The Western Odisha town of Bargarh seems caught in a time warp.

A moustachioed man wearing a crown sits atop a caparisoned elephant, shouting orders. He stops speeding trucks on the national highway and imposes fines on the drivers at will. Government officials in the town pay him court. He is Kansa, the mythological potentate ruling his kingdom with an iron hand.

For 11 days in January every year, Bargarh transforms into Mathura, the kingdom of Kansa. His story is currently being recreated in the 77th edition of the Dhanu Jatra, arguably the world’s largest open-air theatre.

Bargarh becomes the stage where the story of Kansa is enacted over 11 days, culminating in the death of the mythological ruler at the hands of his nephew Krishna.

The main Bargarh municipality area becomes Mathura Nagari, the river Jeera transforms into Yamuna, Ambapalli village becomes Gopapura, and a pond by the side of the Jeera river turns into the fabled Kalindi. A number of stages are erected for the jatra, during which Kansa rules Bargarh.

During the jatra, politicians, ministers and bureaucrats attend his “durbar”, where he issues orders..

This year, the jatra began on January 3. The curtain will fall on this larger-than-life depiction of Kansa’s story, portrayed through folk theatre, on January 13.

Union minister Dharmendra Pradhan recently visited his court and promised to ensure the overall development of not just Bargarh but the entire western Odisha region.

During this jatra, Kansa is reported to have visited the local police station and asked officials what steps were being undertaken to improve the law and order situation in Bargarh.

Kansa also admonished revenue officials at the block for the shortfall in revenues and instructed them to ensure that there was no pilferage.

Bhubaneswar Pradhan, who played the role of Kansa, said: “It is a challenge to live up to the expectation of people and do justice to the character. I will not essay the role from next year as my health no longer permits me to do so.”