Satya Paul by Rajesh Pratap Singh was a party of colours. Divided into two parts, the showcase was truly phygital, starting with a film called The Search that was “directed and creatively put together” by Rahul Bose and later merged with the onground show The Master’s Words at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai on October 8, featuring Bose too.

Pratap, who took over as the creative director of Satya Paul last year, paid homage to the legendary designer whom we lost earlier this year and whom Pratap had met years ago during his NIFT days. “Satya Paul is essentially about breaking rules. People now know the brand for printed saris and excellent ties, but a huge amount of experimentation was done by Mr Paul.... It is that part of Satya Paul, still keeping the print and the sari as the core, but we would expand into different areas.... We would keep the core of the bold and the unexpected intact,” Pratap had told us last year.

And, what a fantastic surprise The Master’s Words turned out to be. Unlike Pratap, but also a lot like Pratap in the celebration of his design DNA of minimalism. Easy-breezy silhouettes, smart, chic, fresh with a modern gypsy vibe, the collection was playful and lively. Jackets with bralettes and pants, dresses, draped skirts, tunics, kaftans, coats, jumpsuits, biker’s jackets and, of course, the sari made so cool, were seen on the ramp. Colourful leggings and tights upped the fun quotient. Pratap’s men too wore a lot of colours.

Rahul Bose in black was joined by his beautiful Bulbbul co-star Tripti Dimri in a black lace bodysuit, pants and a tuxedo jacket. Classic Pratap.

Pankaj & Nidhi’s ‘Amalfi’ was inspired by the picturesque Italian town. The pretty line, dominated by pastels, had a touch of romance and luxe. Cropped tops, mini and maxi dresses, flouncy sleeves, silhouettes with trains, organza, chiffon, voile, cutwork laces and jacquards made up the collection. A brunch with your girlfriends or a intimate gathering, the collection with its happy hues made sure it fit in effortlessly.

Abraham & Thakore showed neat and clean designs. The duo used “sheets of discarded PET material” to fashion relaxed silhouettes. While the classic monochromes, an A&T signature, were our favourites, the palette also comprised burgundy, red, wine, coffee and olive. Tunics, pants, wrap skirts, saris and ‘kimono-inspired jackets’ were seen on the ramp with a play of patchwork, hand stitching and appliques . The multiutility of the collection was a major highlight, taking you from work to leisure. And, who said you can’t party in roomy clothes? Two thumbs up for reading our minds and making comfort the hero of the line. The peppy music added to the mood.

Dia Mirza was striking as the showstopper, walking in a black abstract patchwork kaftan with stitch detailing.

Gaurang Shah set his mehfil of Chaand to a languid pace with lovely chandeliers and live soulful music by singer Anup Jalota. He celebrated the jamdani on the FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week ramp. The saris in all their beauty were the centrepieces as much as the ambience. The pastels had a feel of fresh innocence. The models walked barefoot to Chand angadaiyan le raha hai, adding to the earthy charm of the showcase. Taapsee Pannu closed the show as Jalota sang Chaudhvin ka chand. #FeelGood

This piece from Naushad Ali’s ‘Getting out there –— A ride through the dawn’ has such an effortless suave about it. #Love

Star burst

Diana Penty in a Paper Dolls lehnga by Aisha Rao

Mrunal Thakur for JJ Valaya, in a silk-and-organza bridal lehnga

Malaika Arora for Annu’s Creation, in a red lehnga with a tulle dupatta

Soha Ali Khan in a Megha Jain Madaan black gown

Chitrangda Singh in a Shikha and Shristi ‘sea foam green lehnga’, choli and tulle dupatta

Cool frames

Payal Jain’s Earth Song was a colourful medley. Very boho-chic.

How stunning is this frame from Prreeti Jaiin Nainutia’s Nirmooha. The collection was an easy-breezy one.

Jade by Monica & Karishma showcased ‘Bani Thani — Bridal Heirlooms’. This frame captures the earthy-cool vibe so well.

Special mention

Manish Malhotra took a plunge into the world of NFTs or Non-Fungible Tokens, with WazirX NFT Marketplace, at FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week. “I have a 100 rupee note and you have a 100 rupee note and we exchange that… we are still at the same value. (Now), let’s take the example of art. I have a painting and you have one. They can be both valued differently and we simply cannot exchange that. That’s called non-fungible. That’s the whole concept… everything is unique,” explained Nischal Shetty, CEO & Founder WazirX.

Manish said he was “intrigued”. “It’s the new world and… goes back into your journey and takes a lot of thoughts you have narrated earlier, makes it universal. And, immortal in a way. As a personality I love to jump into things and discover,” said Manish.

Pictures: Sandip Das and FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week