As we stepped into her soon-to-be-ready Portuguese bungalow in Saligao, Maria Goretti welcomed us warmly, offering a glimpse of the house she’s passionately restoring in this charming little village with paddy fields and narrow scenic lanes. “I’m in full-on renovation mode,” she grinned, “so no photo-worthy attire today!”
The bubbly Maria needs no introduction. We’ve seen her as a Cordon Bleu chef, author, poet, actor, former MTV VJ, TV anchor, a mother of two and wife to actor Arshad Warsi.
Recently, she’s donned yet another hat – that of an interior designer; her personal touch evident in the intricate carvings of the furniture, the painted glass on the old arch windows, and the unique room tiles. But it is the kitchen studio that she shows off most proudly in this new home, and given her passion for cooking, that comes as no surprise. At present, the house serves as a retreat for her husband, their kids, and parents. “A holiday escape, with no set plans for what’s to come,” she shared, as she proudly showcases the master bedroom overlooking vast stretches of serene paddy fields.
We sat down for a chat. Snippets…
‘It’s a retreat spot. It’s being built as a holiday home without any fixed plans for the future,’ Maria said about her Saligao home Riva Bubber; make-up by Neetu Ahluwalia
My Kolkata: The house looks beautiful. You’ve put in so much effort to make it special. Are you planning to shift base to Goa?
Maria Goretti: Thank you! I’m contemplating moving here once my daughter takes off for her studies. For now, it’s a retreat spot. It’s being built as a holiday home without any fixed plans for the future.
Initially, I wasn’t keen on having a home in Goa; I preferred the convenience of hotel living with room service on call. (Pretends to speak on the phone) ‘Hey, can you please get my shirt ironed? or ‘Listen, my bathroom is a little bit dirty’. So I wanted that, you know (laughs)! But when we started house hunting, we stumbled upon this charming place in Saligao. Although there were many other houses to see, I told Warsi, ‘If you ever decide to buy, it should be this one.’
Though it means a lot more work, I’m keen on preserving its unique features, like the thick walls. I’ve put cement tiles in each room that have been designed by me, except this one (gesturing to the master living room). It’s haphazardly put together because Warsi wanted to live in it during his month-long break. So, we hastily set up this room with a bed and desk. It’s my first time living here, surrounded by workers during the day and chasing mosquitoes in the evenings!
What was it like growing up in an East Indian home?
My parents are East Indians, who come from erstwhile Bombay. East Indians were traditionally landowners, farmers and fisher folk. Our cultural practices resemble Maharashtrians’. We became Christians generations ago, and my mom’s years in Austria added diversity to our food, throwing in schnitzel with simple fish curry. She made this dish called Chow that I always think of a lot. It was noodles with loads of veggies, and then there would be eggs, sausages, bacon, butter, and cheese. I grew up eating this and that – some dishes from her time in Austria and lots of East Indian meals, thanks to my grandma staying with us.
Your Instagram series ‘When I Have my Cafe’ features some amazing recipes. Any plans to open a cafe soon?
I’ve penned down the entire menu for a cafe, but the timing is uncertain. I’m searching for an investor to manage the business side while I focus on the food. Someone who can tell me, ‘So sorry but no asparagus on the menu because it’s too damn expensive’, and I’ll be like, ‘No you’re crazy, asparagus is so good!’ I almost opened a place a while back, but realised the need for a solid foundation. Until I have that, this will stay an Instagram series.
When that happens, what will you name your cafe?
Cafe Goretti, of course!
Who helps create your looks in your ‘Cook The Book’ Instagram series?
Well, that’s all me! After the pandemic, I realised I had a ton of clothes I never wore, so I gave them away. Then, when I started cooking for the series, I found I had nothing ‘in-between’ my PJs and going-out clothes. So, I dug out my saris, paired them with my stuff, added some jewellery, and voila! I ended up wearing 90 per cent of my saris. I prefer my hair up when I’m cooking, so it’s usually braided or tied up on filming days. Styling myself has always been my thing. I wanted to be a fashion designer when I was younger, but it was very difficult for people to pay me, and then I got into television and forgot about it.
Maria curates her own looks for her ‘Cook The Book’ Instagram series
I feel you don’t need designer clothes to make a statement. Why is that important? Why can’t you just enjoy what you have and enjoy what you wear? Most of my saris, bought from places like Byloom in Kolkata, are simple cotton ones, easy to wear in Bombay’s climate. They’re not expensive, probably not more than Rs 2,000, but how does that matter, right?
When were you last in Kolkata?
Just before the pandemic hit, in February 2020, I went there to receive an award and took an extra day to shop and eat around. I visited Kewpie’s, enjoyed Chinese food in Tangra, and I had to visit New Market, of course!
Do you have a special recipe with an interesting story?
We had a pet duck when I was little. He was a happy ducky and one Easter, he mysteriously vanished. We were sitting at the dining table, and everyone said, ‘Oh look, there’s Duck Moile!’ I think I had this WTF moment and since then, I’ve never been able to cook Duck Moile. Even though traditional East Indians make the dish, I just cannot! So in my book, I have a Mutton Moile instead. [Watch the recipe on Maria’s YouTube channel here.]
Maria’s Mutton Moile
Who are your friends in Goa?
I’ve got quite a few from Bombay who keep coming up and down. There is Lisa, a chef, Sandy (Sandhya Mridul) who has a home here, Banita, another chef with a Pune restaurant and a home here, and my friend Nikhil Chinapa who has a home in Nerul. Also, Jerome Marrell, the partner of the late Wendell Rodricks.
What do you usually have for Sunday lunch with your children Zeke and Zene, and hubby Arshad?
I’m a big fan of biryani on Sundays. If Warsi is home and in the mood, he makes the most awesome Raan Biryani. If it’s just me and my parents, we might have fish. With the kids around, maybe we’ll go for lamb. For some reason, Fridays have been Burger Night. When everyone’s home, I love making hummus, babaganoush, kebabs, homemade pita, some sauces, and doing barbecues. In our line of work, there’s no concept of days, so when everyone’s at home, it’s a celebration!
What are your top three dining spots in Goa?
Breadfruit at Bhatti Village Karo Christine Kumar
Bhatti Village is bloody damn good. Their breadfruit and dal rice are exceptional. Then there’s Mr. Gelato or their home store Cream Choc in Anjuna – I could eat there anytime. As for the third spot, I have quite a few favourites: Second House for their burger, Hosa for crab, Bawri for biryani, Izumi for poke bowl, Avo’s Kitchen for thali, Kokum Curry in Candolim for Saraswat Thali, and Burger Factory. Oh, and I also enjoy dining at my friend Lisa’s house. Cavatina by Avinash Martins is on my to-visit list, and once this housework is done, I’m treating myself there!
I also love going to the Mapusa Market on Fridays – it’s buzzing and packed with fantastic food. Despite being a non-vegetarian, I love fresh veggies.
Quick Bites
Your secret for great skin?
I think it’s apricot oil. I got some hand-pressed oil in old rum bottles from Ladakh a year ago. I use it religiously, both in the morning and at night. I love it.
Dancing – still a passion?
I love dancing but haven’t done much after MTV. Now, I dance at parties and that’s the extent of it!
About your poetry book?
To the Moon and Back released this year; it’s about life, love and everything in-between.
If you were a herb, you’d be?
Parsley or rosemary – I love how it transforms any dish. But if I were a spice, it’d be nutmeg because nutmeg is something that you need very little of to enhance anything, and it works its magic.
Currently addicted to?
Breadfruit! I got introduced to it about four months ago, and I’m obsessed with it
Meal for your favourite fictional character?
Peter Pan! A bowl of forest mushrooms, tomato sauce, homemade sourdough bread, and pesto, served by a babbling brook.