Stark, dramatic and beautifully powerful are the pieces of jewellery born out of a collaboration between Ekaya X MISHO. Recycled sterling silver designed with the aesthetics of Gujarat’s silver craft and Ekaya’s Benarasi brocade scraps have come together for this versatile collection, each one strikingly statement-y. t2 caught up with Palak Shah, CEO and founder, Ekaya Banaras and Suhani Parekh, founder and creative director, MISHO, on the making of these “modern heirlooms”.

Was this collection born in the pandemic because we feel upcycling forms the core of the collection?

Palak: Upcycling is the core of the collection but this collection was conceptualised during one of Suhani’s visits to Delhi. I just put up the question because I am all about breaking boundaries. During the pandemic, we were both eager to do something and itching to do something new. I always have this whole line of scrap material lying with me and I wouldn’t know what to do and it would just go to waste. During the pandemic, not only did I create jewellery out of it, but also masks and pocket squares. At this point of time, I am left with no scrap material.

Can you define “modern heirloom” for us?

Palak: I feel we are living in this era now where we want to consume everything we have. Yes, while all the pieces we wear, will last generations, but why not create something that will be within the generation. My sister and I share all the things. All the saris are actually shared between my mom, my sister and me.

Palak Shah Sourced by the correspondent

There is a lot of drama in the pieces, yet they are simple and striking. Tell us about the design process.

Suhani: Thank you! I usually start with a sketch or in this case I started to sculpt the pieces directly in 3D and work intuitively. The forms are inspired by a range of different elements, from modern sculpture to the concentric links and swirling circles made in folk dances. Palak and I went over Ekaya’s fabrics and after a few prototypes and several Zoom calls we had our collection!

Palak: Ekaya is about being simple. The collection is much like Ekaya’s personality. My personality. We are simple, yet statement-y. You make a point.

MISHO is known for its contemporary conceptual jewellery. How did you interpret modern heirloom pieces?

Suhani: Growing up, important moments were often marked by my mother or grandmother giving me a piece of jewellery or a sari from their treasured collections and to me, with time — a sari, a necklace, an earring — these objects came to become the very definition of an heirloom. Although our pieces are contemporary they’re designed to have a timeless feel, which is something I really wanted to incorporate in this collection for Ekaya.

Has the concept of heirloom changed?

Suhani: I wouldn’t say so, I think an heirloom piece is something meaningful, treasured, something that tells a story — a piece that you would cherish and pass on to someone in the future. I believe this idea is very much a part of both MISHO’s and Ekaya’s brand philosophy.

Palak: Heirloom is heirloom. Anything which you can pass from one generation to another and is timeless is an heirloom. Anything sustainable or something we heavily invest in, becomes an heirloom, if we take care of it. A Benarasi kept in tatters cannot become an heirloom.

Tell us about the names and themes.

Suhani: Arka, Inodaya are sunbeams and sunrise in Sanskrit. I like the connection because the pieces are reminiscent of little dangling beams of golden light. Abstract dance movements, rhythmic steps and the swirling colours of the dancers — dance or Natana in Sanskrit inspired a few names and themes as well.

Suhani Parekh

Palak, what were your inputs like?

Palak: My inputs were in terms of what fabrics we use. I feel even for her (Suhani), it was a whole educational process of what Benarasi really is, how much of the motif to show and how to place it. We also had a massive discussion on what kind of pieces to create because we had to keep in mind that they have to be pieces which can be worn across the years. Something which fits with MISHO and Ekaya.

How do you wear your jewellery?

Suhani: It depends on the occasion and my mood. On most days I love a layered look, stacking my bangles and rings and layering my favourite pendants and chains but sometimes I like just one bold statement piece to complement my look.

Palak: I am all about chokers and statement jewellery, but I am not a very jewellery person. Whenever I am wearing a sari, like my sari, there would also be a statement necklace.

What heirloom pieces are a part of your collection?

Suhani: I have a little collection of beautiful silver jewellery that my mother and grandmother have passed on to me. These are more traditional pieces, so although I don’t wear them on an everyday basis, I definitely come back to them for inspiration.

Palak: My dadi had lent me one of her chokers, a very tiny and thin line of polkis and it is so delicate that it is a statement in itself.

Can you name some timeless pieces?

Suhani: I think our collection for Ekaya is full of timeless classics — I particularly love the Arka Drop necklace and the Inodaya statement choker.

Palak: I make sure all the saris I pick up are timeless. Saris in general are timeless. I can change the personality when I want to and how I want to. Of course I love MISHO and what she’s done. I have also worn chokers from Metallurgy and those I have worn with my shirt, saris, blazer, lehnga. Watches are also timeless.

Silver or gold?

Suhani: I love a gold piece. I think the colour really suits our Indian skintone. It’s also very warm, which is something I love. I love silver as well. I grew up with a strong silver tradition, being Gujarati, I think we have some beautiful silver heritage pieces. I love working with silver... it’s not as soft as gold and easier to sculpt. Moreover, it’s far more lightweight, making it easier to create larger, more statement pieces that are still very comfortable to wear through the day!

Can you name a personality who makes a statement with whatever she wears...

Palak: Sonam (Kapoor Ahuja) wears it really well. She was the first celebrity to wear Ekaya. Whatever she wears, she does justice to it.