From Talitha Getty’s Zahia, AMPM is now travelling to the rich artistic traditions of Rajasthan for their recent Aarthai collection, which they launched with their “art-i-culate” series. Featuring potter Karuna Reddy, film-maker Guneet Monga, artist Jai Khanna, photographer ad film-maker Ashima and Ruchi Narain, chef Chinu Vaze and multi-disciplinary artist Rhea Gupte, this series tells their stories to postulate the theory of art being an all-encompassing and a continuous process of creation. Here’s what Priyanka Modi, creative director, AMPM, had to say:

“Art-i-culate” and “Aarthai” — starting from the names, how were the series and the collection respectively conceived?

Being a Marwari myself, I’ve experienced Rajasthan in many different ways throughout my life. I have travelled there, lived there, been schooled there, but the one thing that’s remained a constant has been my sense of awe at the sheer width and variation of art, craft, topography and culture that this desert land has to offer.

So many times over nearly two decades, I’ve thought of exploring Rajasthan. And every single time, I was overwhelmed by the number of possibilities it presented and the fact that I’d have to whittle it down to fit into a collection. So I kept pushing it into the future.

For most of us, it took an unforeseen global event to realise that we cannot wait for a perfect time for things to happen; and how out of control we truly are of our own lives.

I had seen Jai Khanna’s work at his solo show some time ago and saw how beautifully he had taken a traditionally busy and colourful art form, and depicted it so minimally, so emotively. That spark of inspiration came right there.

The name for the collection was actually coined by us. It is the culmination of two words — ‘art’ a recurring source of inspiration and ‘athai,’ a Marwari origin word meaning ‘here’.

Aarthai simply means ‘art lies here’. “art-i-culate” is an anthology series where we bring our audience intimate accounts of artists from different disciplines.

It was an extension of my vision to start a lifelong conversation with artists, creators, dreamers and thinkers. It’s my attempt to recognise and understand art, in all forms and all styles. Everyone’s artistic journey is different, the inspiration is different, and the purpose is different.

How did you go about selecting the multi-format artists from various walks of life?

Each creator in “art-i-culate” is someone whose work inspires me and truly reflects the ethos of AMPM. While one of the creators is a passionate potter who approaches her wheel in the most poetic way, another is a photographer who tells complex stories through the simplest of images. The series also features an artist for whom the process of creating a painting is a spiritual journey and a film-maker whose purpose is to create empathy.

For the first time, instead of telling our story we are sharing the stories of these artists and creators, each deeply personal to them, who have freely explored their creative expression through their own unique mediums.

It is one of my greatest joys, to discover art that is expressive and evocative, that beholds a language all of its own. The art is so rich sometimes, that generations of other creators are able to uplift their work and empower themselves.

This series is extremely personal and intimate. In fondly recounting their journeys, these creators give us a glimpse of themselves, a moment in time never seen before.

Every emotion, every movement that you see, articulates their story.

Take us through your mood board and the design details of the collection — the silhouettes, the palette and the techniques used.

For the first time, AMPM’s inspiration comes from the land of majestic palaces, rugged forts, golden sand and a scorching sun. We bring Rajasthan to life through the panoramic lens of Aarthai. Our offering takes cues from the vibrant artistic heritage of the royal state. The key inspiration story followed throughout the season is the art of Pichwai.

Having deep roots in Rajasthan, I had seen many Pichwais, but when I saw Khanna’s rendition of Shrinathji, I was completely transfixed. Just taking the basic guard rails of Pichwai, he seemed to have created his own language, one that was free of rules and restrictions and full of detail and devotion. The uniqueness of his artistry, his compositions and minimalistic expression, especially significant when depicting an Indian god, completely inspired me to design our spring/summer ’21 collection.

Pichwai is characterised by its beautiful motifs from mythological tales, a traditional Indian art form that depicts tales from Lord Krishna’s life.

In the freshest yet unconventional summer palette, the traditionally busy art form is reimagined in a unique minimal rendition. Ornamentation is key, lending a three dimensional aspect to the artistry drawn on cloth.

Through Aarthai, art and architecture transcend into a modern, more abstract realisation. The strokes are free and intuitive but strike a nuanced balance, forming a very contemporary portrait of Rajasthan.

We have focused on timeless silhouettes like shirts, tunic sets, blouses, shirt dresses, relaxed capes and throws, etc. Cowled jackets and tunics play canvas to dreamy prints. Our signature pre-draped sari is heightened by intricate surface design. Each motif is painstakingly hand drawn and stylised to have a life of its own. The playful monkeys, lush banana leaves and art inspired from patterned floors and temple facades are drawn in hues of pearl ivory, purple, tan and celeste blue.

Soft Chanderis and sumptuous silks are punctuated by silk satin embroidery, applique dori work and gold faux leather embossing. We heighten all this luxury by adding gold-plated coiled brooches, plush buttons and beautiful branch fasteners.

Yet another massive hit to business with 2021. How do you see the fashion industry coping and what’s next?

As we all know, the severity of the pandemic has increased multifold in India in the past month. With that, we’re seeing tragedy strike near and far, anywhere and anytime. In this one profound moment, every single one of us has to do more than just protect ourselves and our own.

In the last few weeks what has become extremely clear is that vaccinating everyone is the only real way out of this. That is our best chance to attack the problem at its root and the faster we do it the better.

So we at AMPM have decided that 30 per cent of all our sales will go towards helping people get free and easy access to a vaccine.

To every organisation and individual out there, my sincerest request is to contribute. As a starter tip, do a quick research on the many relief organisations doing relentless good work and donate to whichever you deem fit. Encourage everyone around you, including your customers, to contribute.

Be it big or small, every bit counts.

Potter Karuna Reddy

Artist Jai Khanna

Filmmaker Guneet Monga

Pictures: Courtesy of AMPM