To mark 35 years of Ensemble, the iconic multi-designer store has lined up a series of collaborations. ‘Gulah-e-Rang’ by Ensemble x Anjul Bhandari is a part of the celebrations. We spoke to Anjul, known for her chikankari and kamdani work, on putting together the quiet and beautiful ‘bespoke couture collection’ and how much chikan she has in her closet.

‘Gulah-e-Rang’ looks lovely and pristine. Who is an Anjul Bhandari bride and groom?

An Anjul Bhandari bride and groom are people who believe in Indian craft and heritage and prefer investing in heirloom garments that can be passed down for generations. They are understated yet glamorous while opting for a subtle colour palette.

The common notion is if you are a bride, you will be in colours. Is that changing?

Yes, the brides today are far more aware and clear of their choices. She has a fixed vision about her look for the big day, which is in complete sync with the groom’s outfit, the decor and vibe of the function. The modern-day bride is also aware of the garments they are investing in, the Indian craft and weaves and yet are experimental with their looks. Of course there would be brides who still want to be in traditional colours but more and more brides are choosing to opt for subtle tones, different colour palettes, depending on the time of the occasion.

For sundowner celebrations and destination wedding functions the brides are more experimental with subtle tones like mint green, lilac, rose pink and for the big day too they are moving away from the traditional red and opting for colours they resonate with and feel more like themselves in.

What has this decade taught you?

Well, this decade has certainly been a more transformative experience for all designers. Over the years the brides and grooms have become far more aware of what they are investing in. They like to know more about the craft and how the designer is offering a garment that is one of a kind and more of an investment than just another outfit. We as designers too have become more and more conscious towards the environment, supporting Indian culture and heritage and upliftment of the craftsmen.

As the bride and groom today are far more clear on what they want for their special day, we as designers have moved more towards creating a piece of art in sync with their vision and ensuring that we maintain the originality of our craft and yet deliver as per their vision and aesthetic.

Tell us about your relationship with Ensemble...

It is a huge milestone for Ensemble since it has been the pioneer to promote designer clothing and we have a strong association with Ensemble and Tina Tahiliani. Tina is a visionary when it comes to new talent and old talent and she knows what she wants to host in her store. Hence to commemorate their 35th anniversary we believed that this was the perfect moment to celebrate it by showing our support in return by promoting this craft and curating a special collection for the store.

Also, Ensemble is an iconic shopping destination and we think it was the best platform to promote this craft by curating this special couture collection and we also brought in kamdani artisans from Lucknow to educate more people about this craft.

How much chikankari do you have in your wardrobe?

Well, my wardrobe is full of chikankari and I always have something chikan to wear for every occasion. From a simple cotton kurta to the heirloom ektaar saris, there is always something ready when I step out. I also love to mix and match different chikankari outfits to create a new look every time, which is my way to be sustainable.

What is your language of chikankari?

So, the language of chikankari is something where the craft speaks for itself. Chikankari is one thing which speaks its own language from being a common kurta which you are wearing to your office to when you are wearing it for your big day. This is something which actually resonates with your own personality and style. You can dress from a day-to-night look simply by accessorising it or switching the dupatta.

Tell us about your love for other handicrafts...

My love for Indian crafts and weaves is known through my brand and personal style. My mother and mother-in-law owned heirloom pieces which I wear even today and hence my love for handicrafts began at a very young age. Our country has a rich legacy of heritage craft and weaves, which is centuries old but yet very relevant even in today’s time. The patolas, ikats and Benarasis are my personal favourites and I equally love the Parsi embroidery. Today, the world is becoming more aware of India’s rich handlooms and weaves and I take immense pride in helping to preserve Indian craft and offer it to our clients the world over. I encourage more and more people to be more informed about our country’s rich heritage and purchase garments that support in uplifting the craft and keeping the legacy alive.

Let’s guess, white must be your favourite! What do you love about whites?

Yes, after all you can never go wrong with a white chikankari outfit. The craft stands out beautifully on a white fabric, white as we all know, is a pristine colour. It symbolises purity, peace and in some communities the bride wears white ,which is considered to be very auspicious. According to me, white can be worn for a nice summer look for the day and a formal classy look for the night. Even as a designer, a white chikankari when accessorised well or paired with a lovely dupatta makes the look more elegant.

Tell us about your favourite combinations with white...

White is the purest form of colour so it takes all colours beautifully. So, the combination with white can be anything. You can opt from a pastel to a bold colour. This is something which you really don’t need to put your mind into. If it’s white or an ivory, everything will go. These days for me a white and lavender works the best.

Your name means a vital requirement. What do you think fashion needs now the most?

What fashion needs the most is to support the craft and the artists. As a community, whatever you know, whatever your label may be, whatever you may be putting forward as your collection, somewhere we really need to put our artisans first. We need to pick our heritage. We need to show the world where we come from and what we have. So, we really need to put that at the forefront. Also, create pieces which not only support the craft and artisans but also can be passed from one generation to another, thereby promoting sustainability and being more conscious towards our environment. Fast fashion also can be from something which showcases our heritage and craft that we have to offer but as a brand and designer, it’s our responsibility to put our artisans and our craft first.