Happy. Fun. Positive. Feel-good. Shoulder Lab by Aditi Holani’s latest collection is a medley of it all. The Ballygunge girl who has Central Saint Martins and Alexander McQueen on her CV, chatted with t2 on what inspired the ruminative, season-fluid range.
How have you interpreted the concept of rebuilding in REbuild?
REbuild is a narrative-driven collection that brings together 14 illustrious women who have evolved with time. It is a storytelling of human bewilderment and signifies the screeching halt our lives have come to. The collection is conceptualised on the human instinct to pick up the scattered puzzle pieces and interpolate them into something new, to restack and realign them with love! Motifs such as the puzzle pieces and Jenga blocks have been used to display human perplexity concurrent with streamlined thoughts.
The collection is easy breezy...
And, extremely wearable — a ramp-to-racks collection. The silhouettes are relaxed and fuss-free, with the textures doing the talking. All our bestsellers from previous collections have been integrated and redesigned in a new light. Each piece has been given a unique name that resonates well with the silhouette and the theme.
Tell us about the techniques and textiles you have used...
The textiles are from Aagor weaves of the Ant craft in Assam. Headquartered in Chirang district of western Assam, Aagor involves over a hundred women weavers, largely from the Bodo tribe, and holds on to the traditional motifs such as daorai mekhrep or dinkhiya.The collection in its entirety aims for a zero-waste policy, with all the remaining fabric being recycled and utilised for surface texturisation.
How have you personally coped and rebuilt in this phase?
Humans are extremely resilient and constantly rebuilding in whichever phase they are in. The theme stems from my personal life, which has experienced a paradigm shift in perspectives and strategies, and to a great extent from my belief systems over the past few years. In hindsight, rebuilding life and navigating through challenges has been exhilarating and a lot of insights were gathered after I started practising meditation.
Multi-hyphenate personality — Teejay Sidhu features in REbuild Sourced by the correspondent
The label champions minimalism. What has shaped your aesthetics?
My aesthetics have evolved over the years. With each collection, something that has always attracted me is innovative material design, subtlety of elements and interesting interplay of 3D textures. A streak of madness in an ever-classic silhouette has my heart! I am extremely fond of unique wearable patterns — the key being bringing one selling point at a time, while keeping the minimalism intact.
The name is interesting. Is there a story?
‘I cannot ask for a lighter burden but broader shoulders’ (Jewish proverb) Thank you so much. Yes absolutely, there is a thought behind it all. Akin to the detailed research approach of a laboratory, Shoulder Lab is for a woman who puts her shoulder to the wheel. The metaphoric two words allude to pushing a heavy vehicle after thought/exploration.
What was your biggest lesson from Central Saint Martins?
Research, exploration and experimentation — CSM has encouraged me to be invested more in the process and details than just the final outcome. Detailed research — from concept building to mood/colours and material design and finally to illustrations, have been valued a lot more as the final outcome can be worked upon if the process is seamless. CSM has been a major turning point — the multicultural experience taught me to find happiness in diversity and celebrate different perspectives.
You have to tell us about your experience of working with Alexander McQueen...
It was a thrilling experience — there were no timings — we went home just to sleep! It’s a lifelong memory as I was working in the research and sampling team. They are heavily invested in the concept building, for which we took solo field trips to look for inspiration in our surroundings and came back with interesting insights, thoughts and ideas. We created plenty of swatch samples which were then sent to Lee (McQueen) for approval. We also became multitaskers by simultaneously working on streamlining warehouse (supply chain) to concept building, to making samples with the help of seamstresses.
Multi-hyphenate personality — Shruti Seth features in REbuild Sourced by the correspondent
In these seven years, how has the brand evolved?
The brand has certainly evolved over time. When we started out, we were more avant-garde and we gradually understood what a customer is looking for. As a brand we try and keep our signature aesthetic alive in every collection yet fine-tune our product and gradually streamline our systems and processes to meet the ever-changing needs of the market. Over seasons and collections, we have remained experimental while still keeping the garments approachable and yet having an expression of sorts. We hope everyday fashion — casual-chic-at-leisure becomes a way of life .
Who do you design for?
Our muse would be someone who has a distinct voice and a mind of her own. She knows that her individuality is what defines her and yet not entirely rebellious. We design for a fascinating mix of intellectual, meaningful and valiant women.
Do you think this is the best time to flourish with your design aesthetics?
With every crisis, there are new opportunities that enter the market and old business models need tweaking to adapt to the changing needs.
Our aesthetics are practical, wearable and focuses on edgy casuals, which make for a versatile garment that can be worn on multiple occasions. Our separates can be combined with an existing wardrobe too.
What are your dreams for Shoulder Lab?
We are looking to foray into the international buying market and participate in the virtual trade shows worldwide. We are also looking at adding a few verticals to our business, which would give a voice to the Indian artisans. We are currently working on the same in collaboration with NSRCEL and IIM Bangalore.
Can you pick five personalities who are the perfect Shoulder Lab women?
Sourced by the correspondent
Amal Clooney: Courageous, charismatic, environmentalist and extremely witty
Sourced by the correspondent
Ellen DeGeneres: Funny, well-spoken, vibrant and a giver!
Pooja Dhingra: Humble, grounded and a go-getter!
Sourced by the correspondent
Sobhita Dhulipala: Raw, sassy with a streak of madness/feisty
Karuna Ezara Parikh: Strong-headed, interesting, feminine and very attractive in her own way
