More often than not, fashion, like all forms of art, draws inspiration from the present and FDCI’s recently concluded Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week (LMIFW) SS’21 was another testimony to that. Virtual and stripped down as is the order of the times, the “phygital” fashion week allowed access to all alike from the comfort of their homes as through collection after collection, designers put forth their reaffirmation of how the show must go down. There seemed to be a consensus on the importance of relevance in these difficult times, which could explain why nature and revival were key leitmotifs in most collections. Silhouettes have been toned down with more focus on easy separates and on wearability in the form of concept saris, toned-down cocktail dresses, lighter ensembles, minimal embellishments and a light palette. Indian craft cultures played a huge role in the form of inspiration as well as paraphernalia for the collections showcased and everyone unanimously seems to have finally set their minds to being more mindful about what they create, in order to facilitate conscious consumption. Styling played an important role as with the absence of the usual razzmatazz of the ramp, designers had to step it up with their virtual presentations. Here’s a compendium of some key collections:

Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna

Designers Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna closed LMIFW with their collection Parallax that saw modern silhouettes for men and women. Metallic intricate embroideries on sharp tailored jackets in royal velvets and textured silks for him, silk organza and meshes for her, colours such as red and black, and fringes made up this glam collection.

Namrata Joshipura

A Namrata Joshipura creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

Contemporary silhouettes combined with modern interpretations of artisanal embellishments saw a dramatic presentation of athleisure in Circle Back. Clean silhouettes, layers and lots of beading within a contemporary format were highlights of this collection.

Rajesh Pratap Singh

A Rajesh Pratap Singh creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

The designer opened LMIFW SS’21 with Fall. ing. 2020 — a contemporary edit with bright pastel hues and an extensive use of hand-block printing techniques. A pop of colours, handloom, glass-cotton weaves from his textile unit in Neemrana and silk satins, along with his signature pintucks and classic whites, were presented through an innovative presentation featuring oxygen cylinders as “O2 Baby” represented his tribute to displaced craftspeople.

Gauri and Nainika

A Gauri & Nainika creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

A summery, sepia-toned presentation saw romantic, spring allure in a floral, flowy collection with crepe dresses in stark colours, berry-coloured hand-painted polka dots and striped printed dresses, dreamy diaphanous floral printed tulle, full-skirted designs and everything that signifies vintage romance.

Neeta Lulla

A Neeta Lulla creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

The designer presented a diffusion range called The She Universe with glimmering sari gowns and pre-stitched saris, flowing skirts with dramatic-sleeved tops — fit for a chic cocktail do or a shaadi. Toned-down practicality and wearability defined the collection.

Gaya

A Gaya creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

Their Palm Leaf collection saw fresh tropical print in vibrant colours teamed with intricate thread and bead embroideries on contemporary silhouettes which included dresses, bombers and track sets, sweatshirts, pyjama sets, robes, kaftans, camisoles and T-shirts. Meanwhile, their Loungy Denims collection saw the classic denim in modern silhouettes with embellishment, patchwork and a loungy vibe.

Nitin Bal Chauhan

A Nitin Bal Chauhan creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

In this collection inspired by the 1919 Jallianwallah Bagh massacre, he showed hints of colonial references fused with military-inspired detailing in the form of Victorian collars and cuffs, exaggerated sleeves combined with their signature 3D embroidery. Featuring a red reminiscent of the British army and softer nudes, grunge textures, artwork by the designer as bold print and a bold sense of styling completed the looks.

Vaishali S

A Vaishali S creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

Weaves in a corded texture juxtaposed with the translucence of Chanderi, Murshidabad silk, Maheswari fabric moulded into sinuous forms featured in the designer’s Rebirth collection. Inspired by nature and the concept of rising again, the collection focused on fluidity with corded designs.

Tarun Tahiliani

A Tarun Tahiliani creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

Inspired by the subtle meenakari work found in Indian jewellery traditions, the collection is for an intimate bridal affair with aquas, shell pinks, pale jades and tea roses, juxtaposed with Jaamevars to go with the designer’s new vision of the “India Modern” bride and groom.

Siddhartha Tytler

A Siddhartha Tytler creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

The label’s signature crystal applique work on cotton, crepes, mesh, silks and suedes, featuring both contemporary and ethnic silhouettes, summed up their collection, Cult.

Suneet Varma

A Suneet Varma creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

Soft hues, colorful prints, and languid silhouettes made up the designer’s leisurely take on couture — deft designs with an element of lightness. Chiffon, georgette and organza on dreamy pastel hues, tunics, saris, a dash of aqua and a bold blue featured in the collection inspired by the harmony of nature.

Varun Bahl

A Varun Bahl creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

Capes, waistcoats, tulip pants and flared trousers in pure silk, organza and satin, using surfacing techniques like 3D floral embroidery, sequin detailing, bugle beads, ruffles, and pleats on blacks, reds, pinks, bottle green, dusty pink and ivory made up the designer’s toned-down couture collection titled Bloom.

Samant Chauhan

A Samant Chauhan creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

With Ode, the designer went back to cold-shoulders and low necklines on silk with metallic embroidery and colours beyond his signature whites and neutrals.

S&N by Shantanu and Nikhil

A S&N by Shantanu and Nikhil creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

For their “bridge-to-luxury” brand S&N, the designer duo presented The Declaration 2034, a utopian concept where “gender fluidity, equality, right to privacy and evolved consciousness become the basic fundamental rights”. In navy blues, off-whites, olives and blacks, the duo used their military style with structured, layered silhouettes and insignias.

Rina Dhaka

A Rina Dhaka creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

“My line titled Book of Courage mirrors the austerity and simplicity with which those who are living on the fringes of society faced the worst crisis of the decade,” said Rina’s press note, summing up her collection conceived to pay homage to the migrant labourers who also form an integral part of the fashion industry in the form of “embroiderers, pattern cutters, fabric sources”. Featuring simple ethnic designs on a pastel colour palette with lots of embroidery, the collection stood out for its simplicity.

Shivan and Narresh

A Shivan & Narresh creation Picture courtesy: FDCI

Swimwear, resortwear, cruisewear, safari and skiwear met their inspiration from techniques used by Gustav Klimt (stippling, dashes and dots delineating the female body), and inspiration of fusing anatomical details of humans, animals and nature in their #Ana10mySeries. Tiered skirts, tops, kaftans and drapes for him and her were some of the looks featured in their collection.