If Mini had a chance to look into the Kabuliwala’s jhola, would she find at the bottom some rustic, tribal jewellery, something that he had also brought for her from home?

We don't know what was trendy during Tagore’s time. But a century later, women here are crazy about Afghani Kuchi jewellery with its rough-hewn, glittery, unfinished look.

Tiered danglers, elaborate headpieces with strings of ghungroo that nestle on the forehead, chokers that start at the base of the neck and go down in layers till the chest, armour-like, waistbands with beaded fringes: these go with anything, traditional or ethnic.

Team them with kurtis or saris or wear them with jeans and a crop top. These are nomadic jewellery that were traditionally worn by the tribes of Afghanistan. The jewellery had to be hardy to withstand the extreme temperatures of the harsh land as the women who wore them spent most of their time outdoors. That gives the heavy jewellery a vintage look that is at once unique and edgy.

A display of Afghani jewellery was recently brought to Calcutta by HS Rugs at the Harrington Street Arts Centre. Handmade from metal and silver, the jewellery had touches of colour in the form of beads or glitter and mirror. A collection of chokers, rings, earring, bracelets, hair clips, priced between Rs 700 and Rs 8000, was on show at the exhibition titled ‘Kabuliwalee’.

A few Kuchi dresses were also on display. They had fine needlework that is called sozani work. The floor looked stunning with magnificent carpets.

HS Rugs has been exhibiting their ware from Afghanistan in Indian cities.