A board strewn with clothes and embellished with foliage. The logo of Fanush by Roja — model Roja Paromita Dey’s label — is charmingly warm and happy. That’s the idea says Roja. She wants her creations to spread joy. A chat with The Telegraph.

It’s been a year since we shot for the t2 story which featured your designs first, sort of your debut as a designer. You had said it will lead to bigger things and it has...

Yeah! (Laughs) It’s been a year that I had been dreaming. Then my wedding came in between. That was another massive project, also a solo one, which took two months of my life. Designing my own wedding is coming handy now. I had to make clothes for so many people... my sister, my sisters-in-law... half of my family was wearing things which I had made.

Once I came back from my honeymoon, I was very relaxed and Maldives does that to you. It rejuvenates you. My mind was completely uncluttered and I wanted to get busy with Fanush. I didn’t want to get into a shongshar er rhythm. Of course you balance, but I didn’t want to get very comfortable in that space. The lockdown started when I was a week into that project.

The lockdown probably helped you focus better...

It gave me a lot of time to plan it better. Setting up of my workshop was easier because of the ample time I had. I had also booked my tailor and I started work in the pandemic to give him work.

The name is beautiful...

When I finally thought about starting, I went ahead and bought my material and started designing. Suddenly it occurred to me that I don’t even have a name. It is a massive job thinking about a name and is almost like naming your child. You don’t want to go wrong with it. It’s the first thing about your brand that people will notice. I was looking for something unique and Fanush just came to me while I was scrolling Facebook. It was just perfect because I was looking for a happy name. It should bring a smile to your face. That’s exactly how I want my clothes to be. Whoever is buying it should feel like he or she is purchasing a piece of joy.

Roja looks fresh as a daisy in a lavender kimono-inspired jute cotton dress. “Oriental designs complement my form. If you see all my colours, you will say ‘shob kota colour aamai diye dao’. You will fall in love with them,” she laughs. Pictures: Somnath Roy, Hair and make-up: Nabin Das

It has a magical element to it...

Absolutely! I had this cover photo of Tangled where Rapunzel and Flynn are in a boat at a lantern festival and there are thousands of lanterns around them. When I was watching the movie, that scene felt so magical and took me to another world. I was sure about the name and whoever has heard it has complimented the name.

And, you are one-woman army...

In the lockdown, absolutely that. I am the designer, the procurer, the jhharu-pochhawala, tea man....

How is it being an entrepreneur?

I don’t think I have been this happy in the last 10 years. The modelling career was beautiful. I love it and is one of the best decisions of my life. I have learnt so much. There is, however, a constant doubt about this profession. You know it won’t last long and you are dependent on other people to give you work. The uncertainty is massive and these years are precious in everyone’s life. At this stage of my life, I wanted something more stable and reliable. I am not cut out for a 9-5 job. Being my own boss has been the best thing. I have been looking for this forever and I am loving it. Fanush is totally mine. Otar mojatai alada. You can literally work till you drop, but you wouldn’t complain and you are happy when you go to bed.

All the designs are simple and straight, much like your own style…

It is about my aesthetics and also heavily inspired from the designers I have worked with. Most of the fabrics are from the sustainable family… cotton. I don’t believe in fast fashion and I no longer indulge in it. We want to make clothes which will have quality, style, values and it will last longer. I have always styled my clothes in so many different ways that even if I have repeated my clothes, people wouldn’t be able to tell.

“Whenever I have to buy a gift for my father or husband… it breaks my heart that there are so few options. If it is a special occasion, you can splurge, but why don’t we have enough everyday options as well at a better price? That is the main idea behind menswear. I want the men around me to be well-dressed,” laughs Roja. Mohammed Iqbal cuts a handsome picture in a short kurta, printed Nehru jacket and Jodhpuri pants combination. Pictures: Somnath Roy, Hair and make-up: Nabin Das

Who did you sell the first piece to and what was that feeling like?

Dodo (husband, Indraneel Roy, who along with sister Kathakali Roy are Roja’s business partners), came on the first day and picked up four shirts after a quick trial. Otate oi anondo ta nei but the day I got my first order from an outsider on Facebook... I got the dress ready within a day and delivered to her in three days. She sent me a long, heartfelt message praising everything, from the design to the packaging. That was moving. That a complete stranger trusted me and I delivered beyond her expectations, felt so good.

