From Bursa, JJ Valaya has now made the journey to mystical Rumeli in Turkey as the master couturier continues his love affair with the Ottoman Empire with his latest collection. For the man who has championed the cause of maximalism for posterity, couture is his take on slow fashion, with its spirit of timelessness. His recent collection for men and women sees painstaking detailing on luxuriously rich fabrics as he continues to weave magic with his designs. The flamboyant designer tells us more:
What inspired you to make the journey to Rumeli from Bursa?We are ‘royal nomads’ at heart and over the last three decades, have always moved from civilisations and cities of the past, seeking inspiration. The Ottoman Empire was a fascinating realm to tread on and one collection is simply not enough to do justice to the widespread land and its manifestations.
Take us through the design and cultural canvas of Rumeli?
The past is replete with riches and mysteries. We try to create the same magic through our collections. Whilst literal references from our inspiration can be found in the fabrics, motifs and details in the garments, we try and infuse the unique energy of the era through accessories, styling and music in our campaigns and shoots. Our world is visual and putting it into words can often never do proper justice to the visual drama and detail found in our collections. I am truly grateful that I have the liberty to dive into my love for cross-cultural references and be able to create spectacular collections, which find appreciation amongst connoisseurs in India as well as worldwide.
How do you define the phrase ‘royal nomad’ that you identify yourself with?We are royal in the way we think and express — rich fabrics, detail, fine embroideries, handmade fabrics, larger-than-life shows — and yet we are seekers and hence, nomads travelling from civilisation to civilisation and discovering hidden treasures that we interpret into timeless heirlooms. We indeed revel in this contradiction because we find beauty in opposites — the royal and the nomad both coexist within our DNA along with our penchant for art deco.
Do you think the consumption of couture is changing? If so, what is your take on timelessness?
Couture, through its very nature, is one of the finest examples of sustainability. Our work is of quality with a high degree of permanence in the world of the temporary. Luxury is meant to be timeless to a large extent. Today, we feel immense joy and pride when the daughters of our brides from the ’90s come to us to rework and refit their mothers’ clothes on them. We feel, we create museum-quality work and timelessness is a natural gift!
Who is the JJ Valaya muse?
My muse is an individual who is a modern thinker yet with a deep appreciation of the past and a luxury traveller who has learnt to appreciate quality over quantity. Intelligent and independent, she or he cleverly balances tradition with contemporary.
