Halpern

Michael Halpern celebrated the dancers of the Royal Opera House by having them perform in a film for his showcase. The restrictive yet fluid body movements of ballet were juxtaposed on his designs with orb dresses, exaggerated elements such as the bow, plumed parfait dresses and laced-up grommet dresses, which were showcased by the ballet dancers.

Vivienne Westwood

Titled Save Our Souls, the collection that was presented in the form of a lookbook, was inspired by the brand’s spring/summer 1998 Tied To The Mast collection. The brand drew inspiration from the “first queen of England” and her Europe, while the original collection was inspired by coutourier Redfern of the 1800s. Separates on breezy colours in designs for the modern-day woman made up the looks.

Emilia Wickstead

“Strikingly composed and beautifully shot in CinemaScope, Last Year at Marienbad hypnotically merges chronology to blur the boundaries of reality and fantasy, the past and the present. These themes and juxtapositions are woven into the spring/summer 2022 collection. A melding of old-world and modern proportions is at play,” is how the brand explained the collection. Glamorous, old-world charm and silhouettes fit for a night out in town, albeit possibly at the Royal Albert Hall, were presented by the designer who is a big favourite of the Duchess of Cambridge.

Victoria Beckham

Inspired by a summer sojourn to Europe wearing classic silhouettes, “linen suits, slip dresses and sunsets”, the designer presented a collection in her signature solid colours. It was interesting to note the idea proposed by Beckham of sharing the wardrobe of your partner on holiday with masculine touches in her designs, this season, which could explain the pantsuits too. Sharp tailoring, as usual, accentuated the designs.

Simone Rocha

On the brand’s 10th anniversary, the designer chose to draw inspiration from mother-daughter relationships as she used infantile silhouettes and then exaggerated them. Some of the designs looked deconstructed to a level that is was reminiscent of the deconstruction of life that a new mother goes through. The designer also used this opportunity to look at forms of the female body through the nursing bra and more.

Erdem

The collection was an ode to London and its soul but also celebrated the freedom of travelling again after more than a year of confinement. Inspired by the adventurous Europe tours that women of the 1800s would undertake, one could spot designs such as the leg-of-mutton sleeves and faux corsetted waists. Floral motifs dominated as a way of celebrating the return of the joie de vivre that exudes from travelling.

Nensi Dojaka

The LVMH Prize winner presented her designs as a celebration of “modern femininity”. Her signature style of designs inspired by lingerie that has taken the red carpets by storm already, came down the runway in the colours of spring. Feminine with a touch of risque, the label is quickly making this their style.

Pictures: Getty Images