Ruby Hammer has a radiant charm about her. A beautiful smile, kind twinkling eyes and oh-so-comfortable in her own skin. The London-based ‘global make-up artist’ who has three decades of experience in her kitty and many a coveted assignment, has an MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire). Her Instagram posts are heartfelt with a soul connect. And, even though she cannot read or write Bengali, we claim her as one of our own. Yes, Ruby was born to Bangladeshi parents and loves her dal-bhaat. We wrote to Ruby requesting for a chat and the ever-polite stunner answered our questions over email.
A big hello from Calcutta. Have you ever been to Calcutta?
Hello back ... no never, but I definitely want to.
You were born to Bangladeshi parents. Do you speak Bengali? If yes, then what is your favourite Bengali word and why?
Yes I speak Bengali but cannot read or write it as I was born in Nigeria, then moved to the UK when I was 12. I went home on holidays but never lived there. My favourite Bengali word is ‘khuttar bacha shoor’ .…(Sorry!)
Are you big on Bengali food?
I love dal bhaat, sabji, chicken.… I am not the biggest fish lover, shame as a Bengali.
What was your childhood like? Was it full of Bangaliana?
My childhood was in Africa. So not at all. We had to speak English in school. I speak the Nigerian dialect Hausa and spoke Bengali at home with my family, my parents and two younger brothers.
At what point did you know that make-up was your calling and what about it appealed to you the most? Were your parents supportive of your decision, given that the profession wasn’t really considered a profession when you started?
After I finished my economics degree, I got an opportunity to assist a professional make-up artist during London Fashion Week in 1984.
My parents were very supportive as they saw how passionate I have always been about make-up and beauty and I completed my educational studies up to degree level. I have a BA in economics from City, University of London, so there was no real argument as I had completed my studies and was pursuing my passion. If it didn’t work out I could change direction later.
Are you self-taught?
Yes… I assisted for two years... no formal training.
Did you have a plan in place? How did you go about setting up your career?
No plans at all… just ready to grab any opportunities that came my way. I tested a lot with photographers for no money to learn and kept pushing myself to be better.
What were the initial hiccups?
Just navigating my way around an unknown to me industry and facing competition.
One of your recent Instagram posts talks about racial discrimination. How did you respond to them at a much gentle age?
With reason and logic and sometimes with anger. You do have to stand up for yourself without putting yourself in danger.
Who were your icons?
Iman, Bianca Jagger, Janice Dickinson, Grace Jones, Malala (Yousafzai).
Who are your all-time favourite stars you have worked with?
Tom Hanks... Helen Mirren... Rita Wilson... lots of world-famous top models like Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell... Sonam Kapoor for an Indian magazine… in a 30-year career too many to pick... lots of memories.
Make-up has seen a complete shift in the last two decades. What are the high and low points according to you?
The highs are vegan make-up, cruelty-free make-up, making packaging and other aspects sustainable or recyclable... more information on how to do any kind of make-up on social media.... The lows are there is still no equal opportunities. There are still gaps in inclusivity or diversity not just by race...by sex…by size, age…. We still don’t see a broad and wide reflection of the world as it is. We still only see youth or one kind of beauty. The recent issues with Black Lives Matter simply highlight how far we still need to go.
And, what will never change? What would you say is the essence of make-up?
We as a human race will always be attracted to beauty and youth as a sign of health and being fit and strong. So our interest in making the most of ourselves will never end. Make-up is essentially a tool to help with this … to enhance what we have or to hide or downplay when we are in need of help to present a better facade.
How do you want women to look at make-up or treat make-up?
I think of make-up as a tool to help you with your confidence, creativity and to enhance your features… not just to downplay your perceived negative attributes. People use too much make-up… don’t blend enough. Learn what suits you and your features. Don’t just follow a trend without thinking if it suits you.
We love how positive your Instagram posts are. Happy, calm and ‘Unapologetically’ you. As someone who has been a part of the beauty industry for so long, how do you view this fixation on looks? What do you tell all the women and girls you meet?
A healthy interest is a sign of self-care, but to be obsessed with fighting the ageing process or seeking so-called perfection and focusing only on your negative features and not seeing everyone has something unique in their looks is not what I advocate. I say have a routine in place. Maintain it and enjoy life and your unique looks... this is healthy.
In the wake of the pandemic, how will our relationship with make-up change?
It will be all about hygiene, which will take out the fun of interacting and experimenting, but if it keeps us safe.… No sharing and more sampling as we can’t test everything like before.
What happens to the lipsticks? How do you want women to approach their lipsticks now?
Lipstick will still hold its place. Just not while we wear masks but as soon as it’s safe to take them off... your lips come into view so you must make an effort.
How has your relationship with make-up evolved over the years?
It is simply an ongoing one that deepens and still gets me excited and full of passion... simply love what I do and feel blessed to make a living from my passion and grateful to be considered as successful too in this chosen field.
What is the biggest lesson that the beauty business has taught you?
How united we are and supportive like with the BLM campaign.... Clapping and boosting the NHS in the UK, we all took part to give our carers, doctors and nurses our time to show our appreciation. There were beauty banks to donate products .
What has been your success mantra?
Doing good, feels good!