You would like to dress…

Sabyasachi Mukherjee! I would select a kurta pyjama, in the rarest and finest muslin in white and do ivory resham floral embroidery on it myself. It is my dream. I am waiting for the day when Nayanika (Chatterjee) ma’am would wear my clothes. Aparna Sen too... she is so graceful.

Reach Fanush by Roja at…

• instagram.com/
  fanushbyroja
• facebook.com/
  fanushbyroja
• www.fanush.in
  Price range: Rs 1,500-Rs 15,000

The orange jacket with a tinge of pink is a nice functional piece. “Traditional fabrics translated into modern styles look edgy and nice,” says Chitrangada. Rusha Bose

Buy less. Wear more’ is the mantra behind Chitrangada Satarupa’s year-old Candy’d Closet that took off last September. The petite actress who wears many hats, tells The Telegraph what has changed in her as far as fashion goes.

How was Candy’d Closet born?

I am obsessed with clothes from childhood and like different kind of designs, colours, styles and am not brand conscious at all. I like building a collection even though it might just be lying in my closet. Sometimes you might see a design in a film or a magazine which you might not get easily or they might be expensive. So, I started making my own clothes. My mother (film-maker Satarupa Sanyal) would sew us clothes as kids. I thought of starting a brand because I like creating and making an affordable range.

Around the same time I started this brand, I started becoming more aware of sustainability and got to know about the dark story behind fast fashion... cheap labour, the work conditions, a huge amount of water wastage. And, I would just add to it. Getting weavers to weave a sustainable line might be too big a plan for me, but I wanted to create something. Then it occurred to me how about if I upcycle saris and available material.

I shared this with my mother and she immediately gave me a pile of 15-20. With that I launched my first collection which had blouses and crop tops. There were a couple of tops, overlays, dresses. All the pieces are limited edition. I have pushed myself to try silhouettes that I haven’t worn, just to see how it looks.

What all have you worked on so far?

I did a capsule collection in January which was named after three strong protagonists of Tagore... Mrinmoyee, Labonnya, Charu. I also tied up with a pandemic relief fund who were working in the slums of Madh Island. This is my baby step for this big movement that the whole world is coming together for.

Is the present collection wholly fashioned from your mom’s wardrobe?

The orange-pink sari was gifted to me by my friend. She said the colour was too bright for her. So, my friends have been sweet and kind. I plan to launch it right before Pujas.

The silk strappy top and skirt can be worn as separates too. “If no one wants the top, I’ll keep it!” laughs Chitrangada. We love the fit. “My tailor’s name is Hira and he is really my hira,” says Chitrangada. Rusha Bose

What kind of saris do you like?

I am a big fan of cotton saris in general… the Phulia sari. I also love Dhakai and have a huge fascination for white Dhakais. My mother has passed on her love for white saris to me.

Do you want to diversify with Candy’d Closet?

My plan was to involve artisans from Santiniketan, but with the pandemic, plans have gone awry. My mother has been making dolls out of socks and waste products. They are amazing and there is a lot of demand on her Facebook profile. I have told her she has to do the business deal with me because it goes with my profile. I’ll include some of her dolls in my collection in a month or two.

How does it feel being your own boss?

There is no pressure because I am my own boss. I don’t know how great a business person I am yet, but there is no burden to break even. This is my baby, my passion project. So, I want to do it my way. I want this plant to grow at her own speed, just like slow fashion.

This overlay is multipurpose, good to go with your ripped denims as well as kurta-pyjama. Rusha Bose

Your brand is all about upcycling and regeneration. Can you name three personalities who are all about upcycling as far as their profession goes?

Kalki (Koechlin) has redefined the idea of being a popular as well as artistic performer by choosing different kind of roles. She has been loyal to her love for theatre and added more value to the platform. Upcycled means giving more creative value to the already existing resources. Vidya Balan is another personality who has been an inspiration by kicking all the stereotypes and being a flagbearer of the concept ‘create your own genre’. She regenerated herself with her talent, charisma and shone like the brightest star. I’m a big Greta Gerwig fan. I have loved her since the time she was an actor. I had a strong feeling that she will be an interesting film-maker in the future. Well I wasn’t wrong and I cannot help but love her for regenerating herself as an artist and storyteller. I know you said three but I will have to take Phoebe Waller-Bridge’s name. Her work speaks of the regenerating and fantastic personality she is.

Reach Candy’d Closet at:

• @candydcloset on Instagram

Price range: Rs 2,000-Rs 6,000