For their fourth ‘Proud To Be Indian’ series, heritage rug-makers Obeetee have collaborated with designer duo Shantanu & Nikhil to bring out a limited-edition series divided into three sub-themes — Independence, Regimental Regalia and India-Proud. The designers who are known for their preoccupation with regimental insignia in their designs were apt for the series that was conceived to celebrate the legacy of India. With them, they have brought an infusion of what they call “progressive India” that has translated into this collection.

Shantanu and Nikhil on the making of the collection

What was the inspiration behind the collection and how did you merge it with Obeetee’s aesthetics?

The inspiration behind these exquisite carpets represents an amalgamation of Indian decadence and modern grandeur. It captures memories, nostalgia, pride and valour, woven by the hands of master artisans at Obeetee. The exclusive collection of the ‘Proud to be Indian’ series, for the first time, highlights the narrative of the collection, defining the homecoming of the Indian prince after spending years across the country and the reconciliation with his roots. The collection pays homage to India and is broken into three themes — Independence, Regimental Regalia and India-Proud.

Military regalia has always had an influence on your designs. How did you transform them into the rugs?We always draw inspiration from our perpetual muse — India. Our collection for Obeetee is a storytelling in three. Regimental Regalia derives inspiration from three strong virtues of the Indian Armed Forces — discipline, pride and togetherness and is a crisp salute to everything Nehruvian. Dramatic and heroic reappropriation of male presence, through the female form, is the cornerstone of this collection where feminine/masculine, hard/soft and defend/protect make up the new dialogue. A natural extension to our couture collection, the carpets derive their elements from intangible aspects of pride, valour, honour and respect. Brick textures, maps, battleground stains signifying struggle and the insignia of victory representing a fitting finale, come alive onto the tactile surface.
Independence commences its journey into the world of progressive India with nuances from the rich heritage of India and an eclectic resonance of what India is today. It derives inspiration from the three most luxurious forms of freedom: freedom to choose, freedom to live and freedom to call oneself proud citizens, reaffirming the values of Independence through a canvas of free thoughts and social constructs that converge with signature textures from the bold victory flag patterns, a colour palette of red and navy depicting the power of the army and the undying spirit of freedom and valour through the insignias of celebrations.
The India-Proud story is a tribute that carries forward a rather liberated vintage gusto with significant vibrations of futuristic cultures and heritage. The India story is the brand’s continued portrayal of juxtaposition, where the roots are modern yet cultural, exotic yet familiar, and unassertive yet proud. This collection of handcrafted carpets pays tribute to the age-old techniques of carpet-making that Obeetee has perfected through hundred years of workmanship with signature contemporisation.

As mainly apparel designers, what were the challenges/rewards of this collaboration with Obeetee?

As couturiers, it was a shift from our signature couture symbols like drape and structure into a new world of knots and weaves while designing the intricate carpets. We’ve been creating contemporary couture silhouettes and we think from a 3D perspective with our designs being infused with drapes structure, embroideries and details. There is structure, shape and depth to the cloth, exploring different elements and we keep innovating our design philosophy. But few minutes into the discussion with the Obeetee team, we realised we have to break the stereotypical notion and bring modernity and nostalgia together in this design process, which from a design perspective is a whole different ball game for us. The 2D perspective has to be far more emotional with a storytelling of not just a carpet but of ‘homecoming’ — a tribute to our ‘Proud to be Indian’ series.

Angelique Dhama, CEO, Obeetee, decodes the collection

What was the inspiration behind the collection and how did it merge with Obeetee’s aesthetics?

The very essence of this powerful collaboration brings together contemporary ideas and traditional artistry under one roof. As a brand, we strive to choose designers who have diverse design aesthetics and ways of approaching couture. Sharing a common love and passion for an artistic canvas and an undying passion to expand horizons of the three-dimensional couture world, Obeetee’s ancestral carpet-weaving tradition merged with Shantanu and Nikhil’s signature contemporising to exhibit the folklore behind our exclusive ‘Proud to Be Indian’ collection in the most glorified form.Representing the vision of Indian decadence and modern grandeur, this partnership stems from the core philosophy of blending the vibrancy of vintage India with shades of modern celebratory India. To emphasise carpet weaving as an art, the brand replaces traditional styles with exaggerated neo-drapes, narrative details and powerful dramatic silhouettes. A celebrated revisit to the iconic collection over the years, and why the brand stands for ‘Power, Progressiveness and Pride’ has now taken centre stage, finding its way into the luxurious world of handcrafted carpets.

Take us through the making of this collection. How did it transpire?

The ‘Proud to Be Indian’ collection showcases the classic Indian designs in an artistic rug heritage. Shantanu and Nikhil commenced their initiation into the world of ‘Progressive India’ with shades of cultural heritage and an eclectic resonance of what India is today. While the motif and colour palette used were born out of the powerful stories and sagas of Indian history, the technical know-how of knots and material specifications of yarn and dyes were contributed by Obeetee. The acclaimed couturiers have sketched their signature couture symbols onto the world of knots and weave through a unique Obeetee X Shantanu & Nikhil collaboration.