ramp at Hyundai India Couture Week 2024, in association with Reliance Brands, an initiative by FDCI, at Taj Palace in Delhi. Dressed in black, a colour he loves, Amit, based in Delhi, looked calm. He later told us he was never anxious about the future. “If I do my job well, what’s on my plate right now, the future is already set,” he smiled.

His ‘Antevorta’ was a job done splendidly. One of our favourite collections, it made us think. The models walked through and around a swirling maze in creations that were pieces of art. The garments had clarity of expression and were executed with the precision of a surgeon that made them look like pieces of sculptures, sexy in all their starkness. The highlight was a series of ‘pre-loved Benarasis’ that Amit reinterpreted.

This was Amit’s sixth year at the annual fashion extravaganza and his brand clocked a dozen years. He decoded the collection for t2.

What does ‘Antevorta’ mean?

‘Antevorta’ is the goddess of future in Roman mythology, but technically, ‘Antevorta’ is supposed to be the goddess that is with you at the time of your birth to define the future that lies ahead of you.

To run back to the basic concept from which stemmed the idea, Amit Aggarwal is built on three broad pillars, which are eternity, evolution and emotion. Eternity is a strong aspect of what we communicate, get inspired by. Honestly, there is one aspect of our life which has been before us, which has emerged with the universe and it will even prevail after human civilisation or any civilisation comes to an end. That’s the concept of time. Time for me is that one eternal concept that really binds our existence together. I started looking at different concepts of time through philosophy, science, math, religion and how I could build different aspects around time. Each part of the collection talks about one aspect of time and we have gone ahead and created an entire story around that concept and built it up into textiles, forms, shapes, the sound, the hair and make-up.

On average, how much time does it take to put together a garment?

I have actually started refraining from answering this question. I thought about it. In couture, it’s always about the man hours. I think, for me, it’s not always just about the amount of handworkmanship or the amount of time that has been given in handworkmanship. Yes, of course, all credit to everyone who does that, there is a lot of labour and sweat and everything that goes into making it and a lot of our pieces are completely embroidered or done on the adda, but I think, it is what we sometimes tend to negate with this question is the mind that’s working on it. There are multiple minds that are working on it even before the germination of an idea or the execution of an idea.

At Amit Aggarwal, the concept is about evolution. I don’t think we look at stopping one idea and starting afresh. I think the narrative for us is holding true to our DNA and how we evolve and push the boundaries of creation and look at our materials in a different light and still build it up into something new, season after season.

What is the role of sketching?

I think the sketch is the initial idea where my hands start to flow. I know what the line quality is looking like, the coordination between the mind and the hand and I think a lot of it is done on the body form or the journey with the material and what it can do finally. That is really the large conversation.

What does it mean for you as a designer to build your own signature and honing it?

At the end of the day, you have to live with your own truth. As a creative individual or as an organisation or as a company, every piece we create, I may not say, it reaches the DNA to a 100 per cent. I think I like that variety. Of course every single piece will have the DNA of the brand, but I feel, if you live that one life, do things that are true to your heart. I really enjoy that. It’s also a lot of struggle to keep pushing it over and over again, but I think when that beautiful object is sitting next to you, where the evening lights are falling on it, it’s a lot of joy.

What has the 12-year journey been like for the brand?

Beautiful. I like the voices that come from far. I think that’s an indelible memory and a significant part of all of us. The past makes you what you are today and gives you the hope for tomorrow. I don’t think I have a single regret. I have enjoyed every minute of it and given the chance, I’d do it all over again.

Who is an Amit Aggarwal bride and groom, today?

I think they are people who are in love with themselves before they found love for each other. We look at people who have an understanding of what makes them feel beautiful and are connected with themselves. Clothing, I feel, can be a part of your celebrations to amplify the feeling and the celebration of yourself, but cannot fill in the void. I think the Amit Aggarwal customer is a strong, opinionated, intelligent, forward-thinking and a progressive person.

Are you writing more and more?

No (laughs), I don’t get the chance to write, but for this collection, there is matter worth 70-100 pages that has been written. The team was saying let’s look at converting this into a short book.

Are you watching anything at the moment?

Right now, it’s been so hectic. I have been reaching home every day for the last three months at 3am. I have dived into some random Spanish rom-com series.

Finally, what does time mean to you as we speak?

To me, now, to have an honest conversation with you. That’s the beauty of time. I am never anxious about the future. If I do my job well, what’s on my plate right now, the future is already set.