In the culinary world, words like fine-dine, hyperlocal and farm-to-table are often used by chefs and their PR machinery, but very rarely does one come across a meal that really embodies what is claimed. Deep in the heart of Maharashtra, nestled at the border of Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary (about 2.5hr by road from Nagpur), is a beautiful eco-luxury resort that has created a unique dining experience that promises the same. Tipai Wildlife Luxuries is home to a tranquil stay and a stunning F&B programme, one of which features their award-winning restaurant — Palaash.

Empowering the women of nearby villages

What makes Palaash unique and deserving of all its praise is that it actually is a fine-dine experience in the wild outdoors that features hyperlocal ingredients and is cooked by the chefs of the region or should I say the village nearby. This entire sustainable modern Indian dining experience is helmed by chef Amninder Sandhu, who is a culinary genius, and has brought a beautiful vision of empowering the women of nearby villages.

“What began as a simple initiative in our central kitchen – where women from neighbouring villages made chapatis, rustic, local chutneys – soon became a personal mission for me,” shares Sandhu. “These women have been feeding their families wholesome meals for generations. I knew they had the skills, they just needed the encouragement and guidance to become full-fledged chefs. I also knew these women would be more comfortable using traditional cooking techniques, which is something I’ve been propagating through my food and restaurants for years. So with Palaash, I trained these women to elevate familiar ingredients and techniques into sophisticated dishes,” she explains.

Tipai employs nearly 80 per cent of its workforce from nearby villages in Tipeshwar and it’s reflective of their commitment to uplifting the people of the region

Today, these women are financially contributing members of their homes and their community. Not only do they help make spectacular seven-course degustation experiences for guests, they also interact with the guests, explaining every course, talking to them about ingredients, and sharing stories.

Prioritising local and home-grown produce

The venture is led by Sandhu, a partner and co-owner at Tipai, along with Keyur Joshi, a visionary and former co-founder at MakeMyTrip. Sandhu draws influence from her childhood in the Northeast, her time spent in Goa (where she currently has another successful restaurant, Bawri) and her interactions with khansamas from royal kitchens across India. While the influence for the menu comes from all over the country, the ingredients which are such an integral part of the experience, extends to prioritising local and home-grown produce. Chef Amninder carries on her tradition of keeping all her kitchens free of refined oils and instead uses homegrown cold-pressed coconut oil, butter, ghee and olive oils. Her love for cooking in gasless kitchens continues and a lot of organically grown ingredients are from Tipai’s kitchen garden as well as nearby organic farms.

With all the accolades and awards, this relatively new restaurant has garnered, the ladies at Palaash are excited for each new guest to sample their food, and have come to realise what they have created and its value

What stands out the most when you enter the restaurant is the warmth of the hospitable ladies from the kitchen, who welcome and seat you. The open kitchen is where you can see them working like a well-rehearsed orchestra with their conductor chef Amninder quietly stepping away from the limelight to let these ladies shine. What struck me was their quiet confidence, tempered with a hint of shyness. Each course is served with a small introduction about the dish, the ingredients used and the story behind it, all explained in Hindi with great surety.

“I do think they are quite proud of themselves — and that was always the larger goal — to empower them to believe in themselves,” says Sandhu.

The Palaash experience 

I’m welcomed with a scarf made from local fabric (a trend which they also incorporate in the server wear and table cloth) and excitedly given an amuse bouche to kick off my dining experience. This is inspired from Nagpur’s oranges and are small iced orange globes which I’m encouraged to eat in one bite — sweet and tangy.

Refreshing sorbets as a palette cleanser — pick from marigold, orange, lemon balm and ambadi

The menu is fresh, seasonal and highlights recipes from the interiors of Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh. I wasn’t sure what to expect but to see Dabeli, a popular Maharashtrian snack, was a pleasant surprise. Of course, unlike its Mumbai pedestrian version, this was an elevated take. The potato filling is encased with studded peanuts or I should say shengdana exterior. My server giggled at my delightful surprise but was very pleased that I was familiar with the dish.

A standout dish for me is their Ambadi with charred pineapple granita and yogurt. Amdadi is a local plant and the leaves are made crisp like crackers served with a smooth whisked yogurt and beautifully charred pineapple granita flakes.

Ambadi with charred pineapple granita and yogurt

Another course features a slow-cooked raan (mutton or lamb leg) which actually sits for hours in their underground pit oven. It’s served on a bed of bhakri made from jowar (simple food one finds in their homes) and accompanied by their fiery lal thecha masala which is signature to Maharashtrian cuisine.

Saoji Bater with Crispy Chicken Skin, Suran and Ber Pickle, and (right) Northeast-inspired pork served in a bamboo log with Indrayani rice

A course of Saoji Bater (quail) is a solid nod to those who enjoy their spice. It’s accompanied by a flakey paratha, charred spring onion and a crisp papad. The highlight of the meal is the Northeast-inspired pork served in a bamboo log with Indrayani rice wrapped in a leaf. The meal ends with a delightful Mahua Kala Jamun with pista ice cream, bite-sized profiteroles, and paan dipped in thandai.

Mahua Kala Jamun with pista ice cream, and (right) paan dipped in thandai

Tipai and the local communities

This entire endeavour has taken nearly eight months of relentless training but it wasn’t like this initially when Sandhu approached the ladies with the idea. “The initial reaction was just bewilderment — they didn’t think their skill of cooking food could make them earn a living. These are some of the first women in their families to have a job, to make a living, to contribute financially to their families,” recalls Sandhu. Their families were for most part supportive. They had seen the impact Tipai had had on the local communities. “Nearly 80 per cent of the staff at Tipai was already from the neighbouring village of Marathwakdi. So when I asked their husbands, mothers, fathers to let their wives, daughters, sisters join me at Tipai, they welcomed this idea with enthusiasm albeit mixed with trepidation,” she smiles.

Ask what the future holds in store for Team Palaash and she lights up, “I have big plans for Palaash and I’m very glad that I have found an incredible partnership in Keyur Joshi, who is a visionary. While Palaash is born at Tipai and will always be its home, Keyur and I also see Palaash and our team of amazing women travelling the world to showcase the might of regional, hyper-local Indian food in a fine-dining format. I have full confidence in this team of women that I’ve worked so closely with over the past 18-20 months that they are ready to take over the world.”

While I personally can’t wait to see the ladies of Palaash take on the world with international pop-ups and bring Ambadi and Dabeli to Amsterdam or Dubai, I look forward to the next seasonal menu they have to offer at their home in Tipai.