If my life were a dish, I’d be a Kolkata biryani: Asma Khan

It’s been five months since the critically acclaimed Darjeeling Express found its new home in Kingly Court, London. “It’s a beautiful space,” says Asma, “A place that is nostalgic, and reminds people of their grandmother’s home — we get that a lot.” The restaurant is also bigger and more spacious, which means more people can book tables at ease without a waiting period. Fresh from a visit by Bridgerton star Simone Ashley, we tossed some fun questions at Asma. Here’s her take!

My Kolkata: If your life were a dish, what would it be called, and what ingredients would be in it?

Asma Khan: I’d go with Kolkata Biryani! Biryani, with its layers and cultural significance, is typically served during large gatherings or special celebrations like Eid or Durga Puja in Kolkata. The most important ingredient is the potato. It is considered to be an ordinary, mamooli ingredient but the way it can absorb the flavours, juices and saffron is amazing. I’d like to be that person who similarly absorbs everything around them.

A recent ‘aha’ moment?

During a recent trip to Kerala, I experienced a significant revelation. I had always been sceptical about making dietary changes and prioritising my health. People who championed health and wellness had never quite won me over. However, during a much-needed two-week break, I decided to unplug. As the founder of a restaurant, you never rest. Yet, for those two weeks, I disconnected from my hectic routine.

I spent quality time with my father, gazing at the sea. Nature rewarded us with the delightful presence of a peacock and a mongoose. These moments of quiet allowed me to pause and absorb. It was during this time that I had my “aha” moment — the realisation that, like the potato in biryani, I too needed to absorb the flavours of life, especially because, as women, we often kindle the fire within us to provide warmth for others.

What’s the most unusual or surprising food combination that you’ve recently tried and loved?

I have recently tried paratha with Nutella, and I think it is a brilliant combination! I hate things like chocolate samosa, etc, but somehow this just won me over.

If you could invite three famous personalities (dead or alive) to a dinner party at Darjeeling Express, who would they be, and what would be the theme of the evening?

I would invite Barack Obama, Nelson Mandela and Jhansi Ki Rani. The theme would be: how do you break the mould?

Obama stood up for equality.

Nelson is an inspiration, and people don’t talk about him enough.

Lakshmibai is special, she picked up her sword and fought for her people, and sometimes as a woman, you have to do that!

What is your opinion on fusion food, and is there a particular fusion cuisine or dish that stands out for you?

I’m not into fusion food at all. But if I had to pick one thing and place that works for me, it’s the Indo-Chinese food in Kolkata’s Tangra (Chinatown).

What are the most popular dishes at Darjeeling Express?

Kosha Mangsho and Chingri Malai Curry! Both are Bengali-style and every Calcuttan who has visited us tells us how it tastes bang on.

This or That with Asma Khan

Cooking for a large family gathering OR an intimate dinner party?

• Intimate dinner party

Spicy curry OR mild curry with complex flavours?

• Mild curry with complex flavours

Basmati rice OR jasmine rice for your Indian dishes?

• Basmati rice

Closer to your heart: Asma’s Indian Kitchen OR Ammu?

• Ammu. If my life were to stop now, I would look back and think that by writing Ammu, I have fulfilled the meaning of my life.

Traditional Indian thali OR a modern tasting menu?

• Traditional Indian thali

Biryani in Kolkata OR Darjeeling Express, London?

• (Laughs) Darjeeling Express, because I cook it myself from scratch

In Kolkata, street food stalls OR fine dining restaurants? Name two.

• Street food stalls. The phuchkas from the phuchkawallah outside Kookie Jar on Loudon Street, and Victoria Vada (moong dal vada) outside Vardaan Market.