As India celebrates its diamond jubilee of Independence, we time travel through the decades, recreating some of the iconic looks of the top heroines who made the era their own. Taking this memorable ride with us are the Byomkesh Hotyamancha pair of leading ladies, Paoli Dam and Sohini Sarkar. While Paoli brings alive the timeless beauties Suraiya, Waheeda Rehman, Sharmila Tagore and Zeenat Aman, all hand-picked by Aniruddha Chakladar, Sohini is at ease channelling Sridevi, Madhuri Dixit, Kareena Kapoor Khan and Deepika Padukone. An album.

1940s

Paoli is all poise like Suraiya in Anmol Ghadi (1946). (Anarkali: Ekru; choker + neckpiece: Ekru; pearl sita haar + jhapta: Gahanejewellery)

1950s

Paoli brings alive the innocent playfulness of Waheeda Rehman from the famous Jane kya tune kahi from the classic Pyaasa (1957).

1960s

Paoli transforms into Sharmila Tagore from An Evening in Paris (1967). The hair, the eyes, the smile, the charm. #love

(Sari: Priya Gopal Bishoyi; blouse: Warssi Kolkata; jewellery: Gahanejewellery)

1970s

Paoli tries one of Zeenat Aman’s looks from the cult Don (1978).

(Trouser and bustier: Nehha Nhata)

Fashion has evolved through the decades and every decade has its own signature. All the actresses I have portrayed are my favourites. I like doing period films because there is a lot of research work and so you get to know a lot. Waheeda Rehman’s sari looks like cotton in the picture, but then I realised it is chiffon. I really like the overall concept. It can be a simple style statement, like Waheeda Rehman is just wearing a chiffon sari. Sharmila Tagore was a glamour queen though she started from a non-glam space, with Satyajit Ray’s film. Suraiya used to sing too. They are so beautiful and talented in their own way and all so different and they bring something unique to the table. That’s why they are evergreen and that’s why it is difficult to match their standards

Paoli Dam

The difficult part of such shoots is you are dealing with icons. So, you have to be very particular. A lot of sentiments are attached. You cannot play around. This is not something we are creating, but recreating and that is always difficult, but at the same time exciting too — Aniruddha Chakladar, look designer

These are the films and characters I grew up watching. The concept is amazing. The detailing is important in these shoots. We won’t get a chance to style these divas. Waheeda Rehman is among my all-time favourites. Getting a chance to recreate the looks is a wonderful experience. We have tried to do our best and the teamwork has been superb — Anupam Chatterjee, who styled Paoli’s looks

Location courtesy: ITC Royal Bengal

1980s

Sohini recreates Sridevi’s look in this blue chiffon sari from the famous Kate nahin kat te in Mr. India (1987). #sizzle

1990s

One of Madhuri Dixit’s iconic looks from Hum Aapke Hain Koun..! (1994) is this purple sari by Anna Singh. The film is almost synonymous with this Didi tera devar deewana costume. And, after nearly three decades, we still can’t stop crushing on the loaded-with-glamour look.

The shoot is so much fun, but it’s a little intimidating to emulate such stalwarts. Sridevi’s comic timing is legendary, but my personal favourite is Madhuri Dixit. I think Jab We Met is Kareena Kapoor’s best performance. She has a diva appeal. I have never been a fan of anyone, but Deepika’r aami ektu fan. She has balanced it. I really like her personality — Sohini Sarkar

200s

‘Main apni favourite hoon’ says Kareena Kapoor Khan in Jab We Met (2007). And, this long tee-Patiala pants look from the landmark film is still a favourite. Comfort, cool and so chill!

Present Day

Deepika Padukone’s tousled hair and easy glam in Gehraiyaan (2022) is a winner for the effortless chic and DIY X factor. Sohini looks the part too.

Through the decades, there have been huge changes in style and fashion. Recreating iconic characters is always exciting. The details and cuts and colours are exciting to recreate. The difficult part is of course replicating it as accurately as possible — Roy Abhisek, who styled Sohini’s looks

I really enjoy such shoots they entail research work, which is so much fun. When I did movies with Rituparno Ghosh, he taught me how to research looks. I’ll always be thankful to him. I like all the eras. Research work has become easier now due to the Internet revolution. I used hot rollers for the shoot. If you see Madhuri Dixit’s curls, all of it has been created with hot rollers. It has a different finish altogether” — Abhijith Chanda, hair and make-up pro

Location: Bohurupi Santiniketan; 20/12B Graham’s Land, Tollygunge, NSC Bose Road

Pictures: Pabitra Das