Though Pankaj Ahuja doesn’t feel like a “radically different designer” or hasn’t found a “brand new spark in creativity” in the pandemic, but he has found something he is not willing to let go. “I found a spark in valuing the things we took for granted,” he told The Telegraph when we called him up for a chat on bringing his autumn/winter line Fleuressence to Elahe in Calcutta. He spoke of the “reset” and the path Pankaj & Nidhi, that turns 15 next year, will be treading hereon.

Rewinding to the year, how do you look back at 2020?

I had just come back from Paris before this whole thing happened. I eased myself back in, but then a few weeks later started to worry and wonder what if I am positive. It was all so new at that time. Then came the lockdown, which took everyone by surprise. The good thing was that we had gone to Paris and shown our collections to the buyers and that cycle of business had gotten done. We couldn’t start work and got in touch once we opened. No one had any idea how it’s going to be, is anyone going to buy even a stitch of clothing ever again because financially it looked like an opposite spectrum of luxury. Clothing and fashion at this level seemed like an absolute non-essential.

Once things opened up in July, it was encouraging to the extent that people started shopping online, whether it was just to feel better or meet one or two people at home at intimate gatherings. That was a bit of a shot in the arm and it wasn’t as disastrous as we had imagined it would be, sitting at our homes during the lockdown. Thank god for our team which showed resilience and came back. Some worked from home. In our kind of business, it is complicated and not entirely possible to work from home. You have to interact with your khaka-maker, embroidery and cutting master. So, we have been here from Day One to lead by example and encourage the team, of course going through bouts of confusion, terror.... Right now, I am coming from a place of great gratitude, humility and considering ourselves hugely fortunate to have held the business together.

We did a show at Lakme Fashion Week virtually and that was quite well-received and gave the team also some direction, focus and energy. Buyers have started buying again for spring/summer’ 21. Domestically, smaller weddings are taking place. So, people are shopping for that.

Has this period changed how you approach design and fashion?

Yes, greatly. There was a certain incessant drive for increasing business, turnover and sales. There was a mad race to do more. It was how humankind had become. We have calmed down a bit. Making tighter and more thought-about collections.

Pankaj Ahuja Sourced by the correspondent

Is this the model you will be following from now on?

The idea is to make every piece count and beautiful. It was like how we used to work when we were in the first three-four-five years of our business. That kind of love and attention to each piece is there by virtue of the availability of time to focus. On a personal front, I started drawing and sketching again, something I had absolutely lost time to do. Also, listening to classical music or be with the kids. You realise the importance of those kinds of things and I don’t want to let that slip away from my hands ever again. Come 4-4.30pm, we rush back home. Let’s hope it remains calm and controlled for the whole world for a few years to come.

You are showcasing Fleuressence in Calcutta...

We had named one of our past collections by the same name about 10 years ago and we thought it would be a nice reset of the idea. It is a new kind of a colour palette, softer. People associate our brand with that freshness. The design was done pre-lockdown, six months in advance, but we started producing it in September/October when we got our work strength back. Each piece was made under a lot of stress, in terms of availability of resources and manpower. So, each piece is precious right now. We have a sentimental relationship with Elahe. They were one of our first buyers when we had started out in 2006. We were overjoyed when they expressed that they are opening in Calcutta. It is a lovely market. We miss Calcutta. I think we have one part of our heart and soul in Calcutta. Even now Calcuttans are buying, which is so encouraging.

This is a collection suited for small cocktails, sangeet, reception and also for brides who want a fresh palette. This is a blend of the modern and the traditional in a soft, westernised, European kind of way. The worked-on skirts with plain blouses are working for us. The puff-sleeved blouses in soft colours of silk organza.... The skirts with tone-on-tone embroidery have a slight metallic sheen to make it a little bit more festive.

The sleeves look lovely...

The puffy sleeves are a hit with us, slightly Edwardian, feminine and romantic. The flounce also gives it a bit of drama.

The saris look pretty too...

We are not so good with saris and are trying. People love the concept and there is a huge demand. Some are pre-stitched and some are not.

So, 2021 will belong to...

We are thinking positive and what we will put out there when it’s February and March. There are some summer weddings. We are not making any grandiose plans because this year taught us to remain in the moment. Thinking three months at a time!