Perhaps we have all lived a lifetime since February and since the last time we saw fashion capitals Milan and Paris herald in a new season with some of the best style that the world has to offer. But even then, the wind of change had started blowing, riding on the backs of some of the biggest names already opting for closed-door, digital shows. At that point, we only had a mere inkling of the now-notorious coronavirus, which made the best of the fall/winter ’20 fashion weeks in Italy and France, soon turning Europe into the epicentre of Covid-19 in the following few months. But style is not only eternal, it is also resilient, irrepressible and evolutionary. So with buoyant optimism, the spring/summer ’21 showings at both the recently-concluded fashion weeks in Milan and Paris put forth the idea of a promising post-pandemic world — cautious yet fashionable. Big names with a mix of digital and physical, presented to the world their optimistic takes on what our next spring/summer could look like. A pop of colours, prints and patterns, and layers dominated both fashion weeks. While some looked forward to being able to wear evening dresses again like in the form of optimistic puffy sleeves in Moschino, the importance of impeccable tailoring was also accentuated by the likes of Balmain and Givenchy. However, the simplicity of silhouettes in most, be it a classic Giorgio Armani no-fuss dress or a spunky Balenciaga streetwear-meets-high fashion ensemble, was the most clear statement. Sustainability in the form of innovation in fabrics and patchworks of recycled swatches were also a key point. Snapshots:

Milan Fashion Week Versace

Instead of high-brow fashion observers and critics, Donatella Versace remarked how happy she was to be able to make her team sit front-row this year, all admitted after Covid-19 tests. What followed was a collection that was a dream of a normal future with a tad bit of disruption. Taking inspiration from Medusa banished to “Versaceopolis — a utopian settlement created on the seabed and populated by strong and confident men and women”, the collection had bright colours, frills, occasional slit hemlines and the recurring motifs from the seabed. Chic silhouettes ranging from summer jackets to cocktail dresses with the usual Versace “sexy” sealed the deal.

Moschino

Designer Jeremy Scott collaborated with the creator of The Muppets to produce a couture puppet show, showcasing miniature versions of his designs in front of a puppet front row. Moschino’s view of the future is big fashion — think big sleeves, puffy silhouettes, tulle and ruffles. Colours were mostly pastels and solids but the mindset was of a stately evening out, reimagining a fashion fantasy where people step out in style to reclaim the streets.

Fendi

Themed around the reflections of designer Silvia Venturini Fendi during the lockdown with time spent with generations of her family, the socially-distanced runway show saw top models, including Ashley Graham (in picture) walk. Linen, cotton, feathers and quilted fabrics, translucent textures accentuated the softness of the collection.

Valentino

Through the lens of neo-romanticism, Valentino shifted to Milan from Paris this year as he showcased a collection with a wide scope of embracing every woman’s sartorial needs — from bright colours and patterns on big silhouettes to monochromes and shorter, cleaner lines. Safe to say that the design house envisions a Valentino woman who is going to be cautious and minimal yet flamboyant in her style in the post-pandemic world.

Max Mara

Combining inspiration from the winner of the 2013-15 Max Mara Art Prize for Women and her multimedia installation inspired by Italian Renaissance theatre and the general concept of rebirth and renewal, driven by the need for them, the collection was a chic take on streetwear in ochre, umbra, sienna, black and white.

Giorgio Armani

With a documentary that recapitulated the journey of the illustrious design house setting the tone, the collection was an extension of the Armani aesthetics of innovating but sticking to their classic code with clean lines, fluid silhouettes and muted colours. “What emerges is the personality of a woman and a man who are free from aesthetic constraints, careful instead to express themselves through what they wear,” the design house said in their collection note for the fashion show that was broadcasted on television for the first time.

Dolce & Gabbana

The collection titled Patchwork di Sicilia combined a “patchwork” of references from “a city like Palermo, like Catania, like Syracuse, like Agrigento” on ensembles that were a riot of colours and textures — and with some of them also combining new and old recycled swatches.

Paris Fashion Week Louis Vuitton

The Louis Vuitton show closed Paris Fashion Week with a mostly gender-neutral collection held at the historic La Samaritaine building with a mix of a virtual and physical show. Striking looks ranged from a “Vote” tee paired with loose-fitting chino pants and a thick black belt, streetwear-like aesthetics, boxy graphic, expandable jackets and pants, duster coats, minidresses and lapel-less sequinned suits.

Balenciaga

In the form of a music video, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia took viewers on an after-hours trip around Paris with his ready-to-wear collection, set to a cover of Corey Hart’s ’80s hit I Wear My Sunglasses At Night. A fusion of street and sportswear but in high fashion style, the collection is spunky, sustainable and includes oversized sweaters, hoodies and graphic tees — very tongue-in-cheek, albeit fashionably so.

Giambattista Valli

With the “blooming nature of the Mediterranean” and Italy as inspiration, the designer sent out floaty dresses in sorbet shades featuring prints and their trademark tulle in a show that was shot and presented digitally.

Givenchy

First from their new creative director Matthew Williams, this collection that is said to have been designed in two months can probably serve as a precursor of things to come, with their inherent DNA of sharp-tailoring mixed with fun separates and stunning eveningwear.

“You find the pieces of the puzzle for a collection, building it from symbols and signs, but never forgetting the reality of the person who will wear it and bring it to life. The women and men should be powerful and effortless, equal and joyful, a reflection of who they really are — only more so. It’s about finding the humanity in luxury,” said Williams in the collection note.

Schiaparelli

Daniel Roseberry presented a ready-to-wear collection underscoring the redundancy of seasons with essential, staple silhouettes in fabrics that are comfortable to revisit like crepe, suede and rayon, with a lot of it printed with hand-drawn patterns and embellishments. “This moment we’re all sharing will end. But these clothes will last,” said their press note that sums up the thought behind the collection best. But what stood out for me was the elevation of the collection with their accessories — eyeglasses with enamel eyes in the centre, masks that cover nose and mouth, fingertip talons, and even nipple buttons.

Balmain

Olivier Rousteing drew inspiration from the present work-from-home lifestyle and fused it with bold pops of colour, sharp shoulders, cycling shorts, an inclusive model line-up and Swarovski crystals. Rousteing’s collection was his way of showing optimism for our future, which he often publicly credits as the reason why he made it thus far despite of growing up as a “mixed-race, gay orphan”.

Dior

They continued with their boho-chic, kohl-rimmed-eyes look with loose, slouchy shapes, patchwork, paisley and florals, inspired by the Italian avant-garde artist Lucia Marcucci. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has clearly imbibed the relaxed at-home nature of our present reality into her designs.

Chanel

In a Hollywood photocall-inspired collection showcased at their usual fashion week address of the Grand Palais, the design house showed beautiful bold eveningwear and a few casual pieces, including pink denim, bandeaus, their classic tweed staples and plenty of Chanel skirt suits. With the Chanel lettering as the backdrop, a la LA Hollywood style, the collection was meant to be a tribute to their muses over the years who have included the best of cinema